Problem with removing from build tray

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digimiller

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Hello all,
So I am using a Rapidshape printer D40 (fairly new... 20-30 prints),I have an issue with removing models with dies from the build tray. It is stuck on so tight and difficult to remove. I can not go below 150% burn in factor because of the new resin material I am trying. I do print the models and dies separately but the models are hard to take off. As well i do get a flash shiny layer on the base of the model which is separated from build tray. I design with exocad. I am fairly beginner to the digital world from old style of doing everything manually.
 
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digimiller

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Thanks, WIll Try
 
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digimiller

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its still on tight... broke few models... How can i upload pics?
 
JMN

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its still on tight... broke few models... How can i upload pics?
You'll need to host them somewhere and then put the url in the image link box shown below

1602205080245.png
 
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digimiller

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If someone can check that and advise
 
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Wainwright

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Have you talked to their support team? Is this normal?

If it was a Formlabs printer its the initial cure layer exposure is too high...

Some companies to remove this problem require rafts or a supporting structure to be generated in the nesting or CAM software. Something is missing here.

Good luck, let us know what support says.
 
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bigj1972

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If someone can check that and advise
Yeah..use a raft. That build plate is problematic. Pros: prints will stick during process, Cons prints will stick after process.
Spray bottle with alcohol might help. Maybe spray from back side.
Nice printer though. 👍
 
DylandeBoer

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Yeah..use a raft. That build plate is problematic. Pros: prints will stick during process, Cons prints will stick after process.
Spray bottle with alcohol might help. Maybe spray from back side.
Nice printer though. 👍
I had similar issue with my D40II also, i switched to a very thin blade scraper and when even that didnt always work i just did small support structures with a thin baseplate instead of direct to platform building. If direct to platform printing is required, just throw the model into a stl editor and create a chamfer of an edge so you can get a too under, hell even just cut a small section on an edge so you can lever the model up slowly.

The issue is a lot of people also force the tool up once its under a small portion and that motion is what snaps it, you want to get under the model with the least amount of upward force.
 
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Foggy_in_RI

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Have you tried polishing/smoothing the plate to some degree? I know that in contrast if you had an issue with parts falling off that roughening the plate provides greater retention.
 
DylandeBoer

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Have you tried polishing/smoothing the plate to some degree? I know that in contrast if you had an issue with parts falling off that roughening the plate provides greater retention.
I would strongly avoid doing this especially with the D40II, considering the tray needs to be perfectly level if you start adjusting the surface no matter how miniscule it may throw off the prints. Granted it would need to most likely be significant alteration to create noticeable effects, there is a lot more that can be attempted before altering the machine components.
 
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digimiller

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OK guys... i was using a third party resin (very runny) and maybe that is why the print came like that... I went back to the Profiled Rapidshape Resin and got amazing results... Also i use Methyl Hydrate to wash and i am getting amazing results compared Iso propyl alcohol 99... any thoughts on that?
 
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bigj1972

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Have you tried polishing/smoothing the plate to some degree? I know that in contrast if you had an issue with parts falling off that roughening the plate provides greater retention.
DylandeBoer is correct, just need to print support layer to create damage control.
 
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bigj1972

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OK guys... i was using a third party resin (very runny) and maybe that is why the print came like that... I went back to the Profiled Rapidshape Resin and got amazing results... Also i use Methyl Hydrate to wash and i am getting amazing results compared Iso propyl alcohol 99... any thoughts on that?
Keep in mind that stuff will poison you! Remember the sanitizers scare?
Ingesting as little as 10 mL (0.34 US fl oz) of pure methanol can cause permanent blindness by destruction of the optic nerve.

Is methyl hydrate toxic?
Toxic by ingestion, inhalation or absorption through skin, potentially causing irreversible effects. Irritating to eye, skin and respiratory tract. Shortness of breath, nausea, headache. May be fatal or cause blindness if swallowed.
 
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DylandeBoer

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OK guys... i was using a third party resin (very runny) and maybe that is why the print came like that... I went back to the Profiled Rapidshape Resin and got amazing results... Also i use Methyl Hydrate to wash and i am getting amazing results compared Iso propyl alcohol 99... any thoughts on that?
Simply put Methyl Hydrate separates liquid resin from cured pieces better, deconstructing the science behind it would be a lengthier conversation but that are numerous materials that are now recommending using Methyl Hydrate over Isopropyl Alcohol, as a cheaper alternative. Its similar to using Sodium Hydroxide (Lye Crystals) was recommended for removing the matrix support layer on Stratasys printed models.

As far as using 3rd party resins, you will also always have a bit more struggle as they were not designed for the workflow of the printer in questions, although with using netFabb you do have access to a lot more variable control compared to PreForm or other nesting software, you can better dial in results but you will always have a bit more struggle since the material was not design for that printer from conception.
 
JMN

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To use printers safely they and their post processing must have adequate ventilation. Whether using IPA or not.

Your hands, your body generally, was not designed with high concentration high purity long term contact with pretty much anything but water.

Have some chloryl hydrate and you won't care for a few hours.
 
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