wax coping production

[2oothguy]

wax

The only way in my book is to use a good dip pot and a good dipping wax. Play with the temp until you get the thickness you want. I use a digital dip pot and bell de saint clare dipping wax. I keep the temp at 182 and get 0.3 tenths coping. And build up were you need for support of course.

 

[ofair]

maybe when doing depeing is not hot enough or the wax not soft.

 

[rheinallt]

Has anyone tried the Bego Adapta system?
It's a thin sheet of plastic that's held in a special wire frame holder and heated over a Bunsen burner. The die is then plunged into the softened plastic into a pot of putty.
It's available from Metrodent in the UK for £93:53 - enough for 100 crowns.

I have used the Kerr Inlay wax (traditional technique),it's very brittle!

 

[paulg100]

"I think the term is "Butt" margin "

Man that made me laugh

Re buying the wax occlusual moulds, its cheaper to just index some study models with putty and pour wax in, voilla! your own wax occlusual moulds in the normal wax brand you use.

Dont understand the point in buying them.

 

[doug]

"I think the term is "Butt" margin "

Man that made me laugh

Re buying the wax occlusual moulds, its cheaper to just index some study models with putty and pour wax in, voilla! your own wax occlusual moulds in the normal wax brand you use.

Dont understand the point in buying them.

They're a lot easier to use than you think.

 

[dmonwaxa]

Do you use any Doug; and if so, what brand?

 

[rkm rdt]

I heard they cost an arm and a leg but I think Doug may have a spare

 

[dmonwaxa]

I heard they cost an arm and a leg but I think Doug may have a spare

LOL LOL LOL..

 

[paulg100]

not so much the ease of use, but why buy refills when you can just pour wax into a mould and produce your own, in hardly any time.

The other thing i dont like the idea of with the pre-formned ones is ther not in the wax your using, maybe not a big thing if your using for casting, but more so it its for diagnostic work which is to be presented to the patient.

This topic reminded me to get some different sized sets of posterior denture teeth and make up some putty moulds to see how it works out.

and re the cost the smille line ones have great forms and morphology but yes there $$ for what they are.

 

[dmonwaxa]

not so much the ease of use, but why buy refills when you can just pour wax into a mould and produce your own, in hardly any time.

The other thing i dont like the idea of with the pre-formned ones is ther not in the wax your using, maybe not a big thing if your using for casting, but more so it its for diagnostic work which is to be presented to the patient.

This topic reminded me to get some different sized sets of posterior denture teeth and make up some putty moulds to see how it works out.

and re the cost the smille line ones have great forms and morphology but yes there $$ for what they are.

Forgive me, are we talking silicon wax occlusal moulds or prefromed wax occlusals? If they're the silicon moulds why would it be necessary for purchasing refills?

 

[rkm rdt]

Whether you use premade wax forms or premade silicone forms ,there is a significant cost unless you average 45 new dentists per month and can afford both

Being part tightwad and part mad scientist I have made molds of denture teeth and any other model that had cool anatomy.

At the end of the day I end up waxing it all by hand....and charge a kings ransom.

 

[doug]

Do you use any Doug; and if so, what brand?

We have the Biofit molds from Jensen. Russ' very own creation, and a great way to make an occlusal on a gold crown or do a quick wax-up for a diagnostic case. I like what Al does with the anterior patterns for diagnostic cases and Veneers.

 

[odchamp]

I use Bredents moulds on certain cases when you have bags of room or no bite to worry about.
I think Biofit do a shallow range, are they any good, they could be quite useful.

 

[SandRLab]

I use Hi-Tech green dipping and their all purpose green for carving. I always have trouble with lines inside the copings. I am going to try warming up my dies (somehow!!) before dipping, maybe that will help! I use the silicone molds for waxups but almost always have to destroy the anatomy because theres not enough room. What die prep products do you guys use, spacer and sealer, margin marker, and CARVERS!! Can't seem to find a great one that doesn't have to be adjusted.

 

[rkm rdt]

Try dipping a bit faster to avoid the internal lines.

I use a carver that is basically the same contour as the ditching to carve my margins.Thin out the wax before removing it.I wouldn't warm up the dies,you may frig up the spacer.

 

[CatamountRob]

SandRLab,
You can gently warm the dies, I have a little thing called a warm and dry that does just that or if you have a food dehydrator to dry models you can warm them in that. The die spacers are made to withstand the hot wax and you only need them warm. For what its worth, I tried Hi-Techs dipping wax and hated it, though I love their margin wax. I like Kerrs much better. Rob

 

[rkm rdt]

Good point Rob,I guess I was visualizing flaming the dies with a bunsen burner.

 

[CatamountRob]

Yeah, I think the key is "warm" not hot, however I should have mentioned that you need a way to warm them to a fairly consistent temerature or it becomes impossible to get a consistent thickness in your copings. Rob

 

[araucaria]

Yeah, I think the key is "warm" not hot, however I should have mentioned that you need a way to warm them to a fairly consistent temerature or it becomes impossible to get a consistent thickness in your copings. Rob

There's a thread somewhere else on this board that discusses this point, it states how some bigassmamma would sit on the dies to warm them! very unusual method indeed. Under a lamp might suffice.

 

[charles007]

You get rings when you dip slow.... period, whether you have a cold die or warm .
When you dip, go in fast, and come out slow..........know what I mean

Set the temp on your dip pot so the thickness you want to achieve will be correct with this technique.