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<blockquote data-quote="paulg100" data-source="post: 20974" data-attributes="member: 1643"><p>Ok so heres another single central, this time a bonded marland bridge to replace 21.</p><p></p><p>This was my first case in In-Line when i got my kit last year, so took quite a bit of playing about with colours, but the overall result</p><p>turned out pretty well i think.</p><p></p><p>First the pre-op</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]7115[/ATTACH]</p><p>By <a href="http://profile.imageshack.us/user/paulg100" target="_blank">paulg100</a> at 2010-07-17</p><p></p><p>Metal frame</p><p></p><p><img src="http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/4034/frame1.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p>By <a href="http://profile.imageshack.us/user/paulg100" target="_blank">paulg100</a> at 2010-07-17</p><p></p><p>Then the first build.</p><p>Now there was quite alot of translucency on the mesial and distal portions of this tooth.</p><p>A2.5 deep dentine (DD) was used to form the pontic base and neck. A mix of A2.5 DD and A2.5 dentine (D) was used to cover the body of the pontic and finally</p><p>A2.5 D was used to complete the bulk of the pontic. To help the transition between the dentine and incisal a mix of A2.5 D and translucent incisal 1 (TI1) was </p><p>placed at the transition zone and a mixture of TI1 and Effect 15 were used on the mesial and distal aspects to simulate the depth of the natural tooth in these areas.</p><p>TI1 was used for the rest of the incisal region and extended approximately 1mm to allow for shrinkage.</p><p>Mamelon orange/yellow was placed over this in the incisal area then the build up was fired.</p><p></p><p>You will see on the final result that the mix of TI1 and E15 did no acheive the correct amount of translucency and this is not how i would approach this now.</p><p>Since buying Ubassy's book tricks and tips, the use of dentine absorbtion masses by mixing translucent neutral which has no pigments to alter the shade, </p><p>seems alot more effective at getting deep translucency.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]7116[/ATTACH]</p><p>By <a href="http://profile.imageshack.us/user/paulg100" target="_blank">paulg100</a> at 2010-07-17</p><p></p><p>First bisque bake.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]7117[/ATTACH]</p><p>By <a href="http://profile.imageshack.us/user/paulg100" target="_blank">paulg100</a> at 2010-07-17</p><p></p><p>Second enamel layer</p><p></p><p>Once the first build had been refitted to the model a small amount of A2.5 DD was placed under the pontic and compressed into place to complete the</p><p>form of the pontic base. A thin layer of cervical translucent orange was placed at the neck, some bands of Opalescent 3 were placed in the middle and</p><p>cervical thirds and a mixture of TI1 and translucent neutral (TN) were placed over the rest of the build up. Some small amounts of pure TN were also</p><p>added to the incisal mesial and distal corners. This was then fired at a slightly reduced temperature to avoid any further shrinkage of the previous build layer. </p><p></p><p>This 2 stage build up technique allows modification of any internal effects before the final enamel layer is applied, thus avoiding a complete restart of the</p><p>ceramics should the internal effects need intensifying or reducing.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]7118[/ATTACH]</p><p>By <a href="http://profile.imageshack.us/user/paulg100" target="_blank">paulg100</a> at 2010-07-17</p><p></p><p>Second bisque bake before texturing.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]7119[/ATTACH]</p><p>By <a href="http://profile.imageshack.us/user/paulg100" target="_blank">paulg100</a> at 2010-07-17</p><p></p><p>Now a cool trick! this is a filter i found in photoshop during the course of this case. Its the Bas Relief mode under the sketch filter.</p><p>As you can see this has excellent potential for highlighting surface texture. It appears to work from reflected light so you will get variable resluts depending on the photo used, but there is some potential here for sure.</p><p></p><p>I never get on with the silver powder thing as i just find it very messy, so if i can find alternative ways then thats great. The other method of switching off the room lights and using a light either side of the unit also works well in highlighting surface texture.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]7120[/ATTACH]</p><p>By <a href="http://profile.imageshack.us/user/paulg100" target="_blank">paulg100</a> at 2010-07-17</p><p></p><p>Almost complete crown on model</p><p>Once this was treid in, i was able to fine tune the crown with some stains whilist the patient waited.</p><p> </p><p><img src="http://img696.imageshack.us/img696/5032/finishonmodelb4stain.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p>By <a href="http://profile.imageshack.us/user/paulg100" target="_blank">paulg100</a> at 2010-07-17</p><p></p><p>And the fit!</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]7121[/ATTACH]</p><p>By <a href="http://profile.imageshack.us/user/paulg100" target="_blank">paulg100</a> at 2010-07-17</p><p></p><p>Fit image 2 showing white bands.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]7122[/ATTACH]</p><p>By <a href="http://profile.imageshack.us/user/paulg100" target="_blank">paulg100</a> at 2010-07-17</p><p></p><p>Fit close up</p><p>The surface texture was close! but could still be better.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]7123[/ATTACH]</p><p>By <a href="http://profile.imageshack.us/user/paulg100" target="_blank">paulg100</a> at 2010-07-17</p><p></p><p>Im getting much better with in-line since this case and its a great ceramic.