Bite Block base material

Hayden40

Hayden40

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Hi everyone,
I’m thinking of using formal vacuum material to make a bite block base ( instead of a light cure base) but I haven’t used it before .
Any ideas or certain techniques and which material works better.
Thanks
 
DavidW

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I have always disliked any thermoplastic material for base plates, it is too easy to change form when hot ( set-up & waxing)
 
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Inna-Hurry

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Hi everyone,
I’m thinking of using formal vacuum material to make a bite block base ( instead of a light cure base) but I haven’t used it before .
Any ideas or certain techniques and which material works better.
Thanks
May I ask WHY????? Suckdown baseplates and their flexi-flier stability went out in the 00's.... or so I thought. Love me my Megatray...
 
JMN

JMN

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Hi everyone,
I’m thinking of using formal vacuum material to make a bite block base ( instead of a light cure base) but I haven’t used it before .
Any ideas or certain techniques and which material works better.
Thanks
What benefit do you believe you will get from doing this?
 
JMN

JMN

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One of my dentists likes the thermoplastic material more than the light cure base!
Can't fix stupid, but you can charge for it.

There is no way to do a suckdown as fast and cheap. Hands on time with lightcure is something like 2 minutes. That counts air barrier coating on both sides, smoothjng the edges and washing it in an alcohol bath.
With suckdown? Unless you are well practiced at it I've seen an otherwise great tech take 5-6 tries to get a useable one.

Your mileage may vary, you may be great at suckdowns.
 
Doris A

Doris A

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We have a Dr that always wanted shellac until we told him it was twice the price of light cure. Funny thing, money always seems to change their minds.
 
DavidW

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If you must do a vacuum formed baseplate, I think it’s worth the time to make a duplicate model so that you didn’t fracture the master .
 
DavidW

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don’t fracture the master .
( stupid voice to text )
 
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David Laville

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I do both suck down and light cure though I do a majority light cure. I've never once had a problem with suck down (I block out the undercuts) and get better adaptation to the model. I use .150 pink base plate material (the thickest I can find) and it gives me the patients natural rugea but I shy away from it because .150 isn't thick enough. I could thicken the palate with wax but it would wipe out the rugea and defeat the purpose of why I use it. I tend towards light cure because it gives me the proper thickness but I sacrifice the natural rugea and sometimes have problems with the wax adhering to the material. If they would come out with a .200 or .250 pink base plate material for suck downs I'd switch to it in a heart beat.
 
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David Laville

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We have a Dr that always wanted shellac until we told him it was twice the price of light cure. Funny thing, money always seems to change their minds.

Ever leave one in the pot too long? Sticks to everything.
 
Doris A

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Ever leave one in the pot too long? Sticks to everything.
Then it's time for monomer, a q-tip, and LOTS of patience so the case isn't thrown up against a wall!
 
denturist-student

denturist-student

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Light cured baseplate with thin spacer for light body pvs.
 
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FASTFNGR

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Hi everyone,
I’m thinking of using formal vacuum material to make a bite block base ( instead of a light cure base) but I haven’t used it before .
Any ideas or certain techniques and which material works better.
Thanks
I use both, but the vacuum material gives me more room for teeth instead of grinding them. Plus you do not have to trim the acrylic as much at the end. Also it is much cheaper. No distortion if you do not let it melt too much and I can do two models at a time.. It is personal choice,
 
nvarras

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One of my accounts still like to use shellac base plates. I assure you I’m not going to go out and start using them. I always change out his base plates for light cured once I mount.
 

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