TheLabGuy
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I knew there was some good 'Looney's' in Canada!!!!!!! ayyy
I knew there was some good 'Looney's' in Canada!!!!!!! ayyy
hydent
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Your loonys and toonys would do his collection no good anyways, we only except good ol american coin.
rkm rdt
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I think our Canadian Tire money is worth more these days,thanks Obama and president Hillary!
TheLabGuy
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What are you doing out of your igloo anyways, you should be hibernating still?
CatamountRob
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He's carving a couple of new seal clubs in his spare time.
hydent
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First time I went to Canada, the first store I went to was Canadian Tire and no **** I thouht the Canadian tire money was actually money because I'd never seen canadian paper money...never felt so stupid in my life LOL. Honestly though I love Canada I wish I lived there in a lot of ways Canadians don't know how good they have it.
rkm rdt
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We are truly blessed to live here and having great neighbours makes it even more special.
rkm rdt
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The geese are back and the sap is running! NHL playoffs begin soon.BEST TIME OF THE YEAR.
...snow is just about gone too.I heard you received 13 inches the other day.Did it snow there as well?
ound: A
AL1
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Thanks for the sarcasm rdt, didn't your mother tell you if you don`t have anything nice to say , don`t sat anything at all.
I just asked a simple question, so you can quit that self righteous pompous attitude,it doesn't answer the question.
I thought this forum was for constructive criticism and helpful suggestions.
I just asked a simple question, so you can quit that self righteous pompous attitude,it doesn't answer the question.
I thought this forum was for constructive criticism and helpful suggestions.
rkm rdt
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"I thought this forum was for constructive criticism and helpful suggestions. "
I found your response to my suggestion to be rude and snotty so I gave it back to you.
If you are so tight for money,why the heck would you waste it on a point and shoot?
Commenting on my financial situation as a response has no relevence to this subject.
I found your response to my suggestion to be rude and snotty so I gave it back to you.
If you are so tight for money,why the heck would you waste it on a point and shoot?
Commenting on my financial situation as a response has no relevence to this subject.
user name
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That time of the month, huh. Youre both pretty. Back to topic...theres always a bigger, better everything. If you look at it the other way around, any info besides a prescription or your memory is going to help. A pocket camera would be great if you had nothing currently. I would go to a photo shop and ask what has macro abilities and have them show how it works. Brush your teeth before you go, and open wide. I think getting the flash IN the mouth is the most important. Get somthing you can not just zoom, but shoot physically up close.
Now you guys get along.
Now you guys get along.
JonB
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A lot of good advice being given - hopefully some of it will be applied.
I grew up poor and couldn't afford things just because i wanted them - so learning this lesson that was drilled into me all my life comes into play here...
If money is tight - your best bet is only spending it on equipment that will last a long time. That way you aren't throwing good money after bad when the cheap crap breaks or the used piece of gear finally gives out.
Buying used is a great way to save some cash - but - if you don't know what you're buying - you can throw away an awful lot of money. That is why i always highly recommend KEH - Buy & Sell New & Used Cameras – Canon, Nikon, Hasselblad, Leica & More - KEH.com over just about everyone else out there - due to their rating system and their business ethics just dominate the market in used gear.
Lets say you find a pawn shop gem or a craigslist camera for a great price - with all of the ways people can sell used items, you have to ask yourself "why is this so cheap"? ... and "why is it in a pawn shop and not on ebay?"
What if that gem has some sort of shutter damage from some idiot who used one of those little compressed air cans to "clean" the inside of the camera? New shutters can be very expensive!
Or how many times was that cheap camera dropped on the ground? It may never focus correctly ever again! Who is going to tell you that?
Or maybe its just slap worn out - "rode hard and put up wet" so to speak. Shutters have a designed failure rate built in - the cheaper the camera - the lower number of shutter actuations before it has to be replaced.
