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labdude
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Model trimmer guide plate.
Plate is made of glass, preferably dark. At least 1/4" thick. All angles are cut into glass with a separateing disk. Don't go to the edge as glass will fracture if you do. Want more details on the plate?? Ask.
It is attached to the trimmer useing silicon. A lot of silicon. It must be square in both dimensions. ( parallel to diamond wheel, 90 degress to diamond wheel.)
We use a model trimming handpiece bit from Great Lakes for basic shapping of the labial and buccal areas. We use a #2 scaler at this time as well for bubble removal form the gingival areas etc. Small voids etc are also filled at this time in all but the flat surfaces on the model. A small container of water and another of dry plaster is used for this.
Models are then fine sanded on an unmodified trimmer set up with the most fine wheel available. This can be further smoothed and rendered flat with a knife sharpeneing stone placed against the wheel to true it completely. This is kept at hand for removal of any pieces of the wheel that do crop up now and then and create a groove in the flat surface.
Using rummy tiles (from the game) as they have a set of each number, place one on the tray the other goes on the left of a row of models on a towel or towels that you place the models in order, left to right, on.
At this time a small mix of plaster is used to fill voids on the flat surfaces. Once the plaster sets,( generally not a problem as you are working on maybe 20 to 100 models) sand models by hand with the finest sandpaer that will do the job and not leave marks. I have found dofferent types of sand paper work better than others, of the same grit. Experiment.
Drying models.
Get a clothes dryer. Remove the belt that spins it. Lock the drom in place with screws or wood as needed.
Use metal racks on legs of different height to allow for at least 2 layers of models to be placed in dryer. We used to dry between 20 and 30 models at a time. Timer can be modified if you like, drying time using the normal timer worked fine for us.
Models are then replaced on their trays with matching # tile.
Printing of info on the models is done with a model marker. Unitek used to have these. Great Lakes still has onw available I believe.
Soap shine of your choice. In the past we used a powder that can now only be gotten from a laundry supply company. Powder must have lanolin in it. Mixed with hot water and allowed to set over night. This soap is very thick at first and needs to be broken up before models can be placed in it. Do not thin it as it will not shine models if it is thinned. Soap is only available in 50 lb. bags last time I used it.
Models need to be wrapped 4" x 12" piece of cushioning from Paper Mart. Box for single model is a 6x4x3 tuck top mailer. 2 models fit in a 6x4x10.
Multiple models can then be placed in 8x8 or larger boxes for mass shipping.
Questions... just ask.
Stuff may seem simple to most of you. Sorry. Just trying to help.
Models are a nice way to generate an extra 1000 bucks a month if you need.Mike.
Plate is made of glass, preferably dark. At least 1/4" thick. All angles are cut into glass with a separateing disk. Don't go to the edge as glass will fracture if you do. Want more details on the plate?? Ask.
It is attached to the trimmer useing silicon. A lot of silicon. It must be square in both dimensions. ( parallel to diamond wheel, 90 degress to diamond wheel.)
We use a model trimming handpiece bit from Great Lakes for basic shapping of the labial and buccal areas. We use a #2 scaler at this time as well for bubble removal form the gingival areas etc. Small voids etc are also filled at this time in all but the flat surfaces on the model. A small container of water and another of dry plaster is used for this.
Models are then fine sanded on an unmodified trimmer set up with the most fine wheel available. This can be further smoothed and rendered flat with a knife sharpeneing stone placed against the wheel to true it completely. This is kept at hand for removal of any pieces of the wheel that do crop up now and then and create a groove in the flat surface.
Using rummy tiles (from the game) as they have a set of each number, place one on the tray the other goes on the left of a row of models on a towel or towels that you place the models in order, left to right, on.
At this time a small mix of plaster is used to fill voids on the flat surfaces. Once the plaster sets,( generally not a problem as you are working on maybe 20 to 100 models) sand models by hand with the finest sandpaer that will do the job and not leave marks. I have found dofferent types of sand paper work better than others, of the same grit. Experiment.
Drying models.
Get a clothes dryer. Remove the belt that spins it. Lock the drom in place with screws or wood as needed.
Use metal racks on legs of different height to allow for at least 2 layers of models to be placed in dryer. We used to dry between 20 and 30 models at a time. Timer can be modified if you like, drying time using the normal timer worked fine for us.
Models are then replaced on their trays with matching # tile.
Printing of info on the models is done with a model marker. Unitek used to have these. Great Lakes still has onw available I believe.
Soap shine of your choice. In the past we used a powder that can now only be gotten from a laundry supply company. Powder must have lanolin in it. Mixed with hot water and allowed to set over night. This soap is very thick at first and needs to be broken up before models can be placed in it. Do not thin it as it will not shine models if it is thinned. Soap is only available in 50 lb. bags last time I used it.
Models need to be wrapped 4" x 12" piece of cushioning from Paper Mart. Box for single model is a 6x4x3 tuck top mailer. 2 models fit in a 6x4x10.
Multiple models can then be placed in 8x8 or larger boxes for mass shipping.
Questions... just ask.
Stuff may seem simple to most of you. Sorry. Just trying to help.
Models are a nice way to generate an extra 1000 bucks a month if you need.Mike.
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