Your best monolithic result...

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rookiee

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Guys, can you show off here what's your best result in monolithic zirconia? Pictures usually don't lie and I'm a beginner in a situation when don't know what to expect, where's the max bar setting. Over some stuff I've seen on fairs etc I've seen some really nice result, start doing it in house and I'm not there. Or maybe I am. So I think maybe this thread could be useful for all those who don't know what to expect. If you could maybe post some pics right after sinter process and maybe also after glaze and stain so that people could see bigger picture. I just tested a WhitePeaks Copran Monolith Symphony A3 and the result is, I don't know, truth is it's to bright, it's brighter than even A1 I think. And I can see color gradient, one side is bright, posterior has more color inside. Bridge was put horizontaly into puck so result should be more or less the same. I used slow "translucent" program on 1550 degrees. Your opinion? _DSC0499.JPG _DSC0498.JPG _DSC0497.JPG
 
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Elías

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Is that multilayer?


Enviado desde mi iPhone utilizando Tapatalk
 
sidesh0wb0b

sidesh0wb0b

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i have a few posts previously on threads here. no complaints with monolithic zirconia. crank them out all day. anterior, posterior. all looks pretty good
 
MarkoLab

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Guys, can you show off here what's your best result in monolithic zirconia? Pictures usually don't lie and I'm a beginner in a situation when don't know what to expect, where's the max bar setting. Over some stuff I've seen on fairs etc I've seen some really nice result, start doing it in house and I'm not there. Or maybe I am. So I think maybe this thread could be useful for all those who don't know what to expect. If you could maybe post some pics right after sinter process and maybe also after glaze and stain so that people could see bigger picture. I just tested a WhitePeaks Copran Monolith Symphony A3 and the result is, I don't know, truth is it's to bright, it's brighter than even A1 I think. And I can see color gradient, one side is bright, posterior has more color inside. Bridge was put horizontaly into puck so result should be more or less the same. I used slow "translucent" program on 1550 degrees. Your opinion? View attachment 27120 View attachment 27121 View attachment 27122

hello rookiee
i have the same Problem. my zirconia is too opaque and White incisal, all to bright!
how did you solve the Problem?
 
sidesh0wb0b

sidesh0wb0b

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i should post my most recent mono zirconia case.
#4-13 crowns over a titanium frame supported by 4 zimmer implants. flange support with the ti frame on facial and slightly on lingual with GC light cured Gradia gingiva tissue as well. turned out beautiful. Dr and pt very happy.
 
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rookiee

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hello rookiee
i have the same Problem. my zirconia is too opaque and White incisal, all to bright!
how did you solve the Problem?

Gave up on speed cycle programs, stopped to experiment, went on one brand, pretty happy with result. Now I use only Katana, works fine and I hope it stays like this. For small bridges, STML, for singles UTML and for bigger stuff ML. Can't go wrong. Maybe I could get cheaper material but I don't have time or money to search for a needle in a haystack. The only thing I have really tried is to use some green state colors. Did one test but it was ugly as hell. Do you guys dilute colors with distilled water or something to make them less intensive?

I pozdrav na more! ;)
 
Getoothachopper

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Here is a little four unit finished on Friday,It's Origin Beyond Plus ,Strength and colour of the material are good (1000 MPa). I really like AG's Zolid for anterior work and I also use Kat's stml sometimes depending on the shade required .All of my posterior work I do with 'Beyond Plus' and sometimes Anterior work if I really need the strength.
IMG_1042.JPG IMG_4598.JPG
 
Getoothachopper

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@Getoothachopper

Ive just started with some Beyond Plus. Any tips on coloring?
Go easy with the effect colours if you want to use them ,they are kinda strong . When doing bridge work don't forget to give the pontic a nice coat with the 'Green Inhibitor liquid' first before dipping or it will come out a little darker than the rest . I like to use a brush and create a very uneven jagged application with the incisal colour before the dip . Other than that just dip one min and you're done . If I need the necks darker I will brush them with darker shade before dipping .Hope that helps .
 
Drizzt

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how are you getting such great images of shades without them dehydrating at the prepped stage?

also, i love your work. teach me! hahaha

Almost 100% of the pics I post are shot by me at the lab . I always ask to see the patient before prep for shade matching, but docs almost never listen, lol . If they come to the lab and the teeth are dehydrated , I send them home and ask them to come back after 2-3 days .

Come to my lab and I will teach you !! Ha ha ha !!
 
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