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Beading and Boxing methods
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<blockquote data-quote="Patrick Coon" data-source="post: 236429" data-attributes="member: 11366"><p>50/50 mix of plaster and pumice mixed thick, use it to make patty and set impression in patty. Smooth edges and tongue space with spatula and allow 5 minutes to set. Gently trim to desired land area dimensions with cast trimmer and box with boxing wax. Apply thin coat of separator to pumice/plaster land are and pour.</p><p></p><p>The pumice added to the plaster weakens it enough to be able to break the plaster away from the tray and cast after the stone has set.</p><p></p><p>Learned this method in school back in the late 80's. Used many other techniques, including wondercrap (I mean wonderfil),alginate in a plaster bowl, rope and boxing wax, and probably a few more I can't remember. I always still go back to the plaster/pumice method. Easy to control, stable, gives you back what you put into it. I'll see if I can find some old instructional photos and post them.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Patrick Coon, post: 236429, member: 11366"] 50/50 mix of plaster and pumice mixed thick, use it to make patty and set impression in patty. Smooth edges and tongue space with spatula and allow 5 minutes to set. Gently trim to desired land area dimensions with cast trimmer and box with boxing wax. Apply thin coat of separator to pumice/plaster land are and pour. The pumice added to the plaster weakens it enough to be able to break the plaster away from the tray and cast after the stone has set. Learned this method in school back in the late 80's. Used many other techniques, including wondercrap (I mean wonderfil),alginate in a plaster bowl, rope and boxing wax, and probably a few more I can't remember. I always still go back to the plaster/pumice method. Easy to control, stable, gives you back what you put into it. I'll see if I can find some old instructional photos and post them. [/QUOTE]
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