Restorations Du Jour

[sndmn2]

Why does this matter? Are you just curious?

Just curious. The crown looks nice. The surface texture, are they from the library or are you able to create these with the software.? Will it come out better if printed rather than milled ? I"m still pretty ignorant to all this but trying to understand the posabilities before my first scanner purchase.

 

[CoolHandLuke]

when i morphed the crown i did so without using too much of the smooth, add/remove tools, however there are tricks to getting your grooves back if they are lost.

i was particularly happy with this one because i did it all by eye and on the first try. often if i don't like how a unit has turned out i'll undo everything and start again knowing where i DONT want to end up.

with 3d printing you keep more of the surface texture, because a mill would never be able to mill those tiny grooves. the printer may smooth some but the most you lose with 3dprinting is the incisal edge, because this is the sprue area. so i really didnt need to spend the time making the edge right, it will be lost in the sprue.

the surface texture will be kept though. unless the ceramists devesting it ding the surface. or they take a rubber wheel to the reaction layer. or who knows.

sometimes all my hard work is lost. but that's when i can just reprint it, and really i wont have lost anything but time.

 

[rkm rdt]

It's ok to add texture with what god gave you.

 

[sndmn2]

when i morphed the crown i did so without using too much of the smooth, add/remove tools, however there are tricks to getting your grooves back if they are lost.

i was particularly happy with this one because i did it all by eye and on the first try. often if i don't like how a unit has turned out i'll undo everything and start again knowing where i DONT want to end up.

with 3d printing you keep more of the surface texture, because a mill would never be able to mill those tiny grooves. the printer may smooth some but the most you lose with 3dprinting is the incisal edge, because this is the sprue area. so i really didnt need to spend the time making the edge right, it will be lost in the sprue.

the surface texture will be kept though. unless the ceramists devesting it ding the surface. or they take a rubber wheel to the reaction layer. or who knows.

sometimes all my hard work is lost. but that's when i can just reprint it, and really i wont have lost anything but time.

Thanks for clarification.

 

[actittle]

Here’s a full mouth case that I am in the middle of. The vertical was opened 2mm. So far we have completed the upper and lower anterior sections using A1 e.max multi that have been facially layered with e.max Ceram. We pressed all of these with JP Vest in my Ivoclar EP5000.

 

[Dentalmike]

Here’s a full mouth case that I am in the middle of. The vertical was opened 2mm. So far we have completed the upper and lower anterior sections using A1 e.max multi that have been facially layered with e.max Ceram. We pressed all of these with JP Vest in my Ivoclar EP5000.

View attachment 18183 View attachment 18184 View attachment 18185 View attachment 18186 View attachment 18187 View attachment 18188

Really nice work and photos. Are you using your own programs or the multi from the software upgrade? The multi was way too hot for me. I'm using the factory ht ones and getting similar results. I like the super-ring for 1 or 2 units on the 100gr ht program.

 

[actittle]

Really nice work and photos. Are you using your own programs or the multi from the software upgrade? The multi was way too hot for me. I'm using the factory ht ones and getting similar results. I like the super-ring for 1 or 2 units on the 100gr ht program.

Thanks. Yes, we are using the Ivoclar multi program.

 

[Polarmolar]

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[GeneNY]

Here are the rest of the photos that go with the case I posted the other day.


View attachment 17553

Verification jig

View attachment 17554

Diagnostic waxup, impression of waxup, provisional

View attachment 17555

Seated provisional

View attachment 17556

Seated provisional

View attachment 17557

Impression of the provisional to duplicate the design into wax for the final crowns

View attachment 17558

Pressed emax multi crowns after seating and adjusting contacts. 6 - 11 facial cutback

View attachment 17559

Pinned duplicate model so I can have individual dies. The doctor will also use these to pre-load cement into the crowns.

Nice work Actittle, true craftsmanship. Which material are you using for the verification jig? I m still using the old GC pattern resin way. And Looking to speed up the process and make the jig look better.
Thanks in Advance for sharing

 

[actittle]

Nice work Actittle, true craftsmanship. Which material are you using for the verification jig? I m still using the old GC pattern resin way. And Looking to speed up the process and make the jig look better.
Thanks in Advance for sharing

Thanks for the compliments. The verification jig is made from a sheet of 1/8" thick clear pmma, we cut into an arch shape and drill holes as small as possible so we can use a minimal amount of luting material to attach the provisional abutments. We have found it to be a quick method to fabricate a very rigid and stable verification jig.

 

[Al.]

Nice Case !
Do you think its worth it for the multi ? You still layered it I think you said ?

 

[actittle]

Nice Case !
Do you think its worth it for the multi ? You still layered it I think you said ?

Thanks! My dad, Rick Tittle, did all of the porcelain work. We have been very happy with the multi ingots. Those were facially layered with emax ceram. When layering like that the multi ingots give you a nice internal structure that evenly graduates from low translucency at the cervical to high translucency at the incisal. Also we do a lot of them full contour for the posterior but they have a look that is similar to a simple layered crown but you have the strength of it being all emax.

Since we switched to JP Vest for our pressing investment they have been coming out so smooth we can skip the glaze firing if the doctor doesn't want any staining or characterization and just use diamond polishing paste to finish them.

 

[GeneNY]

Thanks for the compliments. The verification jig is made from a sheet of 1/8" thick clear pmma, we cut into an arch shape and drill holes as small as possible so we can use a minimal amount of luting material to attach the provisional abutments. We have found it to be a quick method to fabricate a very rigid and stable verification jig.

Who sells 1/8 clear PMMA?

 

[CoolHandLuke]

Who sells 1/8 clear PMMA?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-48-in-x-96-in-x-1-8-in-Acrylic-Sheet-MC-100/202038054

 

[GeneNY]

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-48-in-x-96-in-x-1-8-in-Acrylic-Sheet-MC-100/202038054

 

[actittle]

Who sells 1/8 clear PMMA?

You can get it at Home Depot, Lowes, etc. I get mine from a local industrial plastic supplier.

It is sold under many different brand names, Plexiglas, Acrylite, Lucite, Perspex, etc.

 

[GeneNY]

You can get it at Home Depot, Lowes, etc. I get mine from a local industrial plastic supplier.

It is sold under many different brand names, Plexiglas, Acrylite, Lucite, Perspex, etc.

thanks guys.

 

[rkm rdt]

 

[Car 54]

 

[JohnWilson]

Crop that Pt name out,

Oh yeah no flipping Hippa in Canada