Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
New posts
Latest activity
Articles
Members
Current visitors
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles only
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Forums
Community discussion
Case Presentations
Full Arch Splint On Custom Abutments
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="Al." data-source="post: 41386" data-attributes="member: 382"><p>The Dr wanted type 4 gold, so I used Harmony XH. Never used it before but it worked well.</p><p>I dont know if the little extra sprues going to the margins were necessary but I have had a couple of short castings on ucla abutments before, but never when I add them.</p><p></p><p>Yeah polished it then sandblasted it. Thats exactly what the Dr wanted, he sent me pics of abutments other labs made for him to use as a guide.</p><p></p><p>First time I isolated the polished part with my finger, but that didnt work out too well, so I used red sticky wax, blasted then ran it under cold water then picked off the wax. Prpblem with that is it scratches the metal when you pick off the wax and it is time consuming so I was thinking about mabey ordering and trying the removable die spacer.</p><p></p><p>I really dont know why I sprue everything thats just the way I was taught in lab school and what all the books said.</p><p></p><p>For the wax after it was finished I disconnected everything then reconnected with wax. A spot at a time. Then I removed it a few times to check for draw.</p><p>I pushed it really easy to check to see if it would seat without having to flex to go down all the way.</p><p></p><p>Then I cut it again, rechecked the margins then I tacked each joint at the gin with GC pattern resin let it set the tacked some more till the entire joint was done.</p><p></p><p>Then pulled it on and off a few times and rechecked the margin and fit.</p><p></p><p>If it had distal molar abutments and was longer span I would cast it in sections and have it laser welded.</p><p></p><p>I read an article where the tech did not connect the runner bars and made sure there was min to no button to reduce the warpage that happens when then the molten casting solidifies and cools so I tried that here. I only ended up with a the sprues being barely connected at the former,they broke apart easily by hand, so really no button.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Al., post: 41386, member: 382"] The Dr wanted type 4 gold, so I used Harmony XH. Never used it before but it worked well. I dont know if the little extra sprues going to the margins were necessary but I have had a couple of short castings on ucla abutments before, but never when I add them. Yeah polished it then sandblasted it. Thats exactly what the Dr wanted, he sent me pics of abutments other labs made for him to use as a guide. First time I isolated the polished part with my finger, but that didnt work out too well, so I used red sticky wax, blasted then ran it under cold water then picked off the wax. Prpblem with that is it scratches the metal when you pick off the wax and it is time consuming so I was thinking about mabey ordering and trying the removable die spacer. I really dont know why I sprue everything thats just the way I was taught in lab school and what all the books said. For the wax after it was finished I disconnected everything then reconnected with wax. A spot at a time. Then I removed it a few times to check for draw. I pushed it really easy to check to see if it would seat without having to flex to go down all the way. Then I cut it again, rechecked the margins then I tacked each joint at the gin with GC pattern resin let it set the tacked some more till the entire joint was done. Then pulled it on and off a few times and rechecked the margin and fit. If it had distal molar abutments and was longer span I would cast it in sections and have it laser welded. I read an article where the tech did not connect the runner bars and made sure there was min to no button to reduce the warpage that happens when then the molten casting solidifies and cools so I tried that here. I only ended up with a the sprues being barely connected at the former,they broke apart easily by hand, so really no button. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Who do we work for?
Post reply
Forums
Community discussion
Case Presentations
Full Arch Splint On Custom Abutments
Top
Bottom