Printing with the ProJet 1200

sidesh0wb0b

sidesh0wb0b

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I tried to love this little printer but........We used the printer for a few months and got average results. The fits were excellent, but there was excessive distortion on the occlusions and loss of detail. Not great for copings because they came out about twice as thick as they should have been. It would produce nice margins that would be difficult to mill. Full contour crowns required excessive spacing. There is no good reason why you should have to design a FC crown way out of occlusion to get the results you want. Also the material was difficult to burn out properly. Thick patterns or large bridges would split molds even with slow burnout.

Maybe the new FTX cast will help, and maybe software improvements will solve the Z axis problems. That is a lot of maybes for $5.5k. Meanwhile we bought our second mill (DWX 50) and get excellent fits, superb detail, and fast wax burnout.

If you need an "inexpensive" output solution or a backup and don't expect great results then maybe this is the printer for you. It is not bad, just not great. I hope they work the "challenges" out. I'd definitely buy a "second generation" printer in this class and production capability.
if you still have it, I would HIGHLY suggest revisiting the prints with the FTX Cast. all those problems were solved with that material.
 
Hary

Hary

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Hi, is there a seller in Canada Quebec for this printers plus if I can send an STL file to try the fits?
 
sidesh0wb0b

sidesh0wb0b

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Hi, is there a seller in Canada Quebec for this printers plus if I can send an STL file to try the fits?
I would assume CadBlu, WhipMix or one of the other resellers would sell in Canada as well. im not positive but I cant imagine they wouldn't. most of them should give you some trial prints too. heck, if you pay return shipping ill print you some.
 
GoldRunner

GoldRunner

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So are the dimensional problems solved with the new material?

The die fit was excellent, but occlusal detail was lost and also required excessive occlusal spacing. Copings would turn out twice as thick as they were designed. Full contour crowns would lose a lot of detail and have to be unreasonably spaced.
 
sidesh0wb0b

sidesh0wb0b

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So are the dimensional problems solved with the new material?

The die fit was excellent, but occlusal detail was lost and also required excessive occlusal spacing. Copings would turn out twice as thick as they were designed. Full contour crowns would lose a lot of detail and have to be unreasonably spaced.
dimensions are perfect. contacts and occlusion are right where they are designed in your CAD. the pictures I posted are all from real cases that were in house. these weren't "sample" prints. they were pressed or cast as normal and the cases have been seated with great feedback all around.
copings ive printed come out .3mm as specified. no more, no less. spot on.
 
NicelyMKV

NicelyMKV

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dimensions are perfect. contacts and occlusion are right where they are designed in your CAD. the pictures I posted are all from real cases that were in house. these weren't "sample" prints. they were pressed or cast as normal and the cases have been seated with great feedback all around.
copings ive printed come out .3mm as specified. no more, no less. spot on.
Rapid burnout technique work ok?
 
sidesh0wb0b

sidesh0wb0b

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Rapid burnout technique work ok?
yes! thank god!!!

the wax/resin material is FAR better than the resin FTX Green crap. I rapid burnout everything and it presses/casts just fine. in fact, with the wax/resin vs hand waxed crowns we actually see LESS reaction layer on our emax pressings. I don't have a reason for it, but you wont hear me complain!
 
GoldRunner

GoldRunner

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Really? Just my bad luck. I loved the little printer but traded it in on a new DWX-50. The printer does many things better than a milling machine. If the print material is "the solution" then I am extremely pissed. Of course having 2 mills is nice, but the PJ 1200 could do some amazing things.
 
claude

claude

New Member
Hi all
Does any have the burn out procedures for the ftx cast .....that would be awesome
Thanks
 
capickettcdt

capickettcdt

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Claude, et all;
remember that the burn-out procedure has more to do with the material you are using in the mold after the burn out so take a look at those manufacturers (alloy or glass) recommendations first. Next we have a procedure for the use of FORMULA 1 investment and rapid burn out. Send your e-mail to [email protected] and Will D is going to get that right to you. there are also some issues with humidity across the nation right now, so if you are cracking or blowing the tops or sides off of rings and using plastic tops and bases with silicone rings, you might consider removing the investment from the ring after the initial bench set and letting it stand on the bench another 5 minutes. This gives the heat in the investment time to push out some of the trapped excess moisture.
Jewelers have been known to coat the FTX Green material with a spray of KRYLON Clear Acrylic. It burns off first and then the FTX. Don't think that it would work for us in dental but just FYI.
 
sidesh0wb0b

sidesh0wb0b

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Full Member
Hi all
Does any have the burn out procedures for the ftx cast .....that would be awesome
Thanks
for the FTX Cast you should be able to follow manufacturers instructions on proper burnout

I use Microstar HS rapid burnout with zero failures (FTX Cast). in fact, my prints are PERFECT now....just in time for 3dSystems to introduce their replacement for Geomagic lol
 
Z

zahni

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Hello,

anyone printig partial frames? Or is the platform to small for that?
 
Sam-CAP

Sam-CAP

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still? working fine over here.
We stopped working on it after a month or so. If we continued our relationship with 3DSystems we would have certainly figured it out but we had to move on.
 
sidesh0wb0b

sidesh0wb0b

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We stopped working on it after a month or so. If we continued our relationship with 3DSystems we would have certainly figured it out but we had to move on.
ah ok, that makes sense
 
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