I just sold one of my pro bodies - it was about two years old, i had it sent in to Canon Professional Services to clean and check it out before i sold it - as that is the right thing to do if you wish to be fair to your buyer. I also asked them to get a shutter count on it (something that isn't easy to do on Canon cameras). It had 106,000 shutter clicks - that would mean certain death to most cheaper or lower quality cameras. (Kit cameras from both Nikon and Canon) The 1D Mark III is rated for 300,000 shutter clicks though and the buyer was informed before he paid me my asking price. It wasn't an issue to him - nor should it be. But how many pawn shops or amateur photographers you find on craigslist are going to give you a shutter count or even a decent evaluation of the condition of the camera you want to buy? Be careful - cheap isn't always best. I provided my buyer with the report from CPS that showed their evaluation and shutter count - expect the same from whomever you buy from!
--
One correction - i read something above that needs to be addressed. Just because there are spots on an image that was shot at high aperture does NOT mean there is damage to the camera. It simply means there is dirt on the sensor. All cameras with removable lenses eventually have to have the sensor cleaned. Some dirt is pesky as hell to get off. The sensor cover can get scratched if cleaning is done improperly. (another thing to know when buying used - you don't want a scratched sensor cover!) If you've never done it or are unsure - always send your camera in to either Nikon or Canon and let them risk scratching your sensor - if they do, they replace it for free - if you do... guess who pays!
High aperture (ƒ 11 to ƒ 32) actually creates such a situation as too much depth-of-field on the camera end and shows every bit of dirt laying on the sensor in nearly sharp detail. I have to clean my sensors almost every night after an airshow or air-to-air mission as these are dusty environments.
Hope this info helps!
I grew up poor and couldn't afford things just because i wanted them - so learning this lesson that was drilled into me all my life comes into play here...
If money is tight - your best bet is only spending it on equipment that will last a long time. That way you aren't throwing good money after bad when the cheap crap breaks or the used piece of gear finally gives out.
Buying used is a great way to save some cash - but - if you don't know what you're buying - you can throw away an awful lot of money. That is why i always highly recommend KEH - Buy & Sell New & Used Cameras – Canon, Nikon, Hasselblad, Leica & More - KEH.com over just about everyone else out there - due to their rating system and their business ethics just dominate the market in used gear.
Lets say you find a pawn shop gem or a craigslist camera for a great price - with all of the ways people can sell used items, you have to ask yourself "why is this so cheap"? ... and "why is it in a pawn shop and not on ebay?"
What if that gem has some sort of shutter damage from some idiot who used one of those little compressed air cans to "clean" the inside of the camera? New shutters can be very expensive!
Or how many times was that cheap camera dropped on the ground? It may never focus correctly ever again! Who is going to tell you that?
Or maybe its just slap worn out - "rode hard and put up wet" so to speak. Shutters have a designed failure rate built in - the cheaper the camera - the lower number of shutter actuations before it has to be replaced.
I just sold one of my pro bodies - it was about two years old, i had it sent in to Canon Professional Services to clean and check it out before i sold it - as that is the right thing to do if you wish to be fair to your buyer. I also asked them to get a shutter count on it (something that isn't easy to do on Canon cameras). It had 106,000 shutter clicks - that would mean certain death to most cheaper or lower quality cameras. (Kit cameras from both Nikon and Canon) The 1D Mark III is rated for 300,000 shutter clicks though and the buyer was informed before he paid me my asking price. It wasn't an issue to him - nor should it be. But how many pawn shops or amateur photographers you find on craigslist are going to give you a shutter count or even a decent evaluation of the condition of the camera you want to buy? Be careful - cheap isn't always best. I provided my buyer with the report from CPS that showed their evaluation and shutter count - expect the same from whomever you buy from!
--
One correction - i read something above that needs to be addressed. Just because there are spots on an image that was shot at high aperture does NOT mean there is damage to the camera. It simply means there is dirt on the sensor. All cameras with removable lenses eventually have to have the sensor cleaned. Some dirt is pesky as hell to get off. The sensor cover can get scratched if cleaning is done improperly. (another thing to know when buying used - you don't want a scratched sensor cover!) If you've never done it or are unsure - always send your camera in to either Nikon or Canon and let them risk scratching your sensor - if they do, they replace it for free - if you do... guess who pays!
High aperture (ƒ 11 to ƒ 32) actually creates such a situation as too much depth-of-field on the camera end and shows every bit of dirt laying on the sensor in nearly sharp detail. I have to clean my sensors almost every night after an airshow or air-to-air mission as these are dusty environments.
Hope this info helps!
