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Lab talk, the good, the bad, and the ugly
Equipment
Camera Flash Question
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<blockquote data-quote="Greg Lutke" data-source="post: 269273" data-attributes="member: 14256"><p>Username, conversations about cameras and photography tend to drift away from the basics of dental needs. I do hope this helps simplify your needs, with the Nikon 105 mm lens and the R1C1 flash that you have.</p><p></p><p>I would say the important parts of dental photography - flash based, macro (up close) photography are:</p><p></p><p>1. EXPOSURE CONTROL. Only use a camera body with <strong><em>TTL technology</em></strong> built in. TTL is a technology that helps with exposure – or makes certain you don’t over or under expose you teeth, face, or restorations on a model. This TTL technology is only very important in flash assisted photography. You need to buy a model from Nikon (in your case) that has TTL built into the body. I recommended a D300 as the least expensive body that fully has TTL. **The other Nikon bodies you listed did not have TTL technology built into those cameras. Lastly, make sure your S800 Commander is set to TTL and the channels are set on the Commander to match the R200's.</p><p></p><p>2. ACCURATE COLOR. You will need to do a 5 minute task with your camera and flash. This is called a ‘<strong><em>Custom White Balance</em></strong>.’ This quick step will neutralize the tint from your flash – and the resulting JPGs will be color accurate. After capturing your custom white balance, you must set the camera white balance to Custom, in the camera menu. Although seemingly simple – this is the one and only way to get accurate color in dentistry. A1 will be accurate and different than B1. Skin tones will be perfect and accurate.</p><p></p><p>3. Set your camera’s program to <strong><em>Aperture Priority</em></strong>. This will lock down everything except the f/stop. In general, f/stops of 4-10 are for face shots, while f/stops of 36-40 are for up close shots. Higher f/stops result in higher depth-of-field (really good for dental). In dentistry the up close shots are commonly called 1:1 and 1:2. Face shots are commonly called 1:10</p><p></p><p>4. The last quality step is <strong><em>camera stability</em></strong>. If you can use a tripod or monopod during capture, your resulting pictures will be their most crisp and sharp. This is less important than the first 3 – but will make a huge difference after you get everything else setup correctly.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Greg Lutke, post: 269273, member: 14256"] Username, conversations about cameras and photography tend to drift away from the basics of dental needs. I do hope this helps simplify your needs, with the Nikon 105 mm lens and the R1C1 flash that you have. I would say the important parts of dental photography - flash based, macro (up close) photography are: 1. EXPOSURE CONTROL. Only use a camera body with [B][I]TTL technology[/I][/B] built in. TTL is a technology that helps with exposure – or makes certain you don’t over or under expose you teeth, face, or restorations on a model. This TTL technology is only very important in flash assisted photography. You need to buy a model from Nikon (in your case) that has TTL built into the body. I recommended a D300 as the least expensive body that fully has TTL. **The other Nikon bodies you listed did not have TTL technology built into those cameras. Lastly, make sure your S800 Commander is set to TTL and the channels are set on the Commander to match the R200's. 2. ACCURATE COLOR. You will need to do a 5 minute task with your camera and flash. This is called a ‘[B][I]Custom White Balance[/I][/B].’ This quick step will neutralize the tint from your flash – and the resulting JPGs will be color accurate. After capturing your custom white balance, you must set the camera white balance to Custom, in the camera menu. Although seemingly simple – this is the one and only way to get accurate color in dentistry. A1 will be accurate and different than B1. Skin tones will be perfect and accurate. 3. Set your camera’s program to [B][I]Aperture Priority[/I][/B]. This will lock down everything except the f/stop. In general, f/stops of 4-10 are for face shots, while f/stops of 36-40 are for up close shots. Higher f/stops result in higher depth-of-field (really good for dental). In dentistry the up close shots are commonly called 1:1 and 1:2. Face shots are commonly called 1:10 4. The last quality step is [B][I]camera stability[/I][/B]. If you can use a tripod or monopod during capture, your resulting pictures will be their most crisp and sharp. This is less important than the first 3 – but will make a huge difference after you get everything else setup correctly. [/QUOTE]
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