Sintering Zirconia Q&A

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thewhitelab

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Hi again,

Thanks for the fast reply, that must be the problem!

I was just wondering if either of you could recommend any suppliers of Sintering Beads in the UK?

Regards,

~The White Lab
http://thewhitelab.co.uk/
 
BobCDT

BobCDT

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Hello, what do you think about my case? its a CubeX2 and it dont look good.... It should be colour A3,5. It dont have stain and glaze, only pre sintering Dental Direkt liquids and sintered. Do you think its over fired or underfired? What I did wrong?

I used this sintering cycle:

Ramp 1: 8° C per minute

High Temp 1: 900° C

Hold: 0 hr 30 min

Ramp 2: 3° C per minute

High Temp 2: 1550° C**

Hold: 2 hr 0 min

Cooling Reg: Cool to 400° C in 2 hours


After the unit was at 400° C I also let it cool in the chamber to 75° C and then I open slowly the chamber. (It have a autolift / autodown platform, like the porcelain furnaces, its has not a door to open).

The furnace its new, only used two times (one for the following cubex2 bridge) have four MoSi2 heating elements (should be new too).

Any help will be very much appreciated! Thank you all

Regards

View attachment 21175
View attachment 21171
View attachment 21172 View attachment 21173 View attachment 21174
I would calibrate the furnace. In addition, CubeX2 should have high temp of 1450.
 
Brent Harvey

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Hi again,

Thanks for the fast reply, that must be the problem!

I was just wondering if either of you could recommend any suppliers of Sintering Beads in the UK?

Regards,

~The White Lab
http://thewhitelab.co.uk/
I know it is late response for this. But i was just thinking and i believe Jensen is in the uk now. They would have sintering beads.
 
U

ugljanac

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Hello everybody, This is me again, I will post two photos, both crows should be A3,5, They are CubeX2, The theet 1.1 was sintered at 1450 C. The theet 2.1 was sintered at 1500 C. Both crowns looks too grey and with a pearly appearance, such as the colour having inside a marine oyster. The sintering same sintering curves for both crowns, the only difference was the high Temp (1450C and 1500C):

Ramp 1: 8° C per minute

High Temp 1: 900° C

Hold: 0 hr 30 min

Ramp 2: 3° C per minute

High Temp 2: 1550° C

Hold: 2 hr 0 min

Cooling Reg: Cool to 400° C in 2 hours and then let cool to room temperature naturally.

Both crowns, have grey effect Dental Direkt liquids in the incistal portion, A4+ in the cervical portion, SA2 in the incisal portion and dipping in A4 for about 1 minute. I let dry for about 2 hours at room temperature.

(Furnace and Heatting elements MoSi2 are brand new)

How can achieve better results? What I need to change?


Thank you very much, regards
View attachment 21199 View attachment 21200
Hello everybody, This is me again, I will post two photos, both crows should be A3,5, They are CubeX2, The theet 1.1 was sintered at 1450 C. The theet 2.1 was sintered at 1500 C. Both crowns looks too grey and with a pearly appearance, such as the colour having inside a marine oyster. The sintering same sintering curves for both crowns, the only difference was the high Temp (1450C and 1500C):

Ramp 1: 8° C per minute

High Temp 1: 900° C

Hold: 0 hr 30 min

Ramp 2: 3° C per minute

High Temp 2: 1550° C

Hold: 2 hr 0 min

Cooling Reg: Cool to 400° C in 2 hours and then let cool to room temperature naturally.

Both crowns, have grey effect Dental Direkt liquids in the incistal portion, A4+ in the cervical portion, SA2 in the incisal portion and dipping in A4 for about 1 minute. I let dry for about 2 hours at room temperature.

(Furnace and Heatting elements MoSi2 are brand new)

How can achieve better results? What I need to change?


Thank you very much, regards
View attachment 21199 View attachment 21200

Hallo my friend, i have a same problem
My cubic zirconia looks green and gray, it looks like yours
How do you solwe this problem
Thanks
 
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ugljanac

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My furnace is new, only have 10 firings
 
JMN

JMN

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My furnace is new, only have 10 firings
Sometimes they need a break-in period to fully stabilize, then you can check the temps and adjust accordingly. It was tested at the factory, but since then it's been bounce around in at least three vehicles and been in at least 3 different (non-vehicular) environments.

and

Greetings Earthing! Welcome!
 
elpiojoxp

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Hallo my friend, i have a same problem
My cubic zirconia looks green and gray, it looks like yours
How do you solwe this problem
Thanks
Hello dude, I just make this sintering curve:

Ramp 1: 8° C per minute

High Temp 1: 900° C

Hold: 0 hr 30 min

Ramp 2: 3° C per minute

High Temp 2: 1450° C

Hold: 2 hr 0 min

Cooling Reg: Cool to 400° C in 2 hours and then let cool to room temperature naturally.

In my experience, all zirconia crows dont look good after sintering, you need to stain and glaze it, and then you can get a good product.

I cant attach the photos because it said "they are too big", send me you email and I can send you a couple if you want.

