Sintering Zirconia Q&A

ts4341

ts4341

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Hmmmm2
there are 9 patents to the multi-layer zirconia. We are patenting the processing method of how we process the 7 layer zirconia.
Why advertise it for the last 1.5 years?...Hmmmm2
 
Brent Harvey

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Hmmmm2Why advertise it for the last 1.5 years?...Hmmmm2
I honestly wish i had a good answer for you, but i don't. When it is available i will be singing loud and clear on here!
 
ts4341

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No kidding Pearl Dental, thanks for the heads up... Thanks for monitoring the thread:Congrats::Top:
 
ts4341

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Blake thanks for purchase.... Good deal
 
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spokas

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it is a full contour of yours, maybe problem is in stains? but all of them should be the same colour, now one molar looks a bit darker.. weird..
No mine crowns color was perfect as a i wanted, but fitting was total failure.
 
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Sintering Times:

Do sintering times depend on the furnace or brand of Zr?

If times are dependent on brand of material, who offers the fastest sintering Zr?

Thanks.
 
PearlZ

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Sintering Times:

Do sintering times depend on the furnace or brand of Zr?

If times are dependent on brand of material, who offers the fastest sintering Zr?

Thanks.

neither, it depends on the desired outcome.

any zirconia must be slow cooled for two reasons: 1. strength, rapid cooling can induce microcracks or even large-a$$ cracks if done really ridiculously too fast. 2. aesthetics. cooling quick makes it more opaque, even in already opaque zirconia.

so while it is technically possible to slow cool or fast-sinter, it generally isnt a desired option due to the nature of the material - you will note that some furnace manufacturers give a speed sinter program, but the fine print shows this is only 'indicated' for copings and single units. copings don't have to look good and singles are pittance cases. they dont want you to do it to bridges or roundhouses or big prettau thingies because they will not look good or will cost you an arm and a leg to redo and youll scream loudly on the internet that your furnace is suck.
 
Patrick Coon

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neither, it depends on the desired outcome.

any zirconia must be slow cooled for two reasons: 1. strength, rapid cooling can induce microcracks or even large-a$$ cracks if done really ridiculously too fast. 2. aesthetics. cooling quick makes it more opaque, even in already opaque zirconia.

so while it is technically possible to slow cool or fast-sinter, it generally isnt a desired option due to the nature of the material - you will note that some furnace manufacturers give a speed sinter program, but the fine print shows this is only 'indicated' for copings and single units. copings don't have to look good and singles are pittance cases. they dont want you to do it to bridges or roundhouses or big prettau thingies because they will not look good or will cost you an arm and a leg to redo and youll scream loudly on the internet that your furnace is suck.

Yes, and No.

Each zirconia does have it's manufacturer recommended programs for sintering (usually a standard program and a speed program). And if they have different sintering furnaces, they may even have different programs based on the zirconia and the furnace technology. I ALWAYS recommend talking with your zirconia manufacturer to get their approved sintering parameters, as they know this works. As you go outside of these, things are not as predictable.

And as PearlZ says, fast sintering (75 minutes for single copings, 90 minutes for bridge frameworks) is achievable because you don't need/want these to really be translucent, you want strength and are going to FULLY layer for esthetics. But you shouldn't think about doing a fast sintering program (75 minutes/90minutes) for full contour crowns and bridges unless the manufacturer gives you the proper parameters (there are some that work, depending on the material, but they are approximately 3 hours and 4.5 hours respectively. And NEVER if using coloring liquids when fast sintering).

ALWAYS do a standard program (7.5 hours or longer, depending on the zirconia and furnace) when doing Long span bridges, All-on-4 cases, or using coloring liquids.
 
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unless the manufacturer gives you the proper parameters (there are some that work, depending on the material....

Thank you both for the information. Do you know off-hand which manufacturers have these materials available? Thanks!
 
