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<blockquote data-quote="Clear Precision Dental" data-source="post: 12193" data-attributes="member: 499"><p>I started using Polycril by MDC as a substitute for Pumice (25 lbs for $39.50). It works so much better than pumice, is cheaper and has a little powdered bleach mixed in (just makes me feel better). I high shine with Shure-Shine by National Keystone (2 lb brick for $8.95). I use a steam cleaner right before sealing.</p><p></p><p>I heat seal the restorations in bags with a clear or light orange mouthwash, ie Oxyfresh (clear) or Listerine (citrus). Back in the 80's we used Scope or Listerine (green or blue),but the food coloring tint would lightly stick to the teeth or interproximal. It easily buffed off, but looked like mold when someone would open the bag. Not a good presentation of a fine acrylic work of art, if you ask me.</p><p></p><p>I also like using the Pindex to mount my removable casts. I use the short brass single pins and the grey acrylic sleeves. If I have to remount, it is as easy as grabbing a few new sleeves. I can also remove the casts when I am doing the final waxing, no base or articulator to lug around. If I am careful when I devest, the pins will allow me to remount very easily after processing.</p><p></p><p>Speaking of waxing, I also spay a little Armor All (the car stuff for making vinyl shine) on a 2x2 gauze and buff the wax when I have the wax up nearly completed. It actually helps polish the wax (the cotton is abrasive and the Armor All provides lubrication). With the slight film left, the final wax carving is then done, and the film prevents the little carving flakes from sticking back to the wax-up. The flakes can be blown off with a little compressed air. Since I keep the film to a minimum, the Armor All has never caused any contamination problems when I invest. This technique works on all wax-ups, (removable or fixed).</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Clear Precision Dental, post: 12193, member: 499"] I started using Polycril by MDC as a substitute for Pumice (25 lbs for $39.50). It works so much better than pumice, is cheaper and has a little powdered bleach mixed in (just makes me feel better). I high shine with Shure-Shine by National Keystone (2 lb brick for $8.95). I use a steam cleaner right before sealing. I heat seal the restorations in bags with a clear or light orange mouthwash, ie Oxyfresh (clear) or Listerine (citrus). Back in the 80's we used Scope or Listerine (green or blue),but the food coloring tint would lightly stick to the teeth or interproximal. It easily buffed off, but looked like mold when someone would open the bag. Not a good presentation of a fine acrylic work of art, if you ask me. I also like using the Pindex to mount my removable casts. I use the short brass single pins and the grey acrylic sleeves. If I have to remount, it is as easy as grabbing a few new sleeves. I can also remove the casts when I am doing the final waxing, no base or articulator to lug around. If I am careful when I devest, the pins will allow me to remount very easily after processing. Speaking of waxing, I also spay a little Armor All (the car stuff for making vinyl shine) on a 2x2 gauze and buff the wax when I have the wax up nearly completed. It actually helps polish the wax (the cotton is abrasive and the Armor All provides lubrication). With the slight film left, the final wax carving is then done, and the film prevents the little carving flakes from sticking back to the wax-up. The flakes can be blown off with a little compressed air. Since I keep the film to a minimum, the Armor All has never caused any contamination problems when I invest. This technique works on all wax-ups, (removable or fixed). [/QUOTE]
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