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<blockquote data-quote="leecoursey" data-source="post: 9928" data-attributes="member: 840"><p>I'm not expert, just a techno-geek.</p><p></p><p>1. Get a good monitor. A Dell UltraSharp is a great start and relatively cheap. An older Sony Trinitron CRT monitor is a good choice. Combine this with a monitor calibration unit like the Pantone Huey S5 Pro for as accurate a color as possible.</p><p></p><p>Learn the Color Process of your photos. If you use one particualr camera all the time, find out what compress (if any) it uses and what the color profile is. I use the Nikon D60 with Bower Ring Flash. The Nikon d60 Color Representaion (found in the exif data) is sRGB. You can use this with Photoshop to get as accurate a color as possible.</p><p></p><p>There are several systems out there that will help you get shade by doing very much close to what you were describing, but they don't give you depth of color. They use a Process Black & White color tab combined with (usually) and A1 or A2 shade tab placed in the picture to allow for color fabrication.</p><p></p><p>All of this is dependant on the angle of the picture, the glare off the tooth, the axis of the tooth, etc. There are so many variables, but alot can be gained.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="leecoursey, post: 9928, member: 840"] I'm not expert, just a techno-geek. 1. Get a good monitor. A Dell UltraSharp is a great start and relatively cheap. An older Sony Trinitron CRT monitor is a good choice. Combine this with a monitor calibration unit like the Pantone Huey S5 Pro for as accurate a color as possible. Learn the Color Process of your photos. If you use one particualr camera all the time, find out what compress (if any) it uses and what the color profile is. I use the Nikon D60 with Bower Ring Flash. The Nikon d60 Color Representaion (found in the exif data) is sRGB. You can use this with Photoshop to get as accurate a color as possible. There are several systems out there that will help you get shade by doing very much close to what you were describing, but they don't give you depth of color. They use a Process Black & White color tab combined with (usually) and A1 or A2 shade tab placed in the picture to allow for color fabrication. All of this is dependant on the angle of the picture, the glare off the tooth, the axis of the tooth, etc. There are so many variables, but alot can be gained. [/QUOTE]
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