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Removable
Replacing a tooth
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<blockquote data-quote="JMN" data-source="post: 250428" data-attributes="member: 8469"><p>My normal w/o the tooth</p><p>match shade & incisal width and 'style'- taper/square/etc. if nothing is close enough start with abigger tooth and grind to match. I've turned centrals and cuspids both into laterals more than once.</p><p></p><p>I endevor to leave the festooning and characterization alone, completely alone, facially. I'll grind out from the inside paper thin, lightly clean the mesial & distal surfaces of the two neighbors, deepen the hole as much as possible without going through the intagio, then the lingual/palatal of the hole gets angled slightly for more retention area ad give room for polisihig out to leave no material iterface line but color shift only between new and old. Now by hand test fit.</p><p></p><p>If it needs more massaging,( at 30K RPM...) adjust till it looks like it belongs.</p><p></p><p>For one tooth w/o an opposing, I'll set the tooth in a well/dappan dish of monomer while barely under filling the hole with wet mixed acrylic. Then settle tooth into position while acrylic is soft enough to move. Wait a few seconds and make sure it is fiddled into position and not wating to move 'round on it's own.</p><p></p><p>Drop in pot to cure.</p><p></p><p>Multiple teeth or with opposing I'll mouht or hand atriculate to check interference with bite paper</p><p></p><p>and if a funky opposing or posterior, I will mount(normally) or hand articulate(rarely) to set/wax/matrix pretty much as you suggest.</p><p></p><p>Did that help at all?</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="JMN, post: 250428, member: 8469"] My normal w/o the tooth match shade & incisal width and 'style'- taper/square/etc. if nothing is close enough start with abigger tooth and grind to match. I've turned centrals and cuspids both into laterals more than once. I endevor to leave the festooning and characterization alone, completely alone, facially. I'll grind out from the inside paper thin, lightly clean the mesial & distal surfaces of the two neighbors, deepen the hole as much as possible without going through the intagio, then the lingual/palatal of the hole gets angled slightly for more retention area ad give room for polisihig out to leave no material iterface line but color shift only between new and old. Now by hand test fit. If it needs more massaging,( at 30K RPM...) adjust till it looks like it belongs. For one tooth w/o an opposing, I'll set the tooth in a well/dappan dish of monomer while barely under filling the hole with wet mixed acrylic. Then settle tooth into position while acrylic is soft enough to move. Wait a few seconds and make sure it is fiddled into position and not wating to move 'round on it's own. Drop in pot to cure. Multiple teeth or with opposing I'll mouht or hand atriculate to check interference with bite paper and if a funky opposing or posterior, I will mount(normally) or hand articulate(rarely) to set/wax/matrix pretty much as you suggest. Did that help at all? [/QUOTE]
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