</p><p></p><p>As well as the tips and tricks book, another great book for ceramists which helped with this case is </p><p>Shades: A World of Colour by August Brugera (excuse spelling).</p><p></p><p>Ive picked this case to pieces many times in my head, now your turn <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite2" alt=";)" title="Wink ;)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=";)" /></p><p>[ATTACH=full]7115[/ATTACH][ATTACH=full]7116[/ATTACH][ATTACH=full]7117[/ATTACH][ATTACH=full]7118[/ATTACH][ATTACH=full]7119[/ATTACH][ATTACH=full]7120[/ATTACH][ATTACH=full]7121[/ATTACH][ATTACH=full]7122[/ATTACH][ATTACH=full]7123[/ATTACH]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="paulg100, post: 20974, member: 1643"] Ok so heres another single central, this time a bonded marland bridge to replace 21. This was my first case in In-Line when i got my kit last year, so took quite a bit of playing about with colours, but the overall result turned out pretty well i think. First the pre-op [attach=full]7115[/attach] By [URL=http://profile.imageshack.us/user/paulg100]paulg100[/URL] at 2010-07-17 Metal frame [IMG]http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/4034/frame1.jpg[/IMG] By [URL=http://profile.imageshack.us/user/paulg100]paulg100[/URL] at 2010-07-17 Then the first build. Now there was quite alot of translucency on the mesial and distal portions of this tooth. A2.5 deep dentine (DD) was used to form the pontic base and neck. A mix of A2.5 DD and A2.5 dentine (D) was used to cover the body of the pontic and finally A2.5 D was used to complete the bulk of the pontic. To help the transition between the dentine and incisal a mix of A2.5 D and translucent incisal 1 (TI1) was placed at the transition zone and a mixture of TI1 and Effect 15 were used on the mesial and distal aspects to simulate the depth of the natural tooth in these areas. TI1 was used for the rest of the incisal region and extended approximately 1mm to allow for shrinkage. Mamelon orange/yellow was placed over this in the incisal area then the build up was fired. You will see on the final result that the mix of TI1 and E15 did no acheive the correct amount of translucency and this is not how i would approach this now. Since buying Ubassy's book tricks and tips, the use of dentine absorbtion masses by mixing translucent neutral which has no pigments to alter the shade, seems alot more effective at getting deep translucency. [attach=full]7116[/attach] By [URL=http://profile.imageshack.us/user/paulg100]paulg100[/URL] at 2010-07-17 First bisque bake. [attach=full]7117[/attach] By [URL=http://profile.imageshack.us/user/paulg100]paulg100[/URL] at 2010-07-17 Second enamel layer Once the first build had been refitted to the model a small amount of A2.5 DD was placed under the pontic and compressed into place to complete the form of the pontic base. A thin layer of cervical translucent orange was placed at the neck, some bands of Opalescent 3 were placed in the middle and cervical thirds and a mixture of TI1 and translucent neutral (TN) were placed over the rest of the build up. Some small amounts of pure TN were also added to the incisal mesial and distal corners. This was then fired at a slightly reduced temperature to avoid any further shrinkage of the previous build layer. This 2 stage build up technique allows modification of any internal effects before the final enamel layer is applied, thus avoiding a complete restart of the ceramics should the internal effects need intensifying or reducing. [attach=full]7118[/attach] By [URL=http://profile.imageshack.us/user/paulg100]paulg100[/URL] at 2010-07-17 Second bisque bake before texturing. [attach=full]7119[/attach] By [URL=http://profile.imageshack.us/user/paulg100]paulg100[/URL] at 2010-07-17 Now a cool trick! this is a filter i found in photoshop during the course of this case. Its the Bas Relief mode under the sketch filter. As you can see this has excellent potential for highlighting surface texture. It appears to work from reflected light so you will get variable resluts depending on the photo used, but there is some potential here for sure. I never get on with the silver powder thing as i just find it very messy, so if i can find alternative ways then thats great. The other method of switching off the room lights and using a light either side of the unit also works well in highlighting surface texture. [attach=full]7120[/attach] By [URL=http://profile.imageshack.us/user/paulg100]paulg100[/URL] at 2010-07-17 Almost complete crown on model Once this was treid in, i was able to fine tune the crown with some stains whilist the patient waited. [IMG]http://img696.imageshack.us/img696/5032/finishonmodelb4stain.jpg[/IMG] By [URL=http://profile.imageshack.us/user/paulg100]paulg100[/URL] at 2010-07-17 And the fit! [attach=full]7121[/attach] By [URL=http://profile.imageshack.us/user/paulg100]paulg100[/URL] at 2010-07-17 Fit image 2 showing white bands. [attach=full]7122[/attach] By [URL=http://profile.imageshack.us/user/paulg100]paulg100[/URL] at 2010-07-17 Fit close up The surface texture was close! but could still be better. [attach=full]7123[/attach] By [URL=http://profile.imageshack.us/user/paulg100]paulg100[/URL] at 2010-07-17 Im getting much better with in-line since this case and its a great ceramic. As well as the tips and tricks book, another great book for ceramists which helped with this case is Shades: A World of Colour by August Brugera (excuse spelling). Ive picked this case to pieces many times in my head, now your turn ;) [ATTACH=full]7115[/ATTACH][ATTACH=full]7116[/ATTACH][ATTACH=full]7117[/ATTACH][ATTACH=full]7118[/ATTACH][ATTACH=full]7119[/ATTACH][ATTACH=full]7120[/ATTACH][ATTACH=full]7121[/ATTACH][ATTACH=full]7122[/ATTACH][ATTACH=full]7123[/ATTACH] [/QUOTE]
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