Tips and Tricks for your lab

JMN

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That's it, you'll never see me again!

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JMN

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Okay, back on track.

I've started keeping my curing pot at 165 all the time, so I'll put one in at whatever point it's ready and have others in there too that will come out whenever they are ready.
But to keep track of which is which is slightly important.

Floaty boat key keychains. Just number them, clip the chain to the flask compress and number the Rx with the water entry time. Easy.
 
rkm rdt

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Okay, back on track.

I've started keeping my curing pot at 165 all the time, so I'll put one in at whatever point it's ready and have others in there too that will come out whenever they are ready.
But to keep track of which is which is slightly important.

Floaty boat key keychains. Just number them, clip the chain to the flask compress and number the Rx with the water entry time. Easy.
what ever floats your boat.
 
Mrs.galfriday

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I have the same counter top. Home Depot/
Lowes, here. The prettier black quartz counter proved to be a real bugger when trying to find burs and stuff. The blonder counter top doesn't disguise tools and stuff. The black stone one is fine for porcelain bench. I put a white towel down and my peripheral vision doesn't suffer from the glare of a stretch of white counter top.. It's the little things that count in design. Flow is important too.
 
JMN

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Got teef you dont want to buy a proper cabinet to sleep in? Go cheap. Sterlight paper holder and some posterboard.
5 bucks for the holder. One/two for the paperboard. And about 5 minutes later you have a toothstache. Er tooth stash.

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Doris A

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Thare be a spot near 'nuff what calls itself Fat Boys Pork Palace. Reckon they may hap' t' be in th' same way.

(did you notice the N in the sign was a W with the leftmost verticle removed? Whole new meaning.)
If that W was complete they still wouldn't need any teef...they'd be wolfing it down Smokin
 
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Im sure theres reasons to not do this, but when making veneers on larger cases, like the 6 Im finishing today, Ill create the master model, section dies, trim,design and press the veneers. Ill adjust the contacts on that model, but...

Then I have a solid model, and Ill super glue the veneers to it. That lets me be a bit more aggressive on adjusting the incisal edges and detailing the contours with out worrying that they keep falling off or flying away. When Im done, I just devest them and theyre ready to glaze.
 
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Sda36

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Im sure theres reasons to not do this, but when making veneers on larger cases, like the 6 Im finishing today, Ill create the master model, section dies, trim,design and press the veneers. Ill adjust the contacts on that model, but...

Then I have a solid model, and Ill super glue the veneers to it. That lets me be a bit more aggressive on adjusting the incisal edges and detailing the contours with out worrying that they keep falling off or flying away. When Im done, I just devest them and theyre ready to glaze.


Also found the necessity and found cementing on model or die with gingival silicone (very flowable) keeps things in place for contouring and Fully Supported for strength while grinding. When done, unseat and peel out. Like the glue idea also user!!
 
Adi

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Im sure theres reasons to not do this, but when making veneers on larger cases, like the 6 Im finishing today, Ill create the master model, section dies, trim,design and press the veneers. Ill adjust the contacts on that model, but...

Then I have a solid model, and Ill super glue the veneers to it. That lets me be a bit more aggressive on adjusting the incisal edges and detailing the contours with out worrying that they keep falling off or flying away. When Im done, I just devest them and theyre ready to glaze.
Glue them with what? Surely not super glue
 
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Glue them with what? Surely not super glue
Yes, super glue. Holds them solid while I check excursions, detail incisal edges and add some labial anatomy. They devest easily, look and fit great.
 
Adi

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Yes, super glue. Holds them solid while I check excursions, detail incisal edges and add some labial anatomy. They devest easily, look and fit great.
Devest by sandblasting?
 
Adi

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A good way to deal with a pick up impression :
Isolate crowns with model isolator or any kind of oil, use your hot silicon gun to fill them , place a pin before it gets cold and pour your plaster. 32167 32165 32164 32166
 
JMN

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A good way to deal with a pick up impression :
Isolate crowns with model isolator or any kind of oil, use your hot silicon gun to fill them , place a pin before it gets cold and pour your plaster. View attachment 32167 View attachment 32165 View attachment 32164 View attachment 32166
Self cure bench cure acrylic like Duralay works fabulous too. And it won't wobble under stress like hot glue. Just need the thinest imaginable layer of vaseline inside the coping. While in the impreesion cover the exposed outside areas of ye coping with gingival simulation material. Easy removal, solid reseating.

but your way is much faster if rushed
 
Adi

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Self cure bench cure acrylic like Duralay works fabulous too. And it won't wobble under stress like hot glue. Just need the thinest imaginable layer of vaseline inside the coping. While in the impreesion cover the exposed outside areas of ye coping with gingival simulation material. Easy removal, solid reseating.

but your way is much faster if rushed
Acrylics are solid , it may be difficult to remove the crowns if doctors preparation was not good.
That's why I chose silicon
 
Car 54

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Acrylics are solid , it may be difficult to remove the crowns if doctors preparation was not good.
That's why I chose silicon

I like that idea of a little give, especially if it's for anterior bridges where I need to add to the tissue due to extractions.

If those were layered emax crowns, do I need to be concerned about any cracking due to the hot glue onto a layered frame in a "cold" impression?
 

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