Wax for RPD setup/try-in

JMN

JMN

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Hey everyone,

Wondering what/if you use a denser or generally more 'stalwart' wax for cast RPD frame setup and try in.

The lack of enough thickness with the cast retention pattern at the tooth zones has my go-to wax not holding up well. Generally pleased with the wax I use, it's Ron's/TD Dental's, but if I can't get it thick enough with that mesh in the middle, it has come free or fractured at the mesh ending area during try-in.

Am I hoping for too much? Any suggestions?
 
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Old School Dentures

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Soap model with soapy water, blow off model, put frame on model, heat mesh slightly the press wax through mesh. Your waxup should stay together just fine now. Setup as usual.


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JMN

JMN

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Soap model with soapy water, blow off model, put frame on model, heat mesh slightly the press wax through mesh. Your waxup should stay together just fine now. Setup as usual.


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Thanks! I had melted it into liquid state with a tool and effectively dribbled through the mesh. I'll give it a shot on the next one. Been about 3 years since I did the last one, so I'm forgetting and relearning.
 
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Old School Dentures

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Do not melt to liquid. After you heat mesh over flame heat the wax slightly also then as I said press firmly through mesh


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Craig T

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Also, remind DDS to not grab the case by the teeth when removing it from the model.
 
Alan JDL

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Soap model with soapy water, blow off model, put frame on model, heat mesh slightly the press wax through mesh. Your waxup should stay together just fine now. Setup as usual.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
This is what we do as well. You can also use light cure base plate material and mash it into the retention on the framework. Wax up as usual, and just burn it off when processing.
 
Doris A

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I have another technique for you to try. Instead of dribbling the liquid wax under the framework, use a glass eyedropper to flow it underneath the frame. After you have wax in the eyedropper heat it in your flame so it flows easily and then set up as usual.
 
kcdt

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Thanks! I had melted it into liquid state with a tool and effectively dribbled through the mesh. I'll give it a shot on the next one. Been about 3 years since I did the last one, so I'm forgetting and relearning.
Heating the frame slightly is key; otherwise wax chills and contracts away as soon as it hits the mesh.
Also soap or separate for clean release
 
kcdt

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This is what we do as well. You can also use light cure base plate material and mash it into the retention on the framework. Wax up as usual, and just burn it off when processing.
Tray resin sure, LC? Nope. Too goddamn difficult to get off at boil out. Won't soften when you flame it
 
JMN

JMN

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Heating the frame slightly is key; otherwise wax chills and contracts away as soon as it hits the mesh.
Also soap or separate for clean release
Thanks!
 
JMN

JMN

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I have another technique for you to try. Instead of dribbling the liquid wax under the framework, use a glass eyedropper to flow it underneath the frame. After you have wax in the eyedropper heat it in your flame so it flows easily and then set up as usual.
Thank you!
 
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nickate

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This is what we do as well. You can also use light cure base plate material and mash it into the retention on the framework. Wax up as usual, and just burn it off when processing.

Alan- .... "just burn it off when processing"?


DO NOT DO THIS. EVER. When the frame is held onto the model with stone after investing you have ZERO room to pull the chunks of light cure out from under the FW. The LC material does not soften or "BURN" with heat or fire. TIME IS MONEY. This is wasting time and adding frustration.

A variant on this is a Dr. who takes washes under the saddles of a try-in.
We then have to cut the orig. model apart and do an "altered cast" technique model- boxing and repouring the saddles... When boilout time comes you have to remove the impression mat. from under the saddles... PITA but at least it is soft imp. material.
 
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Alan JDL

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Alan- you have no clue.... "just burn it off when processing"?


DO NOT DO THIS. EVER. When the frame is held onto the model with stone after investing you have ZERO room to pull the chunks of light cure out from under the FW. The LC material does not soften or "BURN" with heat or fire. TIME IS MONEY. This is wasting time and adding frustration.

A variant on this is a Dr. who takes washes under the saddles of a try-in.
We then have to cut the orig. model apart and do an "altered cast" technique model- boxing and repouring the saddles... When boilout time comes you have to remove the impression mat. from under the saddles... PITA but at least it is soft imp. material.

