Need help with this case please

[haydar84]

image ru

Dear fellows I need your help with this case to match the two centrals with the rest of the teeth , I'm pressing emax and I think I'm going to use C3/D3 mix for shade but I don't have an idea how to make these cracks, could you please help me I really want the case to be perfect or near perfect, thanks.

 

[JMN]

one way of making cracks appear is to use a pure white modifier, drink a lot of coffee and try to draw a straightish line with a #000 brush in the dentin layer.

I'm sure there's better options, but that's what I know.

 

[Car 54]

My first concern is in getting the yellow core shade blocked out on the veneer. There is some of that hue in the shade, but it has the greater amount of lower value as your seeing. I would think to use at least a LT ingot.
Make sure you're using a colored die spacer (smart spacer, or True Prep) or stumph material to get the shade right, then just do some surface stain cracks and seal them with a glaze paste.

Miss the shade (yellow) and it won't matter how nice your cracks are, nail the shade, and maybe miss the cracks by a bit, and you'll still have a seat-able case.

 

[haydar84]

one way of making cracks appear is to use a pure white modifier, drink a lot of coffee and try to draw a straightish line with a #000 brush in the dentin layer.

I'm sure there's better options, but that's what I know.

Thanj you I thought of that too but won't they look flat?

My first concern is in getting the yellow core shade blocked out on the veneer. There is some of that hue in the shade, but it has the greater amount of lower value as your seeing. I would think to use at least a LT ingot.
Make sure you're using a colored die spacer (smart spacer, or True Prep) or stumph material to get the shade right, then just do some surface cracks and seal them with a glaze paste.

Miss the shade (yellow) and it won't matter how nice your cracks are, nail the shade, and maybe miss the cracks by a bit, and you'll still have a seat-able case.

Im planning an LT core , I may use a graysh coloring over the core before build up to cover the yellow shade of the prep , as you can see there is a some yellow with the gray in the original teeth especially cervically so may be the prep shade will blend nicely with the crown shade , at least I hope so

My first concern is in getting the yellow core shade blocked out on the veneer. There is some of that hue in the shade, but it has the greater amount of lower value as your seeing. I would think to use at least a LT ingot.
Make sure you're using a colored die spacer (smart spacer, or True Prep) or stumph material to get the shade right, then just do some surface stain cracks and seal them with a glaze paste.

Miss the shade (yellow) and it won't matter how nice your cracks are, nail the shade, and maybe miss the cracks by a bit, and you'll still have a seat-able case.

I want to know how to do surface cracks please , never tried it

 

[Car 54]

Use a glycerin/stain liquid if you're using a powder stain or thin out your paste stain. Your veneer surface should have a matte finish as after grinding and steaming clean or pumicing clean or lightly sandblasting.
You're just trying to get rid of the surface tension so the stain will stay flat and not bead up. From your satin mixing pallet, you can either pick up some stain from the edge of a thin blade (image below) or thin brush and run it from the Gingival to Incisal, that way you can brush the excess (usually from the starting point) down away from the Inc, instead of trying to get rid of any excess right at the Inc.

You can also use a thin brush with stain on it, and do the same thing. Whatever technique you use, you can then take a clean wet thin brush, and run it up or down the side of the stain, gradually getting rid of any unwanted thickness, also bending your line a bit, so it isn't exactly straight up and down. When you're satisfied, run a bake about 20 C degrees lower than your glaze bake, as you're just setting the stain. Don't try to do it all in one shot, it may take you 2 "bakes" to get it there. If you really wanted to get fancy, you could run just a bit of violet next to your set white crack, as it gives it a look of translucency.

Also, don't use a pure white stain, if needed mix it with a little vanilla, A1 or light orange stain, to warm the color up a bit, so it isn't stark white.

I've seen others here post some really nice work with cracks, they may have some better ideas then I suggested.

 

[haydar84]

Use a glycerin/stain liquid if you're using a powder stain or thin out your paste stain. Your veneer surface should have a matte finish as after grinding and steaming clean or pumicing clean or lightly sandblasting.
You're just trying to get rid of the surface tension so the stain will stay flat and not bead up. From your satin mixing pallet, you can either pick up some stain from the edge of a thin blade (image below) or thin brush and run it from the Gingival to Incisal, that way you can brush the excess (usually from the starting point) down away from the Inc, instead of trying to get rid of any excess right at the Inc.

You can also use a thin brush with stain on it, and do the same thing. Whatever technique you use, you can then take a clean wet thin brush, and run it up or down the side of the stain, gradually getting rid of any unwanted thickness, also bending your line a bit, so it isn't exactly straight up and down. When you're satisfied, run a bake about 20 C degrees lower than your glaze bake, as you're just setting the stain. Don't try to do it all in one shot, it may take you 2 "bakes" to get it there. If you really wanted to get fancy, you could run just a bit of violet next to your set white crack, as it gives it a look of translucency.

Also, don't use a pure white stain, if needed mix it with a little vanilla, A1 or light orange stain, to warm the color up a bit, so it isn't stark white.

I've seen others here post some really nice work with cracks, they may have some better ideas then I suggested.

Thanks a lot for the detailed explanation I really appreciate it and will try to do it.

 

[Car 54]

You're welcome. You'll just need to play around a bit, but you'll get it At least in this case you're working on a hard canvas (fired porc) compared to doing it wet, during a build up.