Al.
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I had some free time so I thought Id post this up for the folks on these forums. Anybody have any tips please share them.
Venners are the probably my biggest challenge along with implant cases.
They are not difficult if I am patient and take extra care in the wax, but if I rush the wax up they are a nightmare.
Here is my technique, all the while under the watchful eye of my superviser.
This case is replacing old venners done yrs ago on over agressive preps.
Dr wants me to match the pre op length and width.
I didnt section the model so I can keep the interproximal tissue for the wax up and I get better contacts.
First I put a layer of my dipping wax on the dies. I use Gatorwax. Probably around .4 +/-. This helps me judge the thickness during the wax up and the dipping wax is more flexable with some memory.
I wax one unit at a time starting with the cuspids, and going from one side to the other.
I do not carve the wax unless I first heat the area with the tip of my waxer and I always carve downwards toward the gingival.
I add only a minimal amount of wax interproximal. I want to keep my seperation through out the wax up so I dont have to search where my contacts will be later.
If you add too much wax interproximal remove it while the wax is still warm.
As the wax cools it shrinks and will lift the venners next to it. I constantly keep my seperation with a very thin razor, usually 3/4 of the way through.
As I add bulk to the center of the wax up the margins tend to lift so I am constantly sealing my margins.
Here is a real time saver tip. This saves me a ton of time.
I lube my finger and lay it on the back of the dies and wax to my finger. My lub of choice is saliva. Its not to hot as long as you dont touch the tip of your finger with the spatula.
I match up all my incisal edges this way, if needed, after I get my inital wax done.
Ready to cut through my contacts.
I do not heat my razor to cut through venners. It will remove too much wax opening up the contacts to much. I slowly work and slice through untill I can remove each one.
Here they have been cut and placed back on the model. I have been using that same razor for over 15 yrs.
One at a time starting from right to left I refine my contacts making sure no venner is over on to the prep next to it. I add a small amount of wax to one contact area, where needed, and firmly seat the venner next to it in place while the wax is still soft. How I do my contacts now will determine how much work I do later.
I finish my margins now exactly as I want them to be at the time of glaze.
If I am going to cut back and layer I sprue on the insical edge. If it is a stain and glaze case, as this one is, I sprue slightly below the edge.
They are pressed and fit and the contacts are adjusted. I missed the midline of the two centrals. I need to move #9 over to the right and I am going to try to bring the M and D line angles of #8 and #9 inwards and mabey slightly lengthen them to make them look less squatty.
This is a male so I want to keep a masculine appearance.
Ready to glaze.
I stain first and fire, then glaze.
This is a B1 so I put B1 shade on the gin 1/2. I put a very slight amount of insical shade on the insical 1/4 then I lay small amount of white on the insical edge and sometimes carry it along the M and D line angles if I want to help them stand out.
Glaze then put back on the master model to readjust the contacts from the glaze.
Put on the second pour to reconfirm the tissue contact, interproximal embrassures,contacts and margins.
The wax up took me about 2 1/2 hours and it took me another 2 1/2 hrs to get them packed and ready for delivery.
Ive seen some wax facings for anteriors that I might order. If those work that would save a ton of time in the wax.
Venners are the probably my biggest challenge along with implant cases.
They are not difficult if I am patient and take extra care in the wax, but if I rush the wax up they are a nightmare.
Here is my technique, all the while under the watchful eye of my superviser.
This case is replacing old venners done yrs ago on over agressive preps.
Dr wants me to match the pre op length and width.
I didnt section the model so I can keep the interproximal tissue for the wax up and I get better contacts.
First I put a layer of my dipping wax on the dies. I use Gatorwax. Probably around .4 +/-. This helps me judge the thickness during the wax up and the dipping wax is more flexable with some memory.
I wax one unit at a time starting with the cuspids, and going from one side to the other.
I do not carve the wax unless I first heat the area with the tip of my waxer and I always carve downwards toward the gingival.
I add only a minimal amount of wax interproximal. I want to keep my seperation through out the wax up so I dont have to search where my contacts will be later.
If you add too much wax interproximal remove it while the wax is still warm.
As the wax cools it shrinks and will lift the venners next to it. I constantly keep my seperation with a very thin razor, usually 3/4 of the way through.
As I add bulk to the center of the wax up the margins tend to lift so I am constantly sealing my margins.
Here is a real time saver tip. This saves me a ton of time.
I lube my finger and lay it on the back of the dies and wax to my finger. My lub of choice is saliva. Its not to hot as long as you dont touch the tip of your finger with the spatula.
I match up all my incisal edges this way, if needed, after I get my inital wax done.
Ready to cut through my contacts.
I do not heat my razor to cut through venners. It will remove too much wax opening up the contacts to much. I slowly work and slice through untill I can remove each one.
Here they have been cut and placed back on the model. I have been using that same razor for over 15 yrs.
One at a time starting from right to left I refine my contacts making sure no venner is over on to the prep next to it. I add a small amount of wax to one contact area, where needed, and firmly seat the venner next to it in place while the wax is still soft. How I do my contacts now will determine how much work I do later.
I finish my margins now exactly as I want them to be at the time of glaze.
If I am going to cut back and layer I sprue on the insical edge. If it is a stain and glaze case, as this one is, I sprue slightly below the edge.
They are pressed and fit and the contacts are adjusted. I missed the midline of the two centrals. I need to move #9 over to the right and I am going to try to bring the M and D line angles of #8 and #9 inwards and mabey slightly lengthen them to make them look less squatty.
This is a male so I want to keep a masculine appearance.
Ready to glaze.
I stain first and fire, then glaze.
This is a B1 so I put B1 shade on the gin 1/2. I put a very slight amount of insical shade on the insical 1/4 then I lay small amount of white on the insical edge and sometimes carry it along the M and D line angles if I want to help them stand out.
Glaze then put back on the master model to readjust the contacts from the glaze.
Put on the second pour to reconfirm the tissue contact, interproximal embrassures,contacts and margins.
The wax up took me about 2 1/2 hours and it took me another 2 1/2 hrs to get them packed and ready for delivery.
Ive seen some wax facings for anteriors that I might order. If those work that would save a ton of time in the wax.