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Lab talk, the good, the bad, and the ugly
Porcelain
How to do refractory models?
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<blockquote data-quote="JMN" data-source="post: 205004" data-attributes="member: 8469"><p>What I did was pour in diestone, drill, then pin. normal bi-pins on parts not needing to be refractory, ceramic pins where they needed to be refractory. The ceramic pins are teardrop shaped and taper as they go apically 'down'. </p><p></p><p>With a straight burr cut positioning anti-rotation dents pn the underside as divots or half-moon grooves on apical/facial under-corner and again on lingual/palatal/back.</p><p></p><p>Vaseline very lightly, (dont even dip your brush again if ypu have a small brush set aside for that) on the ceramic pins (micro-texture issues sometimes) and use supersep or whatever stone separator agent you like.</p><p></p><p>Pour base, saw normally and tri, dies. Paint 3 layers of 0 agstrom Euro Die Sealer on the dies to be refractory.</p><p></p><p>The fun part: Cut a plastic graduated cylinder like comes with most investment for liquid measurement abput 2-3 mm taller than the dies are above the base. Remove everything frpm the base and coat it in vaseline, not heavy at all, just no bare stone. </p><p>Place to-be-refractory dies on base. Grab a bit of light cure baseplate material and put it arpund the bottom of the chopped graduated cylinder, press it to tje base and lightcure.</p><p>Now you've a solid, repeatably placeable matrix holder. Put a sprue of wax towards the back/center of the base connecting the die(s) and the cylinder wall. Outline the wax with a sharpie.</p><p>Pour your favorite silicone dup material into the top of the cylinder and go to lunch <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /></p><p></p><p>After silicone sets, remove the die/cylinder/silicone set from the base. Cut a hole where the wax sprue is outlined and rempve the wax before the die. Wax just pulls out with a discoid.</p><p>Remove die and wait a bit for silicoe to return to rest shape. Take a labknife burr or whatever and complete yhe hole from the ceramic pins to the bottom of the base f0r dust evacuation with air pressure.</p><p>Apply debublizer 0f chioce tp inside of silicone.</p><p>verify vaseline layer and reapply if needed under die/silicone area. Put new ceramic pins in their holes after putting the tiny vaseline layer on the shaft only-not the head.</p><p>Pour refractory material into silicone until it nears spruehole. Attach to the base and finish pouring through spruehole.</p><p></p><p>After refractory sets, rem0ve the material of the cylinder and lighycure beneath the spruehole.</p><p>Refractory die slides out and break/grind off the sprue.</p><p></p><p>Whew!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="JMN, post: 205004, member: 8469"] What I did was pour in diestone, drill, then pin. normal bi-pins on parts not needing to be refractory, ceramic pins where they needed to be refractory. The ceramic pins are teardrop shaped and taper as they go apically 'down'. With a straight burr cut positioning anti-rotation dents pn the underside as divots or half-moon grooves on apical/facial under-corner and again on lingual/palatal/back. Vaseline very lightly, (dont even dip your brush again if ypu have a small brush set aside for that) on the ceramic pins (micro-texture issues sometimes) and use supersep or whatever stone separator agent you like. Pour base, saw normally and tri, dies. Paint 3 layers of 0 agstrom Euro Die Sealer on the dies to be refractory. The fun part: Cut a plastic graduated cylinder like comes with most investment for liquid measurement abput 2-3 mm taller than the dies are above the base. Remove everything frpm the base and coat it in vaseline, not heavy at all, just no bare stone. Place to-be-refractory dies on base. Grab a bit of light cure baseplate material and put it arpund the bottom of the chopped graduated cylinder, press it to tje base and lightcure. Now you've a solid, repeatably placeable matrix holder. Put a sprue of wax towards the back/center of the base connecting the die(s) and the cylinder wall. Outline the wax with a sharpie. Pour your favorite silicone dup material into the top of the cylinder and go to lunch :) After silicone sets, remove the die/cylinder/silicone set from the base. Cut a hole where the wax sprue is outlined and rempve the wax before the die. Wax just pulls out with a discoid. Remove die and wait a bit for silicoe to return to rest shape. Take a labknife burr or whatever and complete yhe hole from the ceramic pins to the bottom of the base f0r dust evacuation with air pressure. Apply debublizer 0f chioce tp inside of silicone. verify vaseline layer and reapply if needed under die/silicone area. Put new ceramic pins in their holes after putting the tiny vaseline layer on the shaft only-not the head. Pour refractory material into silicone until it nears spruehole. Attach to the base and finish pouring through spruehole. After refractory sets, rem0ve the material of the cylinder and lighycure beneath the spruehole. Refractory die slides out and break/grind off the sprue. Whew! [/QUOTE]
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Lab talk, the good, the bad, and the ugly
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How to do refractory models?
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