Patrick Coon

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Thank you both for the information. Do you know off-hand which manufacturers have these materials available? Thanks!

unless the manufacturer gives you the proper parameters (there are some that work, depending on the material, but they are approximately 3 hours and 4.5 hours respectively

The Zenostar from Ivoclar/Wieland has these firing parameters, IF fired in the Ivoclar Programat S1 sintering furnace. I'm sure other manufacturers also have similar programs, but I have no specifics.
 
Brent Harvey

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Yes, and No.

Each zirconia does have it's manufacturer recommended programs for sintering (usually a standard program and a speed program). And if they have different sintering furnaces, they may even have different programs based on the zirconia and the furnace technology. I ALWAYS recommend talking with your zirconia manufacturer to get their approved sintering parameters, as they know this works. As you go outside of these, things are not as predictable.

And as PearlZ says, fast sintering (75 minutes for single copings, 90 minutes for bridge frameworks) is achievable because you don't need/want these to really be translucent, you want strength and are going to FULLY layer for esthetics. But you shouldn't think about doing a fast sintering program (75 minutes/90minutes) for full contour crowns and bridges unless the manufacturer gives you the proper parameters (there are some that work, depending on the material, but they are approximately 3 hours and 4.5 hours respectively. And NEVER if using coloring liquids when fast sintering).

ALWAYS do a standard program (7.5 hours or longer, depending on the zirconia and furnace) when doing Long span bridges, All-on-4 cases, or using coloring liquids.
also keep in mind it also matters how many units you are firing at one time. If you only have 1 or 2 you can get away with sintering it at a faster time.
 
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Hi everyone. I have been seeing allot of questions about sintering on here lately and wanted to create a thread where all of these questions and answers can be in one place, to make it easier for people to search later on. So any questions you have on sintering feel free to post her and DLN will help you out!
We are having some issues with our imagine cracking could our fast program be contributing to this I do use fg fine diamonds to touch up the anatomy
 
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We are having some cracking issues with imagine could our fast program contribute to this, I do use the fg fine diamonds to touchup the anatomy is this my problem. we use the dekema furnace fast cycle some times.
 
Patrick Coon

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Are you thoroughly drying your units in a drying oven or under a heat lamp before sintering? This is very important to avoid cracking. Single units 30minutes @ 80C, Bridges up to 4 units 2hr @ 80C, Long span/Full arches at least 4hrs @ 80C.

As for touching up the anatomy with a FG diamond, USE LOTS OF WATER! If you are seeing them "light up" then you are going too fast/applying too much pressure.
 
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whitey

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Are you thoroughly drying your units in a drying oven or under a heat lamp before sintering? This is very important to avoid cracking. Single units 30minutes @ 80C, Bridges up to 4 units 2hr @ 80C, Long span/Full arches at least 4hrs @ 80C.

As for touching up the anatomy with a FG diamond, USE LOTS OF WATER! If you are seeing them "light up" then you are going too fast/applying too much pressure.
Thanks Patrick we think it is our drying cycle is to fast for imagine Thanks again Dave Smet
 
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neither, it depends on the desired outcome.

any zirconia must be slow cooled for two reasons: 1. strength, rapid cooling can induce microcracks or even large-a$$ cracks if done really ridiculously too fast. 2. aesthetics. cooling quick makes it more opaque, even in already opaque zirconia.

When you are talking about slow cooling, is that the final "natural" cool down? Does natural cool down mean you need to cool it at the same rate as the furnace bricks inside the oven would cool down? Can you crack the door on the furnace in the final cool to speed things up or would that introduce the aforementioned problems?
 
Patrick Coon

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When you are talking about slow cooling, is that the final "natural" cool down? Does natural cool down mean you need to cool it at the same rate as the furnace bricks inside the oven would cool down? Can you crack the door on the furnace in the final cool to speed things up or would that introduce the aforementioned problems?

Natural cool means leave it shut and let it cool. If you crack open the door you have just increased the cooling rate and could cause issues with cracking.
 

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