UCLA's tips n tricks

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Would the 'moat' not be filled with ceramics?
LCM
 
rkm rdt

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Oh right,I see what you did there.

Been a while since I did it old school.
upload_2016-1-26_11-32-27.jpeg
 
Marcusthegladiator CDT

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Lose the plastic (Delrin) sleeve that rotates on the base. It DOES rotate that could cause a major problem later if you don't see it rotate. Now put a tiny little notch somewhere on the base. Then place the handle of a flocked tip applicator into the base to make room for the screw channel. Now apply a base of pattern resin, let cure. Now wax to that. Now you don't have to worry about rotation.
Now keep a supply of used analogs. Seat your final waxup onto the analog and extend the wax as far as possible without interfering with the interface base. If you have to overdue it, you can polish it down later.
Place the pattern into your ring former and run some floss or fishing line through the screw channel. As you fill up with investment, pull the floss through the abutment pulling investment with it.
Now cure under pressure to be sure you have no bubbles.
 
Affinity

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Been a while since I did it old school.
Hmmmm2

How do you do a cast UCLA pfm new school? I designed the whole case in CAD.. dont know how you can do it any different..
 
rkm rdt

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Hmmmm2

How do you do a cast UCLA pfm new school? I designed the whole case in CAD.. dont know how you can do it any different..

I rarely do uclas any more. All my synoctas are hybrids from a Trios scan.
I never liked synoctas because of the flashing problem.

I think Straumann uses crap plastic. The ucla synoctas from medentica uses are far superior plastic imo and I never had casting issues when I used them.
 
Affinity

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It is really time-consuming.. this case was thrown in my lab 3 weeks before Christmas. Delivered it on the 22nd I think. Drs want these for longevity.. I dont think I could sell a metal frame cemented over a Ti base on a case like this.. same with Zr. Im not sure I want to guarantee a case like this on anything else. The long driver BARELY fit on this case..
This was a case another lab in another state dropped the ball on and I had to pick up in the middle. I can post some pics of my wax/sprue when I get home. Better safe than sorry on these, work super clean and make sure the interface is super clean.. Molten metal can cast so thin that the only way you can see it is if its oxidized.
 
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Andrew Priddy

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Would the 'moat' not be filled with ceramics?
LCM
yep, actually it's fine enough to run a quick laser weld around and then polish back
I just broke out the 2 cases I had with white-out.. they are nice n clean

have a Synocta WN in the oven now, will post pics of it in a bit... going to get the metal a little "hot" to see where it goes :)
 
A

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yep, actually it's fine enough to run a quick laser weld around and then polish back
I just broke out the 2 cases I had with white-out.. they are nice n clean

have a Synocta WN in the oven now, will post pics of it in a bit... going to get the metal a little "hot" to see where it goes :)
I'm glad that worked out well.
Find the article BTW image.jpg image.jpg
 
Andrew Priddy

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oh, nice! wish I could read it

white-out applied

WP_20160126_005.jpg


Just out of the acid (1 hour)
Zero polishing/ cleanup

WP_20160126_008.jpg


I'm very impressed with this technique, and the results. I actually carved the white-out off of the wax (which was time consuming),but I have a feeling it wasn't necessary... but I have a Branemark ready to go for tomorrow A.M. where I've painted down on the wax a little to see if there are any adverse effects.

Also, carving a moat really isn't necessary..

you can't tell from the pic, but the interface has absolutely no oxidation and looks like it just came out of the package... what this tells me is that the whiteout provides a solid seal and barrier.

IMO, there really is no other way to do this.. thanks everyone for all the tips, I really appreciate it
 
Andrew Priddy

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Marcus, I've never had a problem with the waxup rotating... on the Straumann's, I do need to superglue some of the Derlin tubes in place, but that is the extent of it.
and yes, it's mandatory to keep it all super clean.

one thing I've learned is to check everything without the tissue on, just before sprueing it up
 
kimba

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is white out a brand or just a generic name?
 
Andrew Priddy

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liquid paper.. white out from the local office supply
 
dmonwaxa

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Or big box stores that has an office supply department.
 
dmonwaxa

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Nice Job Andrew Priddy!. You sure know how to lay it on thick! :cool:
 
Jenners

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We used to use liquid graphite for the same purpose. I had no idea White Out would be so useful. I generally don't have casting issues on implants, but having a method of security is nice.
 
Andrew Priddy

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Branemark, looks like it just came out of the package...

WP_20160127_008.jpg


as I eluded to earlier,

WP_20160127_006.jpg


it doesn't matter if the liquid extends down onto the wax... I didn't notice any adverse effects on the branemark.

this was cast today, will open it up tomorrow, but I expect it to look like I expect it to.

I think that 2 of us are running about 70 a month out the door.. so every bit helps, and I couldn't be happier with the results!

second pic is 3i non-engaging
 
Andrew Priddy

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We used to use liquid graphite for the same purpose. I had no idea White Out would be so useful. I generally don't have casting issues on implants, but having a method of security is nice.

we didn't have a ton of issues, but I will take the extra 30 seconds to apply white-out..
we currently have one person that does all of our castings.. so "things" happen... whether it's too hot? all new metal because someone doesn't want to pre-burn some? drank too much the night before? whatever...S* happens.

i'm just too busy to handle flash that could be avoided easily
 
lcmlabforum

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Now that RKM brought it up, anyone knows how we can order parts from
Medentika in the US?
LCM
 

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