I should have been more clear in my first post but we only do this with our cases that we pour process. Pull model out of the hydrocolloid, take teeth off and boil off mode. Pull the frame off and remove the baseplate material. Not sure what light cure you use but the Dentsply triad 100% gets soft or burns when hit with an alcohol torch. If you press the baseplate material just enough into the retention you can hit it with an alcohol torch for 5 seconds and it peels right off. Been doing it this way for 18 years and have literally zero issues.
 
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nickate

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Alan---My most sincere apology for the personal attack- I have edited it out of my post. Please accept my apology.

Sterngold- does not soften
Megatray (from Uhler, Nowak GREAT STUFF BY THE WAY)- does not soften
Patterson house brand- similar to Megatray

If you do as you say..."If you press the baseplate material just enough into the retention you can hit it with an alcohol torch for 5 seconds and it peels right off. Been doing it this way for 18 years and have literally zero issues."... it is NOT flowing under and in between the fw and the model which is what holds the saddle on best and, I believe, what the OP was looking to achieve.. Mechanical retention. Summer months and hot enviornments bring on soft try ins.....

Everybody has their way of doing things...
Never used triad-my bad-my apologies.
If you are using colloid my only concern is the opportunity for tweakage of the fw upon removal by an over zealous entry level employee that does not understand how easy the fw is to bend. JUST USE SOME WAX AS EARLIER POSTS SUGGEST. Cheaper, easier, faster and less chance to fubar.

My advice stands--- for stone investing.
 
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Alan JDL

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I should have been more clear in my first post, then there wouldn't have been any confusion in the first place. That's what makes this site so great. Everybody has their own way of doing it. When we press the baseplate material into the retention, you do it so it does get mechanical retention but does not totally encase the mesh on the framework. Holds way more solid than wax and comes off easily when taking an alcohol torch to it. The OP was asking about something more robust than just regular wax and I gave a solution that has worked for me in the past. I get that time is money, which is one of the reasons we pour process most of these cases. I also get that a less experienced tech may introduce more problems having to take frameworks off so that is something to take into consideration. But we are a small lab and all our techs have years of experience and are more than qualified to remove frames from models without tweaking them.
 
kcdt

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I should have been more clear in my first post but we only do this with our cases that we pour process. Pull model out of the hydrocolloid, take teeth off and boil off mode. Pull the frame off and remove the baseplate material. Not sure what light cure you use but the Dentsply triad 100% gets soft or burns when hit with an alcohol torch. If you press the baseplate material just enough into the retention you can hit it with an alcohol torch for 5 seconds and it peels right off. Been doing it this way for 18 years and have literally zero issues.
Most house brand LC material will not soften, it is more common because the price point is way better
 
kcdt

kcdt

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I should have been more clear in my first post, then there wouldn't have been any confusion in the first place. That's what makes this site so great. Everybody has their own way of doing it. When we press the baseplate material into the retention, you do it so it does get mechanical retention but does not totally encase the mesh on the framework. Holds way more solid than wax and comes off easily when taking an alcohol torch to it. The OP was asking about something more robust than just regular wax and I gave a solution that has worked for me in the past. I get that time is money, which is one of the reasons we pour process most of these cases. I also get that a less experienced tech may introduce more problems having to take frameworks off so that is something to take into consideration. But we are a small lab and all our techs have years of experience and are more than qualified to remove frames from models without tweaking them.
I've always done this with PMMA tray material.
Before process you relieve intaglio to expose mesh, that way you don't trap it underneath.
I've never managed to make that happen with LC. I can clean it off, but it's an ordeal.
 
JKraver

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I like to use candulor hard for under saddles, I place frame in hot water, soften wax place over saddle then quickly dry mesh saddle with cloth and press into place. Works well and the hard holds up good with wear.
 
JMN

JMN

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Thank you everyone! I'll try these ideas in the future. I don't do many, but I want them as perfect as possible, and you've all helped with ways to make them more so.
 
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