CubeX2

[Drizzt]

With tanaka and B&D incisals any value or hue can be made

So you're saying you can copy a single central just with stains ?? For a 6 ant case sure , you can do it with stains , but for single central matching level I highly doubt it .

 

[ts4341]

Are you charging more for this micro layering? I highly doubt any of you dentist know the difference. You are wasting your time, unless you are charging more. As for matching a single central, I would use EMAX cutback with LiSi porcelain any day of the week over Zr micro layer.

 

[Drizzt]

Are you charging more for this micro layering? I highly doubt any of you dentist know the difference. You are wasting your time, unless you are charging more. As for matching a single central, I would use EMAX cutback with LiSi porcelain any day of the week over Zr micro layer.

Yes I am charging more . Of course I do . And thank god the dentists I work with notice the difference , that is why the choose to pay for it instead of a dead fcz restoration .

 

[Michael Steel]

Hey the 1450 works well but what incisal liquids are you using and how long are you dipping each shade for

 

[ts4341]

Drizzt I have seen your work, it very good.. I am glad you are making it work. Our FCZs are NOT dead, the FCZs we are creating are vital and alive with out micro layering.. Thanks for the good info from you and Charles. T

 

[Drizzt]

Hey the 1450 works well but what incisal liquids are you using and how long are you dipping each shade for

I am dipping , I am coloring them by brush .

 

[PearlZ]

anyone willing to help me troubleshoot some shading issues?

i can get C and D shades, but A and B are inconsistent - usually too yellow. for example i need an A1, i need to dip in OM1 to get light enough to do some colour correction with stains and glazes, but that's quickly becoming a lot of work.

i have my S1 up to max temp and cooling around 8 hrs.

units are baked in toaster oven before sinter.

does anybody have some suggestions ? some have said the dental direkt incisal liquid doesnt "work" whatever that means though i don't know what else to try, other than lowering the temp 50 deg and making it 11 hrs program.

my units are sellable quality, but i want to make it less intensive labour on the stain end to acheive good shades in A and B range.

 

[eyeloveteeth]

anyone willing to help me troubleshoot some shading issues?

i can get C and D shades, but A and B are inconsistent - usually too yellow. for example i need an A1, i need to dip in OM1 to get light enough to do some colour correction with stains and glazes, but that's quickly becoming a lot of work.

i have my S1 up to max temp and cooling around 8 hrs.

units are baked in toaster oven before sinter.

does anybody have some suggestions ? some have said the dental direkt incisal liquid doesnt "work" whatever that means though i don't know what else to try, other than lowering the temp 50 deg and making it 11 hrs program.

my units are sellable quality, but i want to make it less intensive labour on the stain end to acheive good shades in A and B range.

have you tried maybe using EA1 or A1 UTML katana instead? (not dodging your question, just saying).

It's interesting because i think most ppl have problems achieving C and D with the Zpex and A/B ranges are usually easier to get to. maybe try a less metal-based (or salt based) stain (yes i get it oxymoron) - but like a watered down version of aquarell?

 

[CoolHandLuke]

well its not pinpointed enough for me to say its time to change incisal liquid, however the A and B use one incisal liquid, and the others don't. it could just be that particular liquid - however again i can't be sure.

it might be a reaction to the glaze

it might be the ovens need purging

it might be the (mis)use of the polish that came in the box

and my ceramists might be creating problems i haven't the foggiest notion about.

starting next week we'll try a different incisal liquid just to see if theres a difference post glaze.

 

[Drizzt]

Ok , this is the central case I was talking about . Layered . Not 100% copy of the other central , I missed the margin and some things of the shape because of bad impression and model , but overall it blends nicely . I used Whitepeaks Coprasmile for the frame . I took advantage of its translucency and used the stump shade in my favor to keep the value and chroma correct . It was a ''one shot , one kill '' case , no corrections were made at the lab with the patient as I normally do , I wish I had the chance to do that .

 

[bigbrush]

Great!

 

[Drizzt]

Great!

Thanks bigbrush !

 

[PearlZ]

we have all the supertrans shading issues sorted out finally. getting quality and consistency out of the Cubex2. all it took was a little re-thinking of the process, and a few tweaks to the shading guide.

 

[elpiojoxp]

we have all the supertrans shading issues sorted out finally. getting quality and consistency out of the Cubex2. all it took was a little re-thinking of the process, and a few tweaks to the shading guide.

Can you please share what you change in your process and the "few tweaks" in the sahding guide? Thank you very much! Regards

 

[Luis]

Hello,
Can someone confirm if the color liquids for the cubex 2 zirconia are waterbase or acid?
thanks

 

[user name]

Hello,
Can someone confirm if the color liquids for the cubex 2 zirconia are waterbase or acid?
thanks

Slightly acidic water.

 

[elpiojoxp]

As long as I know DD BioZX2 MONOLITH ZERO they are waterbased.

 

[user name]

Slightly acidic water.

As long as I know DD BioZX2 MONOLITH ZERO they are waterbased.

I was in error saying theyre slightly acidic. I just stuck my Ph tester in a bottle; the tester only reads down to 3 on the acidic side of things, and it maxed out, so its very acidic.

 

[elpiojoxp]

@user name, you are talking about DD BioZX2 MONOLITH ZERO pre sintering liquids right?

 

[user name]

@user name, you are talking about DD BioZX2 MONOLITH ZERO pre sintering liquids right?

Yes.