Anterior Emax Build

Al.

Al.

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I just mailed this case out this morning.

These are the temps they want me to duplicate the shape but improve on them a bit.

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Note how I reduced the lingual of the dentin rods also so I can wrap them with enamel.

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Thats it for the build, I forgot to take pics of the rest of the enamel build.
ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_009_1.jpg ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_2_2.jpg ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_6.jpg ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_12.jpg ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_13.jpg ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_14.jpg ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_16.jpg ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_18.jpg ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_21.jpg ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_22.jpg ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_23.jpg ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_24.jpg
 
JohnWilson

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Nice case and pics AL, if I could ask a favor when you post additional cases can you post the ingot you pressed and which powders you are using in your build up photos. I think we can all learn from that.

We are having fun experimenting with all the new powders I have invested in. We have done so much empress esthetic over the years that I was too cheap initially to buy all new stuff for EMAX. We have had get success with colorizing monolithic but for ant we initially just invested in just minimal powders.

Like I said Al that free ticket out to cali for the hands on course is still up for grabs.
 
sixonice

sixonice

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another beautiful case, masterfully documented. Your understanding of the e.max material is obvious - you definetely could get paid nicely to "side gig" and help teach other technicians your techniques and styles. What I find interesting is that you always find something that you think you could have done better - I suppose that is the only way to really push your talent & creative limits. Thanks for sharing!
 
Al.

Al.

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He requested an A1 and he gave me a shade tab for the gin that looked like an A2/3. And he wanted mamalons with a blueish halo.

At the gin I added A35 dentin. It is a small amount so if I used A2 I doubt the shade difference would be noticable and because her teeth are so large I wanted to go darker interproximaly to make them look more seperated.

I probably should have used Deep Dentin for the interprox because it is more intense and reg dentin for the facial.

I used OE Violet inbetween the mamalons. To make it more suttle you can mix it 50 50 with incisal. If it is a dark shade you may not need anything.
Also how sutle they are depends alot on how much you layer over them or how much your cut back is or how much trans incisal you use to wrap them with. Really all three of those affect how noticable they will be.
I used 2 putty matrix, one for the facial and the other I put on the lower ants to duplicate the over jet.

I layered with incisal 58 but sandwiched small thin beads of clear in to create some illusion of cracks but with no stain. How thick or wide the bead is determines how noticable they will be.

I used 0E2 and OE3 to build the M & D line angles and Height of Contour.
Using the slightly ihiter porc really helps make the line angles and HOC more prominante which is necessary for wide and large teeth, that in combo with a darker interproximal shade can help alot giving the illusion of narrower teeth.

If you think you have a bit too much trans on the incisal edge you can also use the OE's in the lingual or even on the facial to reflect more light.

After the incisal is built to full contour, to create a halo, flatten your brush and serrate the edge and add IE or Incisal Edge porc to the incisal edge, or you can use body porc.

That was pretty much the build.

The details in the texture like the little dimples on the line angles the developmental grooves, the striations the fine scribed external cracks that go to chips in the incisl edge I experiment with and take pics of at different angles to see how they reflect light. Of course alot of teeth are smooth and polished but he asked for moderate texture.

Then glaze on the low side and with deluted glaze, to keep the detail and hit the highlights with a rubber wheel then hit with diamond paste except for areas that you may want a more matte finish

ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_153.jpg
ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_153.jpg
 
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normanmilquetoast

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Al thanks, great job.
I'm kind of new to emax, just got a cosmetic anterior case and this is just what I needed.
Could you give me an idea of how the crack liner stain works?

Thanks,

Trey
 
A

AL1

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Al, I noticed you sprued on the labial surface instead of the incisal edge for your full crowns it keeps your mammalons nice but do you ever have trouble pressing puttung the spruces in that area?
 
Al.

Al.

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Al, I noticed you sprued on the labial surface instead of the incisal edge for your full crowns it keeps your mammalons nice but do you ever have trouble pressing puttung the spruces in that area?

No never, it dosent leave that blister or discolored spot either like it does on posteriors.

I sprue it the same if i do press and stain lower anteriors so I dont have to redue the incisal edge.
 
Al.

Al.

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Al thanks, great job.
I'm kind of new to emax, just got a cosmetic anterior case and this is just what I needed.
Could you give me an idea of how the crack liner stain works?

Thanks,

Trey

Hi Trey I will show you later about the crack liner, a way to make really nice and fast and realistic internal cracks with that stain in one bake.

Do you want to share any details on your case?
How many units what is the desired final shade and what is the shade of the preps?
 
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normanmilquetoast

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I'm not in the lab, but it's an eight unit, #'s (I think) 4, 6-11 and 13. I believe 5 and 12 were pressed finesse that I did a while back. Stumps are A1ish with a grey tetracycline band in the middle 1/3. Final shade to be BL2. Just finished the model work Friday. I'm planning on using LT BL2. I've got pre-op and prepped photos.
I've read that you post your photos to photo bucket and link...I'll try to set up an account today.
 
C

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Al, you said to glaze on the low side........Would you give your different glaze program times and temps for layered emax.
Ivoclar told me to use a 2 minute hold on nonlayered emax.......Didn't really notice a change, more important to prepolish more than a temp change for me in my ep5000.
Al, do you also have several glaze programs for your Inline ?
 
Al.

Al.

