sidesh0wb0b
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GREAT!How's huntin' down in TN ?
when can i pencil you in?
GREAT!How's huntin' down in TN ?
I think the big takeaway I have right now is that for $429, I can get prints that rival the quality on my trio of $25k printers... Am I crazy to be looking at an envisiontec or Cara printer at this point??? I could get 12 Phrozens for the price of the Cara... 20 for the price of the envisiontec... Ugh. Really, my criteria for a perfect printer would be:
7x5x6" build volume
Xy accuracy of 50 microns
Z axis of 10 microns or better
Print speed of 50-75mm per hour.
Anyone know where this unicorn is??
"Dont fit the model"=I bought Anycybic Photon S all my prints dont even fit on the model. I am using nextdent cast resin, also i update thre firmwert., it got a little better but still not good enough i am using thre softwer for sliceing becouse of PWM File
Are you printing with the recommended settings ? Did you adjust for shrinkage ?I bought Anycybic Photon S all my prints dont even fit on the model. I am using nextdent cast resin, also i update thre firmwert., it got a little better but still not good enough i am using thre softwer for sliceing becouse of PWM File
What settings are you using for photon S on next dent cast resin?Are you printing with the recommended settings ? Did you adjust for shrinkage ?
I bought Anycybic Photon S all my prints dont even fit on the model. I am using nextdent cast resin, also i update thre firmwert., it got a little better but still not good enough i am using thre softwer for sliceing becouse of PWM File
I don't know, since don't use Nexdent resins... you should ask for the settings from them.What settings are you using for photon S on next dent cast resin?
a very affordable price.Xy accuracy of 47 microns.
Z axis thickness can go down to 1.25 microns
Open source, can use variety of resins
Free slicer software for nesting files
Spare parts cheap and on Amazon
Print time is the big drawback at 10-20mm/hr
This was my test print. Only post processing was wash in ipa and cure for 5mins. Printed with no additional supports, just as you see it.
View attachment 32145
Any guesses?? Oh, and it's under $1000
I can't really recommend any resin but I can recommend the process that will help you to determine what resin should be used and what settings will be appropriate. What you will need to do is print an object with known dimension such as a cube or a Sphere measuring it once it is printed and then investing even if the known Dimension is wrong because investment itself will also shrink or expand depending on the kind of investment used. Once your material has been cast or pressed, and divested then you may proceed to measuring the final object and quantifying that result against the known dimension to determine if your resin has been correctly printed. If at this point you determine that your object has been improperly printed you may adjust your settings accordingly. Many people try to adjust the printing settings before any investment has occurred but then have problems when it comes to fitting veneers crowns or anything else after pressing.Fantastic thread! Many thanks! Its helped me to move into 3D printing with more confidence. I just ordered a Photon S, wanted to order the Phrozen Shuffle but was sold out in Australia and didn't want to wait a month, so I'll experiment with the photon S and upgrade if necessary when needed.
Now looking to buy resin for burnout, any recommendations?
For clean up and curing I use the formlabs wash and cure ,overpriced but I ]have tried almost everything else DIY and cheaper units just doesnt worth the time and effort ,they work flawless in my hands I wish I had them from day one.
Speed is not requirement for me since everything I need is printing overnight I can care less if is 2,4,8 or 12 hours...lol
I print denture try ins,immediate dentures which are replaced with conventional process denture in 4-6 months ,temp hybrids,models for clear aligners,surgical guides,splints and occasional c&b model with dies (they are not perfect the first try it needs tweaking in exocad or shape but after couple of tries they just fine no complains there) .
So far in my hands I have had Moonray S, Formlabs 2,Moai ,wanhao Duplicator 7 ,Cara, Juell for couple of weeks and probably something else that i dont remember...
I end up with 3 Photons and Shufle and shufle XL.I ll get one of the photon S just to see what is new wit that unit.
For my needs I dont need speed and I dont print a lot c&b models.
I would rather have 4 printers for redundancy then one fast one ......that is just me ...
In case one goes down I grab the printer and dump it in the trash,switch the resin vat to the next one and move one with my day.
I had small issues with the moonray and Cara great printers but when they are down I m screwed I dont need support that cant do crap over the phone and im spending hours on the phone with repair department tinkering LCD screen projector,firmware ..screw that....... I would rather spend time on the front end learn how the printer works and then if issue arise fix it fast or dump the unit .
Photon printer cost less then bottle of nexdent or cara temp material....
If models were requirement i would get asiga max perfect models every single time ,open system super fast for half of the price just get the LCD version that was just announced which would be slower but same resolution.
The new Monnray looks like a big improvement over the old one also.
what did you find out ??Latest update. Anycubic has 2 "Model" materials. There is the dental, non-castable Skin, and the Basic Skin. From what I can see, the big difference is the shrinkage of the material. The dental cost is $120/L, the non-dental is $59/L. Figures... I have both and am running some side by side prints to see if there is a difference in fits... Will update when I know more.
That's an interesting way of going about it but I can see the merit in doing that. I would've gotten the printing measurements correct first and then tested and adjusted the casting/pressing expansions using the traditional liquid/powder expansion ratios of the investment...I can't really recommend any resin but I can recommend the process that will help you to determine what resin should be used and what settings will be appropriate. What you will need to do is print an object with known dimension such as a cube or a Sphere measuring it once it is printed and then investing even if the known Dimension is wrong because investment itself will also shrink or expand depending on the kind of investment used. Once your material has been cast or pressed, and divested then you may proceed to measuring the final object and quantifying that result against the known dimension to determine if your resin has been correctly printed. If at this point you determine that your object has been improperly printed you may adjust your settings accordingly. Many people try to adjust the printing settings before any investment has occurred but then have problems when it comes to fitting veneers crowns or anything else after pressing.
I got two of them working 2-3 shifts a day making C&B models... it is accurate as accurate a machine in that category can be. If you know its limitations and keep a tight process control then you can print good models 99% of the time.There is a ton of awesome information in this thread, a lot of it, but all good.
I have a very basic question: Is the Phrozen Shuffle good enough to print accurate model work, i.e. quarter arch and full arch models, from .stl files? We have a couple doctors wanting to send digital impressions but my boss doesn't want to do model-less crowns.
What resin do you find works best for models? I only have the clear yellow that came with it. I'll pick some other resins up ... as soon as I decide which ones.I got two of them working 2-3 shifts a day making C&B models... it is accurate as accurate a machine in that category can be. If you know its limitations and keep a tight process control then you can print good models 99% of the time.