Regards
 
shamalam

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Need help!! I cant figure out why my bridges are looking opacious on the pontics and thicker screw retained full zirconia crowns! FullSizeR1 (1).jpg FullSizeR1 (1).jpg
 
Brent Harvey

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please let us know your firing cycle and what type of zirconia it is. This will help us allot.
 
Joe

Joe

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that's kind of the way it goes with zirconia. Is this a new occurrence? Did they used to be ok?
 
shamalam

shamalam

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Sorry about that! Firing on my Mihm Vogt Speed is 1)7/min to 900 (0 hold),2)10min to 1550(120 min hold),3) 6/min to 900 (0 hold),4) 8/min to 200. And yes they used to come out fine before a couple of weeks ago.

Argen Esthetic Zirconia pucks
 
Joe

Joe

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you may have an element that's going bad. We had this happen a while ago. It seems like it wouldn't run at all if you have a bad element, but it could struggle to heat and heat unevenly for a while until it finally dies. You could pop the top of the furnace and carefully pull the elements out to check them.
 
Joe

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also, we got a batch of bad zirconia once. Drove me crazy trying to trouble shoot until we realized all the weird zirconia came from the same manufacturer and the same lot.
 
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Guys, anyone using speed sinter cycle for Katana UTML/STML? Just bought cad cam and new Nabertherm speed furnace and I did two crowns yesterday and they seem quite ok but are still a little to opaque. I was expecting more lively crowns then they came out. At least I've seen some amazing crowns from Katana and mine seem average. Any suggestions?
 
G

grantoz

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you have been to macdonalds right!, its just like the pretty picture on the wall and then you open the burger box does it look like the picture on the wall ? no. all jokes aside it takes time to master any of these materials and stains it will take time to dial in your firing programs. an easy way to eliminate if you have over or under fired is just check the fit of a 3 unit bridge if the temp is right it will fit .this is an easy starting point particularly if you have already been using the furnace a while and things were going good. greying like i have seen in the photos usually means you have an element on the way out the other thing you should check is the aluminium braided cables connecting the elements as they break down after a while you get poor contact and therefore not enough current to reach the correct temp. i would also strongly recommend that you dont use lower strength zi for bridges i have seen a few break in the posterior.
 
JMN

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Guys, anyone using speed sinter cycle for Katana UTML/STML? Just bought cad cam and new Nabertherm speed furnace and I did two crowns yesterday and they seem quite ok but are still a little to opaque. I was expecting more lively crowns then they came out. At least I've seen some amazing crowns from Katana and mine seem average. Any suggestions?
How new is the furnace? Have you broken it in yet? They do need to get 'burnt in' before they settle to their operating specifications.
 
R

rookiee

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How new is the furnace? Have you broken it in yet? They do need to get 'burnt in' before they settle to their operating specifications.

Yes, I ran that cycle twice. Actually everytime I also get 04-04 error which is described in manual but without explanation. It's just there as configured alarm. The crowns fit ok, they were on final temp as stated in speed program for Katana, I'm just not near satisfied with the result. I will attach the photos, my friend already glazed it and stain it unfortunately but I think you can all see "dead" result. What I've seen on IDS etc I've seen great result with just glaze. I will try "long" program also as stated in manual for Katana blocks. _DSC0488.JPG _DSC0489.JPG _DSC0490.JPG _DSC0491.JPG
 
Car 54

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Yes, I ran that cycle twice. Actually everytime I also get 04-04 error which is described in manual but without explanation. It's just there as configured alarm. The crowns fit ok, they were on final temp as stated in speed program for Katana, I'm just not near satisfied with the result. I will attach the photos, my friend already glazed it and stain it unfortunately but I think you can all see "dead" result. What I've seen on IDS etc I've seen great result with just glaze. I will try "long" program also as stated in manual for Katana blocks. View attachment 27077 View attachment 27078 View attachment 27079 View attachment 27080

You're right, not as pretty and as trans as they should come out. It looks like to much white stain was applied to the Inc 1/3rd, making it look a
little white and opaque?

For the long program, do you mean the 7+ hour (mine is 7:15) program? I haven't sintered one in awhile, but STML for singles were
coming out great with that program (Programat S1 1600).
 
R

rookiee

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You're right, not as pretty and as trans as they should come out. It looks like to much white stain was applied to the Inc 1/3rd, making it look a
little white and opaque?

For the long program, do you mean the 7+ hour (mine is 7:15) program? I haven't sintered one in awhile, but STML for singles were
coming out great with that program (Programat S1 1600).

No, I've used 90 min cycle, please see attached photo. The crowns were stain on margin part and a little blue on incisal, no white stains or similar. So something is wrong I guess. 90min.JPG
 
shamalam

shamalam

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you may have an element that's going bad. We had this happen a while ago. It seems like it wouldn't run at all if you have a bad element, but it could struggle to heat and heat unevenly for a while until it finally dies. You could pop the top of the furnace and carefully pull the elements out to check them.
I popped it open. They are fine. Im thinking I need to use a separate bridge program. Slower and a little bit hotter at the hold time. Ill let you know what happens. Thanks for that though.
 

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