keycast resin not burning out cleanly / alternate castable resins?

[tuyere]

We're starting to explore printable waxes for casting bridges, but we've had lousy results with keystone keycast so far. Turns out it isn't validated for the Dreve LCD curing units we prefer to use, and after curing it on a validated otoflash, it won't burn out cleanly. We've tried the exact burnout programme the manufacturer stipulates, as well as trying hotter burnouts we'd normally use for conventional wax, and all of them left behind an unacceptable amount of ash/debris.
Any tips for how to get better results? Alternately, does anybody have a product they prefer, we probably need to change it up because Keycast doesn't work well with our lab equipment / setup.

 

[Andrew Priddy]

check if Optiprint Zero is validated

 

[ztech]

Best I have found so far is Formlabs Castable Wax. A little finicky on the print and very viscous so print has to be slow, but burns out perfectly for alloy casting and only an occasional pit when pressed with Lithium Disilicate. Unfortunately on the Lithium Disilicate, we all know where that pit ends up. Working on parameters now for BlueCast X-One. Very high wax content and low viscosity. Pressing are coming out clean and smooth. I haven't got the print to where I can use it in production though, fine line on sharp detail and missed print.

 

[Sda36]

We're starting to explore printable waxes for casting bridges, but we've had lousy results with keystone keycast so far. Turns out it isn't validated for the Dreve LCD curing units we prefer to use, and after curing it on a validated otoflash, it won't burn out cleanly. We've tried the exact burnout programme the manufacturer stipulates, as well as trying hotter burnouts we'd normally use for conventional wax, and all of them left behind an unacceptable amount of ash/debris.
Any tips for how to get better results? Alternately, does anybody have a product they prefer, we probably need to change it up because Keycast doesn't work well with our lab equipment / setup.

Seriously, although a major pain, right now, take rings up to normal cycle high temp and let finish. When cool, air blast / suction out the cavity. Return to program for burnout or a maybe higher direct heat ramp to H T and regular hold. Not really sure at all what nature of the contaminants are or what that can produce into the product. Weird though, probably a photo sensitive material we're not used to having to deal with during burnout cycles.

 

[Snapper]

were on the BlueCast X-One with the Phrozen mini 8k printer, having clean Emax results
the fit is great, I'm slowing the burnout climb rate to 7ish Deg C/minute to avoid mould cracks and also found success with heat shock at 840c, I'm sure there are other great resins on offer but this has worked accurately for the last few months

 

[ztech]

were on the BlueCast X-One with the Phrozen mini 8k printer, having clean Emax results
the fit is great, I'm slowing the burnout climb rate to 7ish Deg C/minute to avoid mould cracks and also found success with heat shock at 840c, I'm sure there are other great resins on offer but this has worked accurately for the last few months

I haven't gotten consistent prints with this yet, do you mind sharing print parameters?

 

[Snapper]

My parameters were derived off the resins website for Chutubox slicer for Phrozen mini 8k
only possible changes were Exposure time

Layer Height .03
Bottom layer count 6
Exposure time 7.9
Bottom exposure time 24
Rest time before Lift .2
Rest time after Lift .2
Rest time after retract .8
We also use the Hi-Def resin setting with good outcome

on completion- 99% Ethanol wash - 8-10mins ultrasonic - blow dry - place over vacuum inlet or air gun for 6mins until light grey colour
- zero light curing -Nil

The joys of non dental printers! - Learn and tweak,tweak,tweak