Base plate material

JohnWilson

JohnWilson

Well-Known Member
Full Member
Messages
5,487
Reaction score
1,575
A dollar a base-plate for material is not even worth considering when we are talking about an appliance that garners a full arch appliance price.

I have a ERKODENT vac-u-form machine that makes amazing things it just makes little sense to dupicate suckdown and make a processed base style baseplate. If I need to manage an appliance then I will most definitely make a clear processed baseplate that will be used to process back to. Doesn't nearly happen as often as it once did.

VLC baseplates to me is the sweetspot and allows for some amazingly accurate and well fitting preliminaries that will transition to a wonderful try in.
 
rkm rdt

rkm rdt

Well-Known Member
Full Member
Messages
21,448
Reaction score
3,288
Just wondering what thickness should the denture base plate material be at the edges of the fitting surface when finished and also what bur is best to use to smooth edges of the light cure material?

I was using grey acrylic polishers that were wasting like a hot knife through butter!
carbide
 
JMN

JMN

Christian Member
Full Member
Messages
12,205
Reaction score
1,884
Just wondering what thickness should the denture base plate material be at the edges of the fitting surface when finished and also what bur is best to use to smooth edges of the light cure material?

I was using grey acrylic polishers that were wasting like a hot knife through butter!
Light touch slow speed carbide, then slow sandpaper strip -not arbor, then damp ragwheel with pumice. Thats my path anyway.
 
JKraver

JKraver

Well-Known Member
Full Member
Messages
3,422
Reaction score
451
Just wondering what thickness should the denture base plate material be at the edges of the fitting surface when finished and also what bur is best to use to smooth edges of the light cure material?

I was using grey acrylic polishers that were wasting like a hot knife through butter!
Coarse Scotchbrite
 
D

dborla01

Active Member
Full Member
Messages
142
Reaction score
55
We use two Keystone clear suck-down base plates: .080 for the try-in base and .060 for the striking plate, on uppers. We mix artist's clay with Buffalo block out compound, which makes it less messy. We then roll it flat and line the model 360 degrees, using baby powder as a release agent. On the lower model, we use light cure...works like a champ.
 
TomZ

TomZ

Well-Known Member
Full Member
Messages
804
Reaction score
294
I actually tested the product, defined the application and named it, when I was with Keystone(10 years) in the technical consultant capacity.
We packaged it with the vacuum form and soft liner products as the usage was broader in those applications, but it works very nicely on light cured baseplate material as well.
 
JMN

JMN

Christian Member
Full Member
Messages
12,205
Reaction score
1,884
I actually tested the product, defined the application and named it, when I was with Keystone(10 years) in the technical consultant capacity.
We packaged it with the vacuum form and soft liner products as the usage was broader in those applications, but it works very nicely on light cured baseplate material as well.
Thanks for the clarity addition. I get overly literal and wouldn't have wanted to 'kill' a burr to find out if it would be ok.
 
denturist-student

denturist-student

Well-Known Member
Full Member
Messages
597
Reaction score
103
I always use a light cured baseplate. I take the initial bite with a massad jaw recorder or alternative pin tracer and with a full upper bite rim for esthetic markings. I use that to make new models and when I do the final try in after making facebow indexes, will take a light body wash impression using the final light cured baseplate...Why? Because usually we have to stabilize the upper anyways for a try in...Cannot get an accurate assessment of the bite without a stable upper and lower so that is the reason for the light body wash...Then I take those and process the complete things as I would a reline impression. I use the final impressions along i with a buccal impression using the Massad technique for buccal impressions....I am getting a lot of good feedback doing it that way....Very comfortable fitting......
 
lcmlabforum

lcmlabforum

Well-Known Member
Full Member
Messages
1,476
Reaction score
160
FWIW, used to make clear colorless, and clear pink Ortho resin base plates and I like the fit way better than any LC
trays (Triad included, although I use MegaTray now for convenience).
Way more details for sure.
LCM
 
John in Canada

John in Canada

Active Member
Full Member
Messages
140
Reaction score
18
Primo Base, A1. Thin and stable. Usually no or very little grinding of the base in order to set teeth. For me the thinness is worth the extra money, rather than grinding, creating dust, weak or thin spots, etc.
 
JKraver

JKraver

Well-Known Member
Full Member
Messages
3,422
Reaction score
451
You do your denture base plate in A1 interesting. Seems like that would show through the wax.
 
R

Ryan Vick

Member
Full Member
Messages
20
Reaction score
6
I use light cure custom tray material from Zahn Dental. Pink think(1.4mm). Always been good for me and very inexpensive. About a dollar per sheet.
 
budgenator

budgenator

Active Member
Full Member
Messages
111
Reaction score
28
I loved the fit I get with 1.4mm megatray on the upper, I use a rubber dam and a vacuformer machine to really get it adapted then give the palate a couple blasts with a led wand, then finish the cure in the light box; but the slime-layer always gives me fits. It seems awful brittle on the lowers even when double-layered on the linguals too. So I gone back to good old 0.80 pink thermoformed acrylic.
For a while I was making permanent denture bases for try-ins, they worked great for the VOD and try-in phase, but processing to finish was technically demanding, finicky and a lot of work, so it shot my man-hours per dentures up too high for fees we could get.
 
JMN

JMN

Christian Member
Full Member
Messages
12,205
Reaction score
1,884
I loved the fit I get with 1.4mm megatray on the upper, I use a rubber dam and a vacuformer machine to really get it adapted then give the palate a couple blasts with a led wand, then finish the cure in the light box; but the slime-layer always gives me fits. It seems awful brittle on the lowers even when double-layered on the linguals too. So I gone back to good old 0.80 pink thermoformed acrylic.
For a while I was making permanent denture bases for try-ins, they worked great for the VOD and try-in phase, but processing to finish was technically demanding, finicky and a lot of work, so it shot my man-hours per dentures up too high for fees we could get.
To eliminate the "slime", paint the model with vaseline and any exposed tray material with vaseline. No slime, just have to wash it off with soap and water. 2 minutes with a toothbrush and dish soap, tops.
 
kcdt

kcdt

Well-Known Member
Full Member
Messages
2,845
Reaction score
632
To eliminate the "slime", paint the model with vaseline and any exposed tray material with vaseline. No slime, just have to wash it off with soap and water. 2 minutes with a toothbrush and dish soap, tops.
You can also remove the layer with some alcohol and a scrub brush
 
Daniel Watters

Daniel Watters

Member
Full Member
Messages
40
Reaction score
1
The most accurate representation of the final denture base would be a stabilized base plate. Separator then blockout with wax or soft reline material the salt and pepper technique for the temporary acrylic base. The only thing more stable than this is to process the final acrylic base first and place the wax rim on it.
 
Top Bottom