Dental photography

wwcanoer

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Some questions regarding dental photography.

1. Any recommendations regarding the monitor. The one I am currently using is probably one of the first-generation flat screens that came out X years ago, and needs/should be replaced.

2. Is Photoshop an essential part of successful dental photography?

I'm having a discussion with my boss regarding these issues. He feels that you should be able to take a photo, with shade tab, or rather a series of photos with different shade tabs and then have a true representation on the monitor screen, and be able to pick the correct shade. I disagree. I don't think things are accurate enough to do that. Not even close. The photos definitely help, but not to decide if it's an A2 or A3. These images are downloaded straight from the camera in Raw format and then called up using the Nikon program.

So back to Photoshop. All the classes I've seen offered require that you have Photoshop, so to me that's a red flag saying that it's essential. But, is it for case presentation purposes, for shade selection, or just an aide for shade, or what?

Thanks,

Carol
 
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Hi Carol,
Regarding the monitor, I think you should be used to working on images with whatever monitor you use. That way you know how what you see on the monitor relates to reality. Switching to a new monitor will introduce an additional variable.
With dental photos I don't do much in Photoshop, except for some sharpening maybe. My main weapon of choice is Adobe's Lightroom. I use it for processing RAW into Tiff after small adjustments like white balance, exposure and cropping.
Hope this helps a little!
Best regards,
Klaus





 
johngimpelcdt

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Hi Carol,
Digital photos are simply a guide for you, not for choosing a shade because the camera, monitor and printer will not produce 100% accuracy. The value in digital photos is that regardless of accuracy of color, you will see the subtle differences when compared to the shade tab. If the dentist chooses A3, you can decipher chroma & value of the teeth compared to the shade tab. The photo also shows you where nuances in characteristics are located, and their intensity. Having said this, receiving digital photos is fantastic, but the shade tab must be included in the image, at the same level/plane.

AS far as software, I use Photo Impact, which is similar to Photo Shop. As long as images are saved non-specific to their respective software, you can use either. Typical file formats for sending images is .JPG (jpeg). They can be reduced in file size for email/posting purposes. RAW formats are typically required by journals and thier file size is huge.

Hope this helps.
John
 
wwcanoer

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picture.php
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These photos are what have me curious regarding photography. This first photo of a MOD prepped number five, with A3.5 shade tab, looks like a great match for the incisal third. The pressed restoration, staining technique, looks like a good match as shown in the next two photos. Unfortunately, when tried in, it looked incredibly opaque (sorry no photo),and ended up redoing it with Bellglass.

picture.php


picture.php
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I have done other MOD restorations using both Jenson's Authentic and Ivoclar's Esthetic and 90% of the time have great results. I guess what this boils down to, is I feel like I'm missing something regarding the interpretation of the photos. And that leads me back to my original question regarding my monitor.....

Carol
 
leecoursey

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I'm not expert, just a techno-geek.

1. Get a good monitor. A Dell UltraSharp is a great start and relatively cheap. An older Sony Trinitron CRT monitor is a good choice. Combine this with a monitor calibration unit like the Pantone Huey S5 Pro for as accurate a color as possible.

Learn the Color Process of your photos. If you use one particualr camera all the time, find out what compress (if any) it uses and what the color profile is. I use the Nikon D60 with Bower Ring Flash. The Nikon d60 Color Representaion (found in the exif data) is sRGB. You can use this with Photoshop to get as accurate a color as possible.

There are several systems out there that will help you get shade by doing very much close to what you were describing, but they don't give you depth of color. They use a Process Black & White color tab combined with (usually) and A1 or A2 shade tab placed in the picture to allow for color fabrication.

All of this is dependant on the angle of the picture, the glare off the tooth, the axis of the tooth, etc. There are so many variables, but alot can be gained.
 
DMC

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ai44.tinypic.com_301q70j.jpg

5000k lights behind a white diffuser. BAM!

This is a pic of the set-up.
If I wanted to show the object foe real...I'd stick the camera in there almost. 105mm Nikon micro lens is nice. Or a 60mm micro to save $$.
ai44.tinypic.com_301q70j.jpg
 
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Al.

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ai44.tinypic.com_301q70j.jpg

5000k lights behind a white diffuser. BAM!

This is a pic of the set-up.
If I wanted to show the object foe real...I'd stick the camera in there almost. 105mm Nikon micro lens is nice. Or a 60mm micro to save $$.

What kind of bulbs are those and where did you get them?
What is that you are using for a diffuser?
Thanks Al
ai44.tinypic.com_301q70j.jpg
 
DMC

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55 Watt Trumpet Top 10,000hrs of use!

More Photo Kits ...

EZbox is what I have I think. It folds up to a thin disk for storage.

