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Lab talk, the good, the bad, and the ugly
Zirconium
Zirconia Staining Lacks Gray and Too Yellow. Looking For Solution or Better Product
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<blockquote data-quote="CoolHandLuke" data-source="post: 115158" data-attributes="member: 4850"><p>the vita kit works for a couple shades and thats all. </p><p></p><p>then again, most kits operate like that.</p><p></p><p>most of us however seem to agree that Zirkonzahn makes 2 worthwhile kits: water based colour, and acid based colour.</p><p></p><p>the differences are not subtle. in the water based kit, you can see each brushstroke you make, as the stuff has some colour as it is brushed on. the oranges are orange. the blues are blue. the yellows are varying degrees of yellow.</p><p></p><p>and so forth. this water kit is a great kit for two kinds of people: the kind of person who has a perfect design straight out of the mill with nothing to trim, and the kind of person who is selling fully coloured items out of the sintering oven.</p><p></p><p>that being said, the acid based kit has the same principle of operation, but the colours do not easily show up on the zirconia when you brush them on. so a different technique must be employed to ensure consistency and accuracy. the way i developed (but no longer work for the company) was to apply the dipping technique as well as the brushing technique, AND applying translucency via a 3rd kit.</p><p></p><p>so the way this works is you discover the layer of stain you desire, so for example A2 incisal, A3 neck and A3.5 ging. what you can do is one of two applications, based on your ceramist and how comfortable they are with your results.</p><p></p><p>1. you can dip for exactly 4 seconds in A3, and apply DK Translucency from the Tanaka stain kit (about 3 strokes) and apply A3 tanaka fluid upon the ging highlights. post sintering, this is pretty accurate.</p><p></p><p>2. you can dip for exactly 4 seconds in A2, and apply LT translucency from the Tanaka stain kit (two strokes) and apply A3 tanaka on the ging highlights. this results in a crown a slightly lighter and slightly more opacious. some ceramists prefer making lighter colours to make it easier to match emax adjacent teeth for example.</p><p></p><p>the difference between DK and LT translucency in the Tanaka (from what we have found) is the amount of translucency or greying added. LT adds less, and DK adds a lot. thats about as much as i can tell you from experience.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="CoolHandLuke, post: 115158, member: 4850"] the vita kit works for a couple shades and thats all. then again, most kits operate like that. most of us however seem to agree that Zirkonzahn makes 2 worthwhile kits: water based colour, and acid based colour. the differences are not subtle. in the water based kit, you can see each brushstroke you make, as the stuff has some colour as it is brushed on. the oranges are orange. the blues are blue. the yellows are varying degrees of yellow. and so forth. this water kit is a great kit for two kinds of people: the kind of person who has a perfect design straight out of the mill with nothing to trim, and the kind of person who is selling fully coloured items out of the sintering oven. that being said, the acid based kit has the same principle of operation, but the colours do not easily show up on the zirconia when you brush them on. so a different technique must be employed to ensure consistency and accuracy. the way i developed (but no longer work for the company) was to apply the dipping technique as well as the brushing technique, AND applying translucency via a 3rd kit. so the way this works is you discover the layer of stain you desire, so for example A2 incisal, A3 neck and A3.5 ging. what you can do is one of two applications, based on your ceramist and how comfortable they are with your results. 1. you can dip for exactly 4 seconds in A3, and apply DK Translucency from the Tanaka stain kit (about 3 strokes) and apply A3 tanaka fluid upon the ging highlights. post sintering, this is pretty accurate. 2. you can dip for exactly 4 seconds in A2, and apply LT translucency from the Tanaka stain kit (two strokes) and apply A3 tanaka on the ging highlights. this results in a crown a slightly lighter and slightly more opacious. some ceramists prefer making lighter colours to make it easier to match emax adjacent teeth for example. the difference between DK and LT translucency in the Tanaka (from what we have found) is the amount of translucency or greying added. LT adds less, and DK adds a lot. thats about as much as i can tell you from experience. [/QUOTE]
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Lab talk, the good, the bad, and the ugly
Zirconium
Zirconia Staining Lacks Gray and Too Yellow. Looking For Solution or Better Product
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