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Heat cure versus cold cure partials
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<blockquote data-quote="Brian" data-source="post: 15757" data-attributes="member: 12"><p>I have waffled about this for a few months now.. As refinement continues in acrylics auto cure is not quite what it once was.... Take Pro Base Cold from Ivoclar, that is some tough dense stuff especially when you flask it and cold pack (leaving under the press). Also it's very color stable... Look at Candulor? </p><p>Their autoplast is extremely nice and is a standard on the other side of the big pond... </p><p></p><p> Depending on the saddle area, sometimes I will use the ProBase... Free ends I will Ivocap.. I wouldn't use the pour technique.. </p><p></p><p> I really don't know if there is a right or wrong answer? </p><p></p><p>If I were to use auto cure as a standard I would definitely look into Candulor's Poly Master. Go to the site and watch the video.. Or maybe Ted could post the video here if that would be okay with Travis?</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Brian, post: 15757, member: 12"] I have waffled about this for a few months now.. As refinement continues in acrylics auto cure is not quite what it once was.... Take Pro Base Cold from Ivoclar, that is some tough dense stuff especially when you flask it and cold pack (leaving under the press). Also it's very color stable... Look at Candulor? Their autoplast is extremely nice and is a standard on the other side of the big pond... Depending on the saddle area, sometimes I will use the ProBase... Free ends I will Ivocap.. I wouldn't use the pour technique.. I really don't know if there is a right or wrong answer? If I were to use auto cure as a standard I would definitely look into Candulor's Poly Master. Go to the site and watch the video.. Or maybe Ted could post the video here if that would be okay with Travis? [/QUOTE]
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