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Lab talk, the good, the bad, and the ugly
Metal
centrifuge casting and torch
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<blockquote data-quote="Al." data-source="post: 44237" data-attributes="member: 382"><p>I never thought of casting as old school.</p><p> I think it is still the #1 way most labs make pfms.</p><p></p><p>I would recomend buying the entire casting well cabinet. Mine is metal and heavy so it dosent move if you bolt it to the corner of the wall. No extra counter space for mine just the casting well cabinet.</p><p></p><p>All you do is bolt it to the wall and bolt your casting machine to the bottom into the predrilled holes.</p><p>Bought mine in 1978 and its still doing the job perfect. Im using my 2nd casting machine in as many years.</p><p>Takes less than 1 minute per casting.</p><p></p><p>All you have to dial in is your liquid to water ratio for fits.</p><p></p><p>I go by the glow for precious and semi metals. The second it quits swirling and is ready to get bright white is when I quickly take my ring out of the oven and sling the metal. </p><p>For NP when it slums and starts to move in a semi fluid state I sling it.</p><p>I use double the O2 for np as semi or precious. Semi or pd needs to be a bit hotter and since it is lighter needs a bit more metal to push it all in. Also for pd I keep the thin spots .3 or above (prefer above) or you may get short castings.</p><p>For pd I leave a slight metal band or thicker or you may have short margins, then I cut it back.</p><p>Also for splints esp for pd you for sure need runner bar with 8 ga sprues on the runner bar that connects to the former to keep the porosity of the pontics or splint and in the bottom of the runner bar. HN isnt as sensitave to porosity for me but still I sprue the same for bridges.</p><p></p><p>For NP you always need a larger button it is a light metal and need the weight to get complete casting, Never reuse your NP buttons !!! Trash them.</p><p></p><p>For singles I always use a runner bar but I put the runner bar directly on the former, no sprues from the bar to the former. And for singles I use the 8 ga wax sprues for runner bars but splints I use the plastic runner bars for stability of the wax. For larger bridges I use gc resin pattern to reconnect the cut connections.</p><p></p><p>I never used gloves but for the rings in the back of the furnace you have to grab them fairly quick or youll singe the hairs on your fingers. Done that alot but never burned myself.</p><p></p><p>I bet best and most consistant resuts especially for splints with slower 2 stage burnouts.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Al., post: 44237, member: 382"] I never thought of casting as old school. I think it is still the #1 way most labs make pfms. I would recomend buying the entire casting well cabinet. Mine is metal and heavy so it dosent move if you bolt it to the corner of the wall. No extra counter space for mine just the casting well cabinet. All you do is bolt it to the wall and bolt your casting machine to the bottom into the predrilled holes. Bought mine in 1978 and its still doing the job perfect. Im using my 2nd casting machine in as many years. Takes less than 1 minute per casting. All you have to dial in is your liquid to water ratio for fits. I go by the glow for precious and semi metals. The second it quits swirling and is ready to get bright white is when I quickly take my ring out of the oven and sling the metal. For NP when it slums and starts to move in a semi fluid state I sling it. I use double the O2 for np as semi or precious. Semi or pd needs to be a bit hotter and since it is lighter needs a bit more metal to push it all in. Also for pd I keep the thin spots .3 or above (prefer above) or you may get short castings. For pd I leave a slight metal band or thicker or you may have short margins, then I cut it back. Also for splints esp for pd you for sure need runner bar with 8 ga sprues on the runner bar that connects to the former to keep the porosity of the pontics or splint and in the bottom of the runner bar. HN isnt as sensitave to porosity for me but still I sprue the same for bridges. For NP you always need a larger button it is a light metal and need the weight to get complete casting, Never reuse your NP buttons !!! Trash them. For singles I always use a runner bar but I put the runner bar directly on the former, no sprues from the bar to the former. And for singles I use the 8 ga wax sprues for runner bars but splints I use the plastic runner bars for stability of the wax. For larger bridges I use gc resin pattern to reconnect the cut connections. I never used gloves but for the rings in the back of the furnace you have to grab them fairly quick or youll singe the hairs on your fingers. Done that alot but never burned myself. I bet best and most consistant resuts especially for splints with slower 2 stage burnouts. [/QUOTE]
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Lab talk, the good, the bad, and the ugly
Metal
centrifuge casting and torch
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