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Lab talk, the good, the bad, and the ugly
Dental-CAD
WIC 300-315 Envisiontec
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<blockquote data-quote="charles007" data-source="post: 41349" data-attributes="member: 9"><p>Haven't cast printed patterns yet but this sounds like an old issue when plastic/resin sprues were used years ago. Resin can crack investments as it melts. Must heat soak and use slow rate of climb to prevent cracking !</p><p>Use a 2 stage burnout technique which is what Scott is saying. Must run up using a slow heat rate in the first stage and heat soak for 15+ minutes or so. Can't remember the temp while soaking, maybe between 500-700F. Then run up slow, in the 15 F per minute range to your high temp and soak for 1 hr.</p><p>This is how I cast large bridges using those 6 and 8 gauge solid plastic sprue bars years ago,,,, (Dipping bars-sprues in wax will help, or using hollow plastic sprues) </p><p>A better idea is let Scott print and cast !!!<img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite8" alt=":D" title="Big Grin :D" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":D" /></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="charles007, post: 41349, member: 9"] Haven't cast printed patterns yet but this sounds like an old issue when plastic/resin sprues were used years ago. Resin can crack investments as it melts. Must heat soak and use slow rate of climb to prevent cracking ! Use a 2 stage burnout technique which is what Scott is saying. Must run up using a slow heat rate in the first stage and heat soak for 15+ minutes or so. Can't remember the temp while soaking, maybe between 500-700F. Then run up slow, in the 15 F per minute range to your high temp and soak for 1 hr. This is how I cast large bridges using those 6 and 8 gauge solid plastic sprue bars years ago,,,, (Dipping bars-sprues in wax will help, or using hollow plastic sprues) A better idea is let Scott print and cast !!!:D [/QUOTE]
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Lab talk, the good, the bad, and the ugly
Dental-CAD
WIC 300-315 Envisiontec
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