Screw retained

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Monica Ragaie Basta

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Cycle for separation of screw retained restoration
Without oxide layer formation ?
 
Car 54

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I use Chromaloy polish (I believe that's what it's called) it's the green stuff with a straight handpiece hard felt wheel.
You could also use a high-shine silicon wheel.
 
Contraluz

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Thanks it’s so informative
How can i repollish ? I didn’t work with metal before
Use a Robinson bristle and whatever polishing compound you use to polish ceramics. It'll work. If you want to get rid of the oxidation layer on the abutment interface, use a previously used bristle and -slightly- retouch the metal surface. If you are not careful, you will alter the interface and the restoration wont fit anymore and chances are it'll get loose, further down the road.

But If you use a certain implant brand, previously discussed here on the board, that will happen anyway...

Vroam
 
Andrew Priddy

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soft brush and diamond paste is what I use... on a low speed. you can also re-hone the screw seat using diamond paste and an old screw for that system
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diamond paste with machine oil
cut the index out of the analog to spin the analog in the seat.
a high speed bur in a holder fits Straumann BL screw bores I've reseated Many long span cast-to's
these were the layered ti days
 
Contraluz

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I use Chromaloy polish (I believe that's what it's called) it's the green stuff with a straight handpiece hard felt wheel.
You could also use a high-shine silicon wheel.
I use WOW from DVA for pretty much everything, including PMMA if is it is a small piece and I am too lazy to get up to polish it on the lath
 
Car 54

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I've found for myself, I have more control in situations like these as well as with PFM metal collars, using the hard knife edge felt wheels. Granted, I'm not pushing into, gouging into things, but it is more precise in where I can control the "edge" and where it's polishing, compared to bristles that are splaying out.
 
Contraluz

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I've found for myself, I have more control in situations like these as well as with PFM metal collars, using the hard knife edge felt wheels. Granted, I'm not pushing into, gouging into things, but it is more precise in where I can control the "edge" and where it's polishing, compared to bristles that are splaying out.
You definitely have a point there. I usually pre polish with a rubber wheel and then go over it with bristles and polishing compound, without much pressure applied.
 
Car 54

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I've found for myself, I have more control in situations like these as well as with PFM metal collars, using the hard knife edge felt wheels. Granted, I'm not pushing into, gouging into things, but it is more precise in where I can control the "edge" and where it's polishing, compared to bristles that are splaying out.
Just thought I'd update this as far as the wheel which you can get from VH Technologies. They treat the edge to firm it up, but I soften the edge a bit by rotating it and tapping it against the counter with a small lab hammer. When I ordered these about a week after this post, they mentioned someone else had ordered them just a day or two before I did, so I thought this may help if it was someone from the forum.

magnifier_20221114_045807.jpg
 
millennium

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Just thought I'd update this as far as the wheel which you can get from VH Technologies. They treat the edge to firm it up, but I soften the edge a bit by rotating it and tapping it against the counter with a small lab hammer. When I ordered these about a week after this post, they mentioned someone else had ordered them just a day or two before I did, so I thought this may help if it was someone from the forum.

View attachment 41855
These look useful, what are they called and what is vh Technologies?
 
Car 54

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These look useful, what are they called and what is vh Technologies?
They're the makers of DiaShine, IMO, some of the best polishes out there. The wheels are the straight handpiece treated knife edge felt wheels, and come a dozen a pack. They will last you for years.

 
millennium

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They're the makers of DiaShine, IMO, some of the best polishes out there. The wheels are the straight handpiece treated knife edge felt wheels, and come a dozen a pack. They will last you for years.

Thank you very much! I am ordering right now.
 
millennium

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They're the makers of DiaShine, IMO, some of the best polishes out there. The wheels are the straight handpiece treated knife edge felt wheels, and come a dozen a pack. They will last you for years.

What is this wheel called, I cannot find it on their site.
 
Car 54

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What is this wheel called, I cannot find it on their site.
They're "special order", they really don't advertise them. They are in WA state, so you will need to wait an hour? to get ahold of them @ 888 628 8300. See if they will send you a free sample of the DiaShine Fine, it would be worth trying :)
 
millennium

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They're the makers of DiaShine, IMO, some of the best polishes out there. The wheels are the straight handpiece treated knife edge felt wheels, and come a dozen a pack. They will last you for years.

What is this wheel called, I cannot find it on their site.
They're "special order", they really don't advertise them. They are in WA state, so you will need to wait an hour? to get ahold of them @ 888 628 8300. See if they will send you a free sample of the DiaShine Fine, it would be worth trying :)
Thank you!
 
A2WILLDO

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You don't need to run a cycle to de-cement. I bury the abutment up to the margin in a chunk of soft sagger tray liner on a tray with the whole thing standing vertical. Then I run it 3/4 the way up into the muffle of the furnace with it at its idle temp of 400 or 450, let it hang out there for 3 to 5 minutes depending on the thickness of the crown. Drop it down, let it cool and if doesn't separate, run it back up for a little longer than before. I rarely get any oxidation on the abutment unless I forget to set a timer.
 
rkm rdt

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You don't need to run a cycle to de-cement. I bury the abutment up to the margin in a chunk of soft sagger tray liner on a tray with the whole thing standing vertical. Then I run it 3/4 the way up into the muffle of the furnace with it at its idle temp of 400 or 450, let it hang out there for 3 to 5 minutes depending on the thickness of the crown. Drop it down, let it cool and if doesn't separate, run it back up for a little longer than before. I rarely get any oxidation on the abutment unless I forget to set a timer.
good idea.
soft putty?
 

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