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Darren S
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The geese are back and the sap is running! NHL playoffs begin soon.BEST TIME OF THE YEAR.
...snow is just about gone too.I heard you received 13 inches the other day.Did it snow there as well?
LMFAO, thank God you guys are indoors most of the year to come up with this stuff! What original wit.
I use an Olympus Stylus 1030 SW. Yeah it's a point and shoot, but it has under water macro settings and I have figured out how to adjust everything I need too. Wasn't very expensive, around $400 I think. It's waterproof up to thirty feet (approximately 9metres for our neighbours to the north). Makes it simple to sterilize and take pictures of problematic patients at the bottom of the bay. It's also great for family vacations to the Theme parks.
Just one example of what can be done if you try hard enough.
JonB
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Not bad - not bad at all. It might can be rescued in photoshop to bring up the levels and fix the color shift and for display on the screen it probably will work fine. I'm curious how large you can print it without losing detail? I'd have a hard time thinking you could make an 8 x 10 out of it. If printing a 4x6 on a small printer at the technician bench is all you're doing, it should work out well. For the money - it will pass in a pinch - but I'd start saving my extra cash for a good camera as soon as possible. You don't want to try to build a service to your drs on a P&S.
One of the problems with P&S cameras is the sensor size. Sensors are about the most expensive part of a digital camera. The most expensive Nikon and Canon cameras have full 35mm sized sensors and are capable of reproducing wall sized prints with perfect clarity. A P&S has a sensor about 1/3 the size of a postage stamp and while they pack the megapixels into it - it just doesn't have the umph to make anything more than a 4x6. After all - that is the market P&S cameras are design and marketed to - the consumer who takes their camera to the beach or Disney World and wants a few snapshots to remember their experience. Nothing wrong with that - but its not a viable alternative if you ever wish to help a dentist client put together a before and after book, build a website or do powerpoint presentations on big screens in a large hall. ...you CAN - but your results will have certain limitations that your competition simply will not have.
One of the problems with P&S cameras is the sensor size. Sensors are about the most expensive part of a digital camera. The most expensive Nikon and Canon cameras have full 35mm sized sensors and are capable of reproducing wall sized prints with perfect clarity. A P&S has a sensor about 1/3 the size of a postage stamp and while they pack the megapixels into it - it just doesn't have the umph to make anything more than a 4x6. After all - that is the market P&S cameras are design and marketed to - the consumer who takes their camera to the beach or Disney World and wants a few snapshots to remember their experience. Nothing wrong with that - but its not a viable alternative if you ever wish to help a dentist client put together a before and after book, build a website or do powerpoint presentations on big screens in a large hall. ...you CAN - but your results will have certain limitations that your competition simply will not have.
Darren S
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No Photoshop, just alot of trial and error. Yes the larger the print, the lower the quality of said print. Face it we are making teeth. It's not rocket science, I just try not to over complicate things.
JonB
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If it works for you - go for it! I will say though that the image example you posted is a bit dark on my screen and when i click on it and it expands it starts pixelating really badly. That's why i figure an enlargement of any kind would be next to impossible.
I bring this up only because as a ceramist, i want to see what is in the natural tooth so i can mimic the internal characterizations. Often I will shoot a single central and fill the frame with it. Then I print it out at 8.5 x 11 on color paper to have right there at the bench while building. That sure makes it easier than trying to figure out what's in there while looking at one of the 4x6s some of my drs send me.
I shot this in 2004 with the 10D so its not a great shot - but its an example of what I'm talking about and what can be available with decent equipment. No - its not rocket science, its human replacement parts which to the patient is a whole lot more important than rocket ships!
I bring this up only because as a ceramist, i want to see what is in the natural tooth so i can mimic the internal characterizations. Often I will shoot a single central and fill the frame with it. Then I print it out at 8.5 x 11 on color paper to have right there at the bench while building. That sure makes it easier than trying to figure out what's in there while looking at one of the 4x6s some of my drs send me.
I shot this in 2004 with the 10D so its not a great shot - but its an example of what I'm talking about and what can be available with decent equipment. No - its not rocket science, its human replacement parts which to the patient is a whole lot more important than rocket ships!
JonB
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Hope you don't mind but the best example is a real world example...
