Zirconia Staining Lacks Gray and Too Yellow. Looking For Solution or Better Product

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jamesjskim

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I have some questions regarding pre sintering zirconia staining. Any help will be greatly appreciated. I've used vita zirconia stains before, which you have to mix yourself. I switched over to the lava plus, but still am no where near satisfied with its results.

The biggest concern is with the C shades. The darker c3 and c4 seem to be ok but just cannot get c1 and c2. They look too yellow and not gray enough. How to get it more gray? How to get it less yellow? That leads me to my next concern. All shades from a to d are a bit yellowish, with possibly the exception of a1 and b1.

Is there a better staining liquid people use? Is there a way to add and subtract color from these stains? Is it possible that my oven is to blame? I have two ovens that use mosi elements and a new one from dekema that uses the silicon carbide elements, but not a microwave. All three produce the same results, but uncolored bleach shades come out fine.

The coloring effect of these lava stains seem to degrade over time. Jensen technical support tells me that the stains are sensitive to light and temperature... If they're sensitive to light, why are they shipped in clear plastic bottles...? Regardless, they don't seem to have an answer to the slight yellow was or the lack of grayness.

Any input will be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
 
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try zirkonzahn h2o based liquids stain from the inside and the outside but don't use to much as it starts to look like mud. the colours don't go off as quickly we used to keep our acid based stains in the fridge.
 
CoolHandLuke

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the vita kit works for a couple shades and thats all.

then again, most kits operate like that.

most of us however seem to agree that Zirkonzahn makes 2 worthwhile kits: water based colour, and acid based colour.

the differences are not subtle. in the water based kit, you can see each brushstroke you make, as the stuff has some colour as it is brushed on. the oranges are orange. the blues are blue. the yellows are varying degrees of yellow.

and so forth. this water kit is a great kit for two kinds of people: the kind of person who has a perfect design straight out of the mill with nothing to trim, and the kind of person who is selling fully coloured items out of the sintering oven.

that being said, the acid based kit has the same principle of operation, but the colours do not easily show up on the zirconia when you brush them on. so a different technique must be employed to ensure consistency and accuracy. the way i developed (but no longer work for the company) was to apply the dipping technique as well as the brushing technique, AND applying translucency via a 3rd kit.

so the way this works is you discover the layer of stain you desire, so for example A2 incisal, A3 neck and A3.5 ging. what you can do is one of two applications, based on your ceramist and how comfortable they are with your results.

1. you can dip for exactly 4 seconds in A3, and apply DK Translucency from the Tanaka stain kit (about 3 strokes) and apply A3 tanaka fluid upon the ging highlights. post sintering, this is pretty accurate.

2. you can dip for exactly 4 seconds in A2, and apply LT translucency from the Tanaka stain kit (two strokes) and apply A3 tanaka on the ging highlights. this results in a crown a slightly lighter and slightly more opacious. some ceramists prefer making lighter colours to make it easier to match emax adjacent teeth for example.

the difference between DK and LT translucency in the Tanaka (from what we have found) is the amount of translucency or greying added. LT adds less, and DK adds a lot. thats about as much as i can tell you from experience.
 
Pieter

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Lava Water based colouring liquids - how it works: Metal ions dissolved in the liquids react with zirconia during sintering giving the colour. Different ions different colour. Shake your bottles to ensure the ions are spread evenly in the liquids. Because its water based that evaporates after a while the liquid becomes thicker and penetration is not as good. Use a couple of drops of dilluting liquid (zirkonzahn) to get the liquid thinner again.Too much and the colour is also affected. Using brushes with metal brush holder can affect the colour after a while. The metal of the brush corrodes and changes the ion content.This can result in colour changes.That goes for metal tweesers etc.Dont mix acid based and water based as acids can affect the metal ions in water based liquids.Vita's accent plus stain kit contains 5 body colours with which you can alter the shade after sintering.
 
eyeloveteeth

eyeloveteeth

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make sure your liquids are burning out and also that you didn't contaminate!
 
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jamesjskim

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Thank you for taking the time to make all of your suggestions. I will consider all of the possible suggestions mentioned. If anyone can add anything about getting better c and d shades specifically it will be greatly appreciated. :D
 
Pieter

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The Zirkonzahn color liquids have a number of intensive colors. Blue violet and grey. Use the Zirkonzahn paint-on technique and use grey or blue intensive over a light C1/C2 basic color. Perhaps that helps.
 
Andrew@KillianDental

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Fireing temps in the sintering oven correct for the material? Zircon Zahn acid based liquid seems to be coming out a bit dark in some shades and too light in others i just dilute or move up a shade depending on what is needed.
 

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