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Seeking advice on packing frames
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<blockquote data-quote="Denturepropgh" data-source="post: 264875" data-attributes="member: 5620"><p>I watched a video from Tom Zaleski a while back, and I picked up a few really good tips from him. As Doris has previously stated in this thread, it is best to work your way up to a sufficiently packed case, whether it is a partial or a full denture. So for the very first pack, I intentionally under pack. I usually like to trial pack SLOWLY INCREASING THE PSI at least 3 times, and everytime I open the flask, I TRIM THE FLASH, and I add a little bit more acrylic, so I'm working my way up to a fully packed case. When I finally get to a very shiny surface where I can definitively see the anatomy of the cast, and acrylic flash extends beyond the areas I have packed, with a bard parker (surgical scalpel) I get as close as possible and make sure I get every freaking speck of flash cleaned up before final closure. The reason being is if that extra flash polymerizes during the cure, then you will definitely be opening the vertical dimension of occlusion and you will be extending your finishing time by at least 15-20 min. I don't care if you pressed to 5000 psi. or how the case is clamped for the curing process, if there is excess flash, you'll be a grinding fool! When I process in this manner, I rarely need to do any occlusal adjustments other than a quick check of excursions for equal balance.</p><p></p><p>Another tip from Tom Z. is sometimes if the acrylic is a little tacky still, you can roll your trial packing sheet between your hands and make it into a little ball. Then you spread it back out and place it on the cast before you press. The whole purpose of this is that it relieves the surface tension of the plastic sheet, and then (tada!) your plastic won't stick to your acrylic during packing. If it does, you def. need to let the acrylic rest a bit more before trial packing.</p><p></p><p>And one last thing, when I do my final closure I only apply the slightest bit more pressure before I put it in the press for curing. I don't want any more flash, but I do want a good bond between the base and the teeth. The max time that I let the pneumatic press apply pressure for final closure is like 2 seconds max. Then I put it in the flask press, crank it down, and I back off 1/4 of a turn, bench set for 10 min. to achieve a good chemical bond between base and teeth, and cure for the recommended time. Using these methods, I have "pretty" much no problems. I mean, there will ALWAYS be problems, but this method has really helped me out. </p><p></p><p>My golden rule is that a few extra minutes spent on one procedure may save you 30 or more down the road!</p><p></p><p>Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Denturepropgh, post: 264875, member: 5620"] I watched a video from Tom Zaleski a while back, and I picked up a few really good tips from him. As Doris has previously stated in this thread, it is best to work your way up to a sufficiently packed case, whether it is a partial or a full denture. So for the very first pack, I intentionally under pack. I usually like to trial pack SLOWLY INCREASING THE PSI at least 3 times, and everytime I open the flask, I TRIM THE FLASH, and I add a little bit more acrylic, so I'm working my way up to a fully packed case. When I finally get to a very shiny surface where I can definitively see the anatomy of the cast, and acrylic flash extends beyond the areas I have packed, with a bard parker (surgical scalpel) I get as close as possible and make sure I get every freaking speck of flash cleaned up before final closure. The reason being is if that extra flash polymerizes during the cure, then you will definitely be opening the vertical dimension of occlusion and you will be extending your finishing time by at least 15-20 min. I don't care if you pressed to 5000 psi. or how the case is clamped for the curing process, if there is excess flash, you'll be a grinding fool! When I process in this manner, I rarely need to do any occlusal adjustments other than a quick check of excursions for equal balance. Another tip from Tom Z. is sometimes if the acrylic is a little tacky still, you can roll your trial packing sheet between your hands and make it into a little ball. Then you spread it back out and place it on the cast before you press. The whole purpose of this is that it relieves the surface tension of the plastic sheet, and then (tada!) your plastic won't stick to your acrylic during packing. If it does, you def. need to let the acrylic rest a bit more before trial packing. And one last thing, when I do my final closure I only apply the slightest bit more pressure before I put it in the press for curing. I don't want any more flash, but I do want a good bond between the base and the teeth. The max time that I let the pneumatic press apply pressure for final closure is like 2 seconds max. Then I put it in the flask press, crank it down, and I back off 1/4 of a turn, bench set for 10 min. to achieve a good chemical bond between base and teeth, and cure for the recommended time. Using these methods, I have "pretty" much no problems. I mean, there will ALWAYS be problems, but this method has really helped me out. My golden rule is that a few extra minutes spent on one procedure may save you 30 or more down the road! Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk [/QUOTE]
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