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Al, you said to glaze on the low side........Would you give your different glaze program times and temps for layered emax.
Ivoclar told me to use a 2 minute hold on nonlayered emax.......Didn't really notice a change, more important to prepolish more than a temp change for me in my ep5000.
Al, do you also have several glaze programs for your Inline ?

Hi Charles,
For layered anteriors I usually glaze 10 F lower and delute my glaze.
 
Al.

Al.

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Could you give me an idea of how the crack liner stain works?

Thanks,

Trey

Trey practice this on molars.

Take your crackliner stain and VERY Important, Delute it with your glaze liquid. Make it a thin wash. To start err on the light side.

Layer your incisal like this.

ai46.photobucket.com_albums_f116_CDLAB_y.jpg

I use a 00 brush and flatten the tip, mix it into the glaze wash and with one swift stroke paint the stain on.

If you see stain on the build you have it mixed too thick.

Pratice it on a few dozen molars and you will have it down.

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Al.

Al.

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I'm not in the lab, but it's an eight unit, #'s (I think) 4, 6-11 and 13. I believe 5 and 12 were pressed finesse that I did a while back. Stumps are A1ish with a grey tetracycline band in the middle 1/3. Final shade to be BL2. Just finished the model work Friday. I'm planning on using LT BL2. I've got pre-op and prepped photos.
I've read that you post your photos to photo bucket and link...I'll try to set up an account today.


That figures when you said cosmetic case that usually means a bleach shade.

For those type cases I wax full contour and do a conservative cut back and keep the incisal effects min to none. Some times I dont even break the contacts but I do carry the incisla 3/4 of the way down feathering it to help knock down some of the glare.

Ill be out of town till Thurs and will be away from my computer.

Al
 
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normanmilquetoast

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Thanks Al, have a great trip.
Here's the preop and prep photos...never posted photos, hope it works!
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normanmilquetoast

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ai959.photobucket.com_albums_ae79_normanmilquetoast_emax_20Numa096f68a238cf1070b4849d1367c88db.jpg
The patient requested 'fuller' teeth with slightly rounded edges, shade BL2. When I went to wax up, I realized the preps were very conservative, with only .5 incisal reduction, so I waxed full contour, hoping for a conservative overlay.
A wise technician once told me that for trouble free emax presses, use Ivoclar's furnace...how right he was;)
I now need some advice as I start over. I really don't like LT BL2 ingots...they are very dead. Do you guys think I can get by with HT, since there was minimal reduction?
http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/...rs 5 thru 11 and 13/DSC_1218.jpg?t=1270750527
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sixonice

sixonice

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Yes, I think the HT BL2 ingots would work here, you may even go with the HT BL1 and leave yourself a little "wiggle room" to back off on the value if needed. If your preps are not any darler than say A3 or so, you should be good. The LT ingots are lower translucency and the bleach shades, with their higher value, make them look more opaque then say an A1 or B1. With incisal porcelain layered, alot of than higher value will get toned down. It is just the "nature of the beast" when your dealing with bleach shades. Even with .5mm incisal reduction, these will press for you.
 
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normanmilquetoast

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Thanks Six,
You had given me some parameters for my QEX which have worked wonderfully.
This case however mispressed (see above link). Do you if there is much difference when pressing HT and LT? I notice there is slight parameter differences in the manual. This time I went with 945 high, 25min hold, 9min press and it was way short (200gram ring w/ 4 crowns each).
I also noticed that there was no reaction layer. Al's pics don't seem to have one either. I've press quite a few posterior HT onlays with a fairly significant reaction layer...I thought this was normal.
 
Al.

Al.

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Nice wax up, sorry you had a miss press.

I press with the same program for all emax ingots, but I do see a much lighter reaction layer on HT. Often Ht has a very minimal layer.

Let us know how it comes out using HT on that case.
If you did go with LT it looks like you have plenty of room to build out the height of contours with incisal especially since she requested more fuller teeth.

Here is a case I have to deliver Mon. I will press it this afternoon in BL3.

I didnt cut back the wax because the retention isnt great and I figure I have a good chance of distorting the wax so I invested it full contour and Ill cut it back with stones.


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sixonice

sixonice

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Thanks Six,
You had given me some parameters for my QEX which have worked wonderfully.
This case however mispressed (see above link). Do you if there is much difference when pressing HT and LT? I notice there is slight parameter differences in the manual. This time I went with 945 high, 25min hold, 9min press and it was way short (200gram ring w/ 4 crowns each).
I also noticed that there was no reaction layer. Al's pics don't seem to have one either. I've press quite a few posterior HT onlays with a fairly significant reaction layer...I thought this was normal.

I am sorry about your mispress also! Glad the specs for the QEX have been working for you, but unfortunately it can be a bit risky in an oven other than the OEM. I wouldn't switch your parameters around from LT to HT as Al mentioned. It is all still Lithium Disilicate! I like all your specs, but it defintely sounded like a "cold press" for sure. There still should be some reaction layer. If it were me I would bump the high temp maybe 10 degrees on your large rings and keep everything else the same. Changing too many specs and you may not know what corrected the issue. Review your burnout also (I am assuming you used a sppedy set?). With (2) 200gm rings those should have burned out a MINIMUM of 90 minutes before you even pressed the first ring. 1hr & 45min would have been when I pressed the first ring. Burnout temp of 1565F.
 
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