I also have the big box around 3 1/2 ft and those three lights. It makes me feel as though I know a little sump'n'bout photo stuff, which I don't
 
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JonB

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Intra-Oral and Dental Photography

This will be a thread to discuss tips and techniques - ask questions in a "safe" zone so we all can improve our photo skills. I'm as much a learner as anyone so I hope a lot of folks will join in and share their ideas.
This is not a place to just show off images - its not to be a gallery of shots. Hopefully it will be a good place to try new things and see your results and ask questions or share alternate ideas on photography as it relates to Dental Photography.

So have fun!

Here is how to load images from another site:

You can open a Flikr or photobucket account for nothing and then just cross link to here.

Its a simple right click on your image that is hosted elsewhere - go down to where it says "Copy Image Location" and then just paste the url into the box provided for photo links.

I use Smugmug to host my images - but anywhere you want to put them will work.

I just right clicked on my avatar image and got this:

awww.jonberryphoto.com_photos_1182496482_uAzAX_M.jpg

(Before posting this, I opened the image in photoshop and circled the menu option - then loaded it to Smugmug. )

Then I just pasted this address (htxx://www.jonberryphoto.com/photos/1182496482_uAzAX-M.jpg) into the box. <-disabled so as to show the link.

Be sure that the link you paste ends with .jpg or else you got the wrong one. Go back and do it again.

To make your image larger or smaller... sometimes you can simply just change the S to an M or to an L or even an XL in the url.

htxx://www.jonberryphoto.com/photos/1182496482_uAzAX-M.jpg
awww.jonberryphoto.com_photos_1182496482_uAzAX_M.jpg
 
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JonB

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To kick it off -here is a series of shots of a bridge we just divested. (it could have trapped a few less bubbles... ;-) )
This is to demonstrate "off camera" flash and using the space between the flash and the subject to change the way shadows affect the subject.
Notice the hardness of the shadows in the first image:
awww.jonberryphoto.com_photos_1182504012_P9Vy9_L.jpg

and how soft the light is and how it wraps around the subject here:
awww.jonberryphoto.com_photos_1182503970_pcfZ8_L.jpg

What is the difference? Both are shot with the ring flash removed from the end of the lens and held above the bridge.

On the top image, the flash is held about 10 to 12 inches away from the bridge. On the bottom image, the flash is held at the same angle to the bridge but only just out of the frame - about two inches.

The closer your light source to the subject, the less harsh shadows and specular highlights are reflected. The light just wraps around your subject.
awww.jonberryphoto.com_photos_1182504012_P9Vy9_L.jpg awww.jonberryphoto.com_photos_1182503970_pcfZ8_L.jpg
 
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JonB

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While I have a big white photo box for taking shots of small items - i prefer to use smaller and simpler things to make images. Often I'll use a magazine cover that is way out of the depth of field to give a nice splash of color in an abstract way.
Other times I'll use a piece of brown cardboard. Today I had some blue construction paper that i folded in half and set up on the bench with the help of whatever i had handy to prop it up against. In this case an empty Sharpie box and a hose nozzle. The bend creates a vanishing point behind the subject.

awww.jonberryphoto.com_photos_1182504121_ELdzb_L.jpg

You get images like what i showed in the first post.

And that gives you a very small area that can be discarded in less than 2 minutes without moving or cleaning up an otherwise cluttered desk. Or using a dedicated table or bench for photography that you have to keep clean all the time.

Think small! :)
awww.jonberryphoto.com_photos_1182504121_ELdzb_L.jpg
 
2thm8kr

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"That's cool! I like it that you are using halogens too."

I'm using halogens because they were laying around my garage from another project. I added a dimmer to the track lighting, it dosen't really help much.


"Are you using a gray card or expodisc to do a custom white balance for the light source?" :confused:

I don't know too much about photography in general.
I have a Nikkon D80 that was given to me for doing a 6 unit lower Lava bridge for one of my clients wife. Before that I had a Minolta Dimage 7

"I have taken to just setting up a very small place using magazine covers of a half a sheet of colored paper and just shooting at a very controlled angle."

I used to do this also, but I found that a designated place made things much more convenient for shooting photos.

Here's what I get with my setup. View attachment 1076

View attachment 1077
DSC_0160.jpg DSC_0176.jpg
 
rkm rdt

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I am so glad you are taking the time to share your experience here Jon.I have just purchased Nikon D90 with a 60mm Nikon lens,ring flash.

I am going to try this and post shortly

Again Thankyou
 
JonB

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Well - lets have some fun bouncing light around!
 
rkm rdt

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Here is my image with the ring flash attached...about 10 inches away.

rkmrdt
 
rkm rdt

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Sorry,

Here is my first try

ai971.photobucket.com_albums_ae197_rkmrdt_cameraphotos074.jpg
ai971.photobucket.com_albums_ae197_rkmrdt_cameraphotos074.jpg
 
JonB

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Looks like you are standing over the casting and shooting down?

