Has anyone tried this 3shape addon? Digital Press Design Wax Tree for IPS e.max Press- from ivoclar

[MoosetheGoose]

heres the link, wondering if anyones had luck 3d printing their emax in a burnout material. I was looking at the fotodent material for carbon and using the extra fine slice settings to get an accurate print even around hard to print areas like the margins.

 

[npdynamite]

heres the link, wondering if anyones had luck 3d printing their emax in a burnout material. I was looking at the fotodent material for carbon and using the extra fine slice settings to get an accurate print even around hard to print areas like the margins.

I've been interested in this myself, but have never tried it. I haven't seen a print result that would give me confidence to go straight to press. I would ask for samples of individual units to check margins and fit before you commit to anything. Also, are you using a Carbon already? I have worked with Carbons and the amount of support material needed in my opinion, makes them worthless for printing crowns of any kind period.

 

[MoosetheGoose]

I've been interested in this myself, but have never tried it. I haven't seen a print result that would give me confidence to go straight to press. I would ask for samples of individual units to check margins and fit before you commit to anything. Also, are you using a Carbon already? I have worked with Carbons and the amount of support material needed in my opinion, makes them worthless for printing crowns of any kind period.

why would you need support material on this? I thought with carbon the only benefit of the support material is getting areas that appear in the middle of a print, like on a scan where you have a large amout of palatal info and the palate dips down without being connected to other areas of the model.

With this since everything is connected on an up and down line id imagine you can just throw it in as is without any support material

 

[KingGhidorah]

Wouldn’t this be really easy to do on blender. All you need is the size of the emax ring base opening, the size of the top part, put those two together, save it as an stl, then just before you finish each emax case just add on a sprue attachment in the attachments options, then line it up in blender with the pre-made stl emax ring base. Right?

 

[npdynamite]

why would you need support material on this? I thought with carbon the only benefit of the support material is getting areas that appear in the middle of a print, like on a scan where you have a large amout of palatal info and the palate dips down without being connected to other areas of the model.

With this since everything is connected on an up and down line id imagine you can just throw it in as is without any support material

With a Carbon absolutely every surface must have vertical support, otherwise your print will warp. It is very finicky. They print great once you understand how to do the supports, but you have to by very thorough with supports. I have a good deal of experience printing on Carbon printers. I never tried printing restorations, but I also never believed it would be worth the effort. I can guarantee that without support material one of those will absolutely not print, every restoration and the probably the sprue itself would need support fencing that would have to be removed after the print.

 

[npdynamite]

Wouldn’t this be really easy to do on blender. All you need is the size of the emax ring base opening, the size of the top part, put those two together, save it as an stl, then just before you finish each emax case just add on a sprue attachment in the attachments options, then line it up in blender with the pre-made stl emax ring base. Right?

In theory it could be done, you would want to build everything in something else like FreeCAD because Blender doesn't really like dealing with exact measurements in my experience. The thing that you would not be getting though is that I believe the deal in 3Shape is that is is going to have guides to idealize everything and if you are using multi shade ingots I believe it will show you where the transition will actually end up so that you can increase predictability.

 

[Car 54]

Design, mill out of wax, and press, still works for me, even if I have to manually sprue everything to the base by hand. The results are excellent and predictable.

 

[npdynamite]

Design, mill out of wax, and press, still works for me, even if I have to manually sprue everything to the base by hand. The results are excellent and predictable.

I agree, I still believe this is the way to go

 

[Brett Hansen CDT]

We've always had issues with the fits on milled wax veneers. I've come to find out its probably due to to the drill compensation. I have started printing our veneers in our Asiga 4K. I wouldn't say I've ironed out all the kinks with getting the patterns to print perfectly everytime with the required supports, but when they come out right, they fit awesome. Also, the model resin(Asiga Dentamodel),burns out just like wax so we didn't need a different investment.

 

[npdynamite]

We've always had issues with the fits on milled wax veneers. I've come to find out its probably due to to the drill compensation. I have started printing our veneers in our Asiga 4K. I wouldn't say I've ironed out all the kinks with getting the patterns to print perfectly everytime with the required supports, but when they come out right, they fit awesome. Also, the model resin(Asiga Dentamodel),burns out just like wax so we didn't need a different investment.

I personally have never loved milling wax veneers, but the ceramists I've worked with say they save time so I still do them. That said, besides general fit, are you having to reseal margins? That has been my biggest concern with printing (outside of having to finish fencing off the occlusion etc.) If you do have to seal the margins, or make any other modification for that matter, can you work with the 3d printed material, or do you just have to go a different route?

One last note, have you printed other restorations than veneers? It would seem that veneers of any restoration you would print, would be the easiest in terms of support, I could be thinking about it wrong though

 

[Brett Hansen CDT]

I personally have never loved milling wax veneers, but the ceramists I've worked with say they save time so I still do them. That said, besides general fit, are you having to reseal margins? That has been my biggest concern with printing (outside of having to finish fencing off the occlusion etc.) If you do have to seal the margins, or make any other modification for that matter, can you work with the 3d printed material, or do you just have to go a different route?

One last note, have you printed other restorations than veneers? It would seem that veneers of any restoration you would print, would be the easiest in terms of support, I could be thinking about it wrong though

For the milled wax veneers, they just don't fit intimately. We always have to reseal the margins before pressing. I think this is almost all due to the drill compensation. The printed veneers did not need to have the margins adjusted. My only issue has been getting them to stick to the build plate properly and/or not distorting. These are issues I could troubleshoot better and improve on, but I am only one tech and I am already responsible for all the implant cases and the mill and 3Shape and taking calls from doctors and ......

I am part of the Facebook group Asiga Dentalexperts. That is where all my info on this came from. I am rather new to printing so I don't fully appreciate exactly what is happening in the printing process like I do with milling.

On it's face, printing seems to be better than milling because you get better fits without that drill compensation especially on sharp preps. I would like to move all our wax to printing, but I'm already stretched and we have a process that works using the mill.