Here is your image as posted - it is too dark, it suffers from a really bad color shift with unnatural skin tones and who knows what to the colors in the teeth. It is out of focus and has absolutely no depth of field. Holding shade tabs up next to the teeth is nearly a complete waste of time with an image with this many challenges.
While some things cannot be rescued by photoshop - at least you can see a few things with only a very few tweaks to the image.
I can go through the steps if you wish - if you think it will help. I wish to encourage you and help you find solutions that work so you don't have to work so hard to get a usable image.
Here is the first tip you will find useful - get some dental floss and tie it or glue it to your camera. Make sure its about 2 feet long at least. Then hold the camera in front of a patient and rock back and forth till you have an image that is in focus. Tie a knot in the dental floss where it touches the chin at the correct focus point. From then on - you have the minimum focus distance set for the P&S and as long as you stay fully extended from the knot at the chin - you will get images that are in focus.
Here is your image as posted - it is too dark, it suffers from a really bad color shift with unnatural skin tones and who knows what to the colors in the teeth. It is out of focus and has absolutely no depth of field. Holding shade tabs up next to the teeth is nearly a complete waste of time with an image with this many challenges.
While some things cannot be rescued by photoshop - at least you can see a few things with only a very few tweaks to the image.
I can go through the steps if you wish - if you think it will help. I wish to encourage you and help you find solutions that work so you don't have to work so hard to get a usable image.
Here is the first tip you will find useful - get some dental floss and tie it or glue it to your camera. Make sure its about 2 feet long at least. Then hold the camera in front of a patient and rock back and forth till you have an image that is in focus. Tie a knot in the dental floss where it touches the chin at the correct focus point. From then on - you have the minimum focus distance set for the P&S and as long as you stay fully extended from the knot at the chin - you will get images that are in focus.
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W
Werner Hamman
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Hello, I use a Canon G10! Realy cool point and shoot and powerful enough to pack a punch to most slr cameras! Its not that intimidating as these big bulky ones and if you realy need the big expensive flash systems, its ready to upgrade with hotshoe bracket! You can buy an extra lens that can be attached to the front but it give excellent results as is!
GoldRunner
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Hi Jon,
I have fairly good Tamron macro lens and extension body that I used with my Cannon AE1 for years with slide film. Will the extension tube fit on a modern digital slr camera? It is not autofocus, so some have mentioned that it might not be comparable with anything. Sorry for the basic question.
I have fairly good Tamron macro lens and extension body that I used with my Cannon AE1 for years with slide film. Will the extension tube fit on a modern digital slr camera? It is not autofocus, so some have mentioned that it might not be comparable with anything. Sorry for the basic question.
JonB
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I tend to think that losing autofocus and all auto features (Aperture and shutter) would preclude using older stuff on new digital cameras. It can be done but at the expense of a lot of trial and error. That sounds like work to me and I'm just not into that at all!
I do know some photographers who so love an older lens that they keep it and use it. But they don't use it as much or depend on it like they do their newer lenses. Optics are better for the most part now as well. If the lens will fit onto the camera mount - you may wish to put black electrical tape over the electrical connections as you don't want to short out the camera and make it totally manual with all of your lenses.
Another thing to be very aware about. DO NOT use old flash heads from your film cameras on your digital cameras!
The triggering voltage on a new digital is usually less than 10 volts maybe 6 or less. Older flash heads can trigger at up to 300 volts through the capacitors they used. You will fry your digital camera and we don't want that. I have an old ring flash for my Nikon F3 if anyone wants to burn up a digital camera if you don't believe me!
I do know some photographers who so love an older lens that they keep it and use it. But they don't use it as much or depend on it like they do their newer lenses. Optics are better for the most part now as well. If the lens will fit onto the camera mount - you may wish to put black electrical tape over the electrical connections as you don't want to short out the camera and make it totally manual with all of your lenses.
Another thing to be very aware about. DO NOT use old flash heads from your film cameras on your digital cameras!
The triggering voltage on a new digital is usually less than 10 volts maybe 6 or less. Older flash heads can trigger at up to 300 volts through the capacitors they used. You will fry your digital camera and we don't want that. I have an old ring flash for my Nikon F3 if anyone wants to burn up a digital camera if you don't believe me!
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