Try holding the camera in the right hand and take the ring flash off of the lens and hold it with your left hand. Then move it around and take multiple shots. Its digital - they're cheap. :) see what you get when you have the light close and when its as far away as you can get it. then give this a try - hold the ring flash close to the casting and the camera far away and shoot through the lens hole in the ring. You can play with light and see where it goes when its held at different angles.

This shows the edge of the ring flash just above the bridge.
awww.jonberryphoto.com_photos_1182504081_P5SQe_L.jpg
The camera is at a slightly higher angle than i would normally shoot - as i was concentrating on getting the flash into the shot.

On this shot - the ring flash is almost past the fixture level and just shining light on the body of the crown. I'm shooting through the ringflash hole with the ring flash and crown about 10 inches away from the end of the lens.
awww.jonberryphoto.com_photos_1177596209_2r2VL_L.jpg

Oh yeah - this is the same blue construction paper as the other shots - just letting the light fly elsewhere.
awww.jonberryphoto.com_photos_1182504081_P5SQe_L.jpg awww.jonberryphoto.com_photos_1177596209_2r2VL_L.jpg
 
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JonB

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"That's cool! I like it that you are using halogens too."

I'm using halogens because they were laying around my garage from another project. I added a dimmer to the track lighting, it dosen't really help much.


"Are you using a gray card or expodisc to do a custom white balance for the light source?" :confused:

I don't know too much about photography in general.
I have a Nikkon D80 ***snip***

Setting up your camera for a custom white balance is fairly easy and its necessary if you want accurate color. Every light source has a different color temperature. On your camera there are basic settings for AWB Average White Balance, Tungsten, Florescent, Sunlight and so on. There is also a "Custom" setting.
There are a couple ways to get a custom white balance - several more maybe - but I'll address two. 1) an Expodisc is a type of filter you hold in front of your lens and aim at the dominant light source and take a pict. Then you tell your camera to use that as the white balance image. Your camera will automatically set the white balance for all shots from then on. Every time the light changes - you have to take a new image and reset the white balance.
2) instead of popping for a $130.00 72mm filter - you can use the Chuck Gardner method of setting a custom white balance. Chuck recommends using an 18% gray card - I use a white one. The camera only really sees in black and white and does all kinds of gymnastics to get color out of the file. It actually tries to level everything to a middle gray - so a white card will work almost as easily as a gray one. So - get a nice clean white wash cloth and keep it in your bag. When you are ready to shoot, with or without flash - lay it out and take a pict. Make sure the cloth is fairly flat and fills the frame. Then just like before - tell the camera to use that image for all the shots you're going to shoot under that lighting condition. (you shoulda seen me at the art museum a while back when they had a car exhibit - Every new room, I'd find someone with a white shirt and I'd get in close and shoot their shoulder - then set the white balance. Worked like a charm since i forgot my wash cloth that day.):D

The other option is to shoot one scene with a gray card in the frame - then use the Gray point tool in either photoshop or lightroom to set the gray point. This often will correct the worst color shifts when you took a great image with the wrong setting. You can batch process a lot of shots at once with this tool by applying the change to all of the ones that need it. We'll save that technique for another day though.
 
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2thm8kr

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Setting up your camera for a custom white balance is fairly easy and its necessary if you want accurate color. Every light source has a different color temperature. On your camera there are basic settings for AWB Average White Balance, Tungsten, Florescent, Sunlight and so on. There is also a "Custom" setting.
There are a couple ways to get a custom white balance - several more maybe - but I'll address two. 1) an Expodisc is a type of filter you hold in front of your lens and aim at the dominant light source and take a pict. Then you tell your camera to use that as the white balance image. Your camera will automatically set the white balance for all shots from then on. Every time the light changes - you have to take a new image and reset the white balance.
2) instead of popping for a $130.00 72mm filter - you can use the Chuck Gardner method of setting a custom white balance. Get a nice clean white wash cloth and keep it in your bag. When you are ready to shoot, with or without flash - lay it out and take a pict. Make sure the cloth is fairly flat and fills the frame. Then just like before - tell the camera to use that image for all the shots you're going to shoot under that lighting condition. (you shoulda seen me at the art museum a while back when they had a car exhibit - Every new room, I'd find someone with a white shirt and I'd get in close and shoot their shoulder - then set the white balance. Worked like a charm since i forgot my wash cloth that day.):D

The other option is to shoot one scene with a gray card in the frame - then use the Gray point tool in either photoshop or lightroom to set the gray point. This often will correct the worst color shifts when you took a great image with the wrong setting. You can batch process a lot of shots at once with this tool by applying the change to all of the ones that need it. We'll save that technique for another day though.



Jon,

Thanks for taking the time to explain! I'll give option 2 a try
 
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