Sintering beads??

[BobCDT]

What have you found to be the best solution for sintering beads? I know the price of beads is variable. Is more expensive better or are they all the same? Is smaller better? How often are you changing them? What size is best?
Thanks,
Bob

 

[DMC]

Amann Girrbach are awesome!!!

Sooo small. (.3-.4mm)

Also, you can save $$ by buying from Grinding Media, Glass Beads, Zirconium Silicate, Pumps

I'd go .8mm or smaller.
Send me a shipping label and I'll send ya some to try out!

I use them forever. (Over Four years on first batch)

 

[DMC]

ZY Beads

I thought about buying a Rock-tumbler to try and keep my balls smooth and round and shiny! What do you think?

Trying to keep balls rolling during sintering.

 

[BobCDT]

Hi Scott,
I have been using 1mm beads.
What is the advantage of going smaller?
b
Definitely go for the tumbler

 

[DMC]

more contact areas. less chance of getting stuck inbetween things.

check it out, and see for yourself I guess?

Scott

 

[BobCDT]

Will do,
Thanks

 

[BobCDT]

How often r u guys changing the beads?

 

[Labwa]

Has anyone used sintering sand? We've used that and it worked well. Even more support for the frames!

 

[bret]

where do you get the sintering sand

 

[k2 Ceramic Studio]

sintering sand

Has anyone used sintering sand? We've used that and it worked well. Even more support for the frames!

We have been using the sand for over 6 years and never had a problem, must admit that I would like to try the beads but I always have it in my head that if its not broke then don't try and fix it, get the sand from KaVo but I am sure you can get it from loads of places.

 

[bret]

thankS we use the beads but have had problems with bridges warping, and the beads getting stuck interproximal

 

[k2 Ceramic Studio]

Sintering Sand

thankS we use the beads but have had problems with bridges warping, and the beads getting stuck interproximal

No problem just found the product code from KaVo if it helps

KaVo Everest
Sintering Sand ( 50g )
REF 1002.0560

We have had the same tube for over 6 years (now I really do sound tight fisted) like I said, I am sure if you shop about you can find it cheaper than KaVo but it does last a long time. Pete

 

[Buried1999]

Noritake has zirconia beads and it is possible to use them forever. Comparing with the ones I have seen so far, its grain size seems small to me.

 

[e...w...h]

Amann Girrbach are awesome!!!

Sooo small. (.3-.4mm)

Also, you can save $$ by buying from Grinding Media, Glass Beads, Zirconium Silicate, Pumps

I'd go .8mm or smaller.
Send me a shipping label and I'll send ya some to try out!

I use them forever. (Over Four years on first batch)

I tried some of these beads and they simply yellow my units. I thought I ordered the wrong ones, so I called and talked to them and he sent me the "right" ones... same thing.

Which ones do you use?

 

[Marcusthegladiator CDT]

If the beads are yellowing your units, its not the beads. Your oven or your trays are contaminated.
Beads, shmeads, anything over 3 unit bridge needs drops to support and therefore wont be needing beads.
They are much nicer than laying zirc directly on a tray which they may fall off of on the way to the oven.

 

[e...w...h]

This is not true. Beads can most definitely turn your units a yellowish tint. None of our other beads are doing this at all. This is not the "contaminated oven" bright greenish color... this looks like A1ish, almost. If the beads are wrong... or even not meant for sintering... then they can most certainly contaminate the units. This is why I asked what beads he was using as there are several types. Grinding... silicate... It seems the rep misguided me. For the record, these beads are not bright white... they are off white.

Drops are not always necessary either if you sprue and place your bridges in the oven properly.

We rarely use drops and never have issues with warpage. Plus they are a pain to remove

 

[PCDL]

Ok, you all may think Im nuts with this, but I use Sandblasting Sand. 250 micron. Korox from BEGO USA. Dirt cheap (comparatively) and works great. I sinter at 1480c and have never had a problem. How much for a bottle of beads? !

 

[Marcusthegladiator CDT]

of course you dont need drops if your sintering while the spures are attached to a bar or something.

 

[DMC]

I tried some of these beads and they simply yellow my units. I thought I ordered the wrong ones, so I called and talked to them and he sent me the "right" ones... same thing.

Which ones do you use?

The beads do not cause Yellowing. It is exposed Molybdenum elements burning in oxygen atmosphere. Your Silica layer has flaked/burnt off of your elements.

You can cover your units, or buy new elements.

I have used them for years in more than different furnaces.

 

[DMC]

This is not true. Beads can most definitely turn your units a yellowish tint. None of our other beads are doing this at all. This is not the "contaminated oven" bright greenish color... this looks like A1ish, almost. If the beads are wrong... or even not meant for sintering... then they can most certainly contaminate the units. This is why I asked what beads he was using as there are several types. Grinding... silicate... It seems the rep misguided me. For the record, these beads are not bright white... they are off white.

Drops are not always necessary either if you sprue and place your bridges in the oven properly.

We rarely use drops and never have issues with warpage. Plus they are a pain to remove

All beads need to be baked a few times and broken apart....then they never stick together again.

I mill a lot. Trust me.