Zolid FX Multi on the light side.

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In my hands the crowns come out on the light side. But my bigger issue toning down the occ, to white bright. The guys that are complaining are " no occ. stain " on anything. So I dont want to surface stain or it will start to puddle up in he anatomy. Without getting into a whole array of liquid kits can someone point me in a direction of what I might try in the way of a single liquid or two to keep my A2 ins. from looking like a B1 ins. ?
 
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Have you tried going 1 shade darker, i.e. for the A2, nest it in just below the top (Inc),to get a warmer Inc look,
without getting to much of the A3 chroma?
 
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An option I could think of is going with a thicker puck.

If the crown you're milling is too big inside the puck you are going into the lighter section too much.
 
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In my hands the crowns come out on the light side. But my bigger issue toning down the occ, to white bright. The guys that are complaining are " no occ. stain " on anything. So I dont want to surface stain or it will start to puddle up in he anatomy. Without getting into a whole array of liquid kits can someone point me in a direction of what I might try in the way of a single liquid or two to keep my A2 ins. from looking like a B1 ins. ?
Ive never used Zolid, and with STML I don't need to color, but if I ever want to make an amalam incisal or get artsy with something, Changs from IDS CAD has worked on everything Ive tried it on. Its strong, so I use a bit of food color just to add an indicator so I keep things conservative. Just to tone down occlusals, Id think a touch of blue and dentin color mixed would be enough.
 
DanM

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In my hands the crowns come out on the light side. But my bigger issue toning down the occ, to white bright. The guys that are complaining are " no occ. stain " on anything. So I dont want to surface stain or it will start to puddle up in he anatomy. Without getting into a whole array of liquid kits can someone point me in a direction of what I might try in the way of a single liquid or two to keep my A2 ins. from looking like a B1 ins. ?
I find the top of Zolid FxML discs are too bright as well. Try dropping the units down. A2 is about 2-3mm from the bottom. It almost seems like 14mm works better upto the top 2mm of the disc vs the 16mm top 2mm. If I get up in that top 2mm zone I'll often take their liquids and brush 1 coat over the entire crown.
 
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I might try one. The lady from Zahn call once a month trying to get me on Katana
Katana STML.

I find the top of Zolid FxML discs are too bright as well. Try dropping the units down. A2 is about 2-3mm from the bottom. It almost seems like 14mm works better upto the top 2mm of the disc vs the 16mm top 2mm. If I get up in that top 2mm zone I'll often take their liquids and brush 1 coat over the entire crown.
Dentin shades or ?
 
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An option I could think of is going with a thicker puck.

If the crown you're milling is too big inside the puck you are going into the lighter section too much.
In my hands the crowns come out on the light side. But my bigger issue toning down the occ, to white bright. The guys that are complaining are " no occ. stain " on anything. So I dont want to surface stain or it will start to puddle up in he anatomy. Without getting into a whole array of liquid kits can someone point me in a direction of what I might try in the way of a single liquid or two to keep my A2 ins. from looking like a B1 ins. ?
In my hands the crowns come out on the light side. But my bigger issue toning down the occ, to white bright. The guys that are complaining are " no occ. stain " on anything. So I dont want to surface stain or it will start to puddle up in he anatomy. Without getting into a whole array of liquid kits can someone point me in a direction of what I might try in the way of a single liquid or two to keep my A2 ins. from looking like a B1 ins. ?
I have had the same problem , so when I am staining the green zircona I will put some of the darker stain that is around the lip or around the cap of the stain bottle. This looks more like the shade that is applied than staining it after it is sintered.
 
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I might try one. The lady from Zahn call once a month trying to get me on Katana


Dentin shades or ?
Dentin, I use the "New Formula" and even though it says to shade with 1 shade darker for Fx I use the same shade I want for FxML. So I use the A2 liquid for A2 FxML and so on.
 
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Does it make a difference how its placed in the furnace? Last night I sintered a ant. three unit bridge. Labial side up. Surface is splotchy white. Lingual, (down side ) appears o.k. Furnace is a new Progrmate 1600. I'm still a virgin with this stuff, (milling and sintering ). So I'm open to any suggestions. Any green state handling protocol that I may be abusing ?
 
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We are using the Zolid FX Multilayer, and we love it. But it is a bit light, so I place them a bit lower in the puck. We only bought the 16mm so far, and it is working for us.
About the green state... I don't get "splotchy white surface"... but maybe something on your hand?! Try to wash it before touching the zirconia... in my old place we had a guy who had sweaty hands, and after he touched the crowns, I had hard time painting it because it wouldn't take the liquid...
 
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Kinda hard to see it. Post sinter. Patchy white like hypo calcification..Its on the surface amd along the margins. It doesnt go all the way through the crown. Sintered some A3 Katana stml yesterday. It looked nice.
 

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We had those white spots, when we had "bad" sintering beads... but at that time we painted the crowns...
 
DanM

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Does it make a difference how its placed in the furnace? Last night I sintered a ant. three unit bridge. Labial side up. Surface is splotchy white. Lingual, (down side ) appears o.k. Furnace is a new Progrmate 1600. I'm still a virgin with this stuff, (milling and sintering ). So I'm open to any suggestions. Any green state handling protocol that I may be abusing ?
I think I've seen on here those white spots are from the beads. Put those ones aside in a bag and try some new ones. I haven't noticed a difference which side is up but keep in mind if you add liquid colorant, even little bit, you need to dry it before sintering. I think its 80 degrees celsius for 45min. Maybe since it is less you could probably shorten it a bit.
 
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Thanks for the suggestions. I dont use beads or colorant. The oven is a Programat 1600 s1 and only 4 months old.
 
Car 54

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Does it make a difference how its placed in the furnace? Last night I sintered a ant. three unit bridge. Labial side up. Surface is splotchy white. Lingual, (down side ) appears o.k. Furnace is a new Progrmate 1600. I'm still a virgin with this stuff, (milling and sintering ). So I'm open to any suggestions. Any green state handling protocol that I may be abusing ?

Yep, it can make a difference. I can't find an online pdf version link that opens, but ask your Ivoclar rep to send you the Zenostar manual (Instructions for Use MT/T/MO).
Pages 20-21 are very helpful (pictures) in how to lay, position our zirconia on the tray for that oven.
 
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