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Lab talk, the good, the bad, and the ugly
3D Printer
Printing issues
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<blockquote data-quote="tuyere" data-source="post: 369199" data-attributes="member: 26916"><p>Missed your questions, sorry - I wouldn't use that latticed cube from the siraya test part to check your scale factor, it's too compressible and is printed at a weird angle so the faces don't align with the axes we care about. It's more of a 'torture test', a delicate part that will show defects readily if your exposure settings aren't dialled in. Also gives you something neat to play with afterwards, those little lattice cubes end up all over the lab after a while, people seem to like them. </p><p>I'd be happy to sell you my own designs, but I'm not set up for that at the moment. I'll put something together. In the meantime, grab any generic calibration cube from a hobbyist site like Thingiverse: <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=calibration+cube&page=1&sort=popular" target="_blank">https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=calibration+cube&page=1&sort=popular</a> You don't need to print a 20mm cube 20mm high, that's a lot of material, I would scale the part in the z-axis only down to 0.75, 0.5 or so, so you get a faster print. </p><p></p><p>Also: the other features on that diagnostic part give you useful information, you can check the 10mm line to make sure it's actually 10mm- do this while the part is on the plate, it'll curl when removed and ruin the measurement (that's why cubes are nice, they don't distort after printing). Look at the fine features under a microscope, it looks to me like you might be overexposing, the very fine engraved crosses seem to be filled in. Hard to tell from the picture. </p><p>For general exposure and print setting checks, the Ameralabs city is very good, but it has nothing to check the scale with. Typically I couple the city with a calibration cube, and that covers all the bases reasonably well.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="tuyere, post: 369199, member: 26916"] Missed your questions, sorry - I wouldn't use that latticed cube from the siraya test part to check your scale factor, it's too compressible and is printed at a weird angle so the faces don't align with the axes we care about. It's more of a 'torture test', a delicate part that will show defects readily if your exposure settings aren't dialled in. Also gives you something neat to play with afterwards, those little lattice cubes end up all over the lab after a while, people seem to like them. I'd be happy to sell you my own designs, but I'm not set up for that at the moment. I'll put something together. In the meantime, grab any generic calibration cube from a hobbyist site like Thingiverse: [URL]https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=calibration+cube&page=1&sort=popular[/URL] You don't need to print a 20mm cube 20mm high, that's a lot of material, I would scale the part in the z-axis only down to 0.75, 0.5 or so, so you get a faster print. Also: the other features on that diagnostic part give you useful information, you can check the 10mm line to make sure it's actually 10mm- do this while the part is on the plate, it'll curl when removed and ruin the measurement (that's why cubes are nice, they don't distort after printing). Look at the fine features under a microscope, it looks to me like you might be overexposing, the very fine engraved crosses seem to be filled in. Hard to tell from the picture. For general exposure and print setting checks, the Ameralabs city is very good, but it has nothing to check the scale with. Typically I couple the city with a calibration cube, and that covers all the bases reasonably well. [/QUOTE]
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