Zr opaque liquid

[millennium]

That stuff will do the job. When you get it, be sure to fire a couple of test crowns, one with straight liquid, and one cut 1:1 with distilled water to get an idea of the intensity you will need. Even on anodized abutments, I use Origins cut with water routinely on my zirconia implant crowns.

Thank you! Will do.

 

[sidesh0wb0b]

It's a crown that's going over an old stripped pfm crown that the dr. doesn't want to remove the metal.

well that would do it!

 

[Sda36]

Sda36, when you paint the inside of the crown, are you drying it out for 5-10 minutes first, or putting it directly into the sinter furnace?

Always pre-dry for sure. Got a lesson with that while using our new S2 from Ivoclar. Due to the units being So exposed to the elements, had a couple of units split in half during sinter. Always make sure No moisture is present prior to sintering cycle. Previously and also presently we used Zubler' S 400 which I believe is a more gradual Heat Rise initially compared to the S2. Just a little more gentle in that critical time if your units are not Totally dry.

 

[Toothman19]

Kuraray has a tooth colored opaque liquid now with their katana esthetic kit. Works great and doesn't white out the margin if you get to close to it

 

[Sda36]

Always pre-dry for sure. Got a lesson with that while using our new S2 from Ivoclar. Due to the units being So exposed to the elements, had a couple of units split in half during sinter. Always make sure No moisture is present prior to sintering cycle. Previously and also presently we used Zubler' S 400 which I believe is a more gradual Heat Rise initially compared to the S2. Just a little more gentle in that critical time if your units are not Totally dry.

Another idea mentioned previously is to opaque the Ti Base. To do this properly, you can etch the external only part of the Ti Base ( fitting surface) with ceramic etching gel for a small amount of time, 1 minute or less depending on the strength of your gel. You can watch it work and judge for yourself. Ti reacts beautifully to Hydrofluoric acid. Next, prime Zr-Prime+ and apply Gradia Opaque in whatever shade required. (You can sandblast instead of acid etching if you prefer.) Scan and design from there and you're done. You would want to use a composite primer on the Gradia prior to bonding on the crown, again Zr-Prime +, intaglio on crown and on Gradia prior to bonding. Have checked this out with Bisco's Engineers and got a full go. You could also go with Ivoclar's Monobond if you use that instead.

 

[Sda36]

Kuraray has a tooth colored opaque liquid now with their katana esthetic kit. Works great and doesn't white out the margin if you get to close to it

They're all likely the same chemical constituents but at different levels of concentration. Just easy does it for sure.