Milling bur recommendations? (For ROLAND)

WENDY INOUE

WENDY INOUE

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#1
Any recommendations for milling burs? (For Zirconia)
I currently use milling burs from IDS and WHIPMIX.
Both good but wanted to try something new.

Thanks!
 
Sevan P

Sevan P

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#2
Try Sierra Dental Tools, Nano Di they also have a new 1mm out but beware it might not be set up for the strategies. I love the Nano di 2.5 and 1mm on my VHF S1 got the going well over 150 hours. No chipping.
 
Sevan P

Sevan P

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#3
Zro2 also has some good tools and also look into toolmak.

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RCKSTR

RCKSTR

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#4
We are trying out Argens diamond zr burs. Price is reasonable and they say 500 units out of a set. We'll see.
 
Jenners

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#5
I also use the Nano-Di burs. They're good but I haven't tried any others to compare.
 
sidesh0wb0b

sidesh0wb0b

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#7
Any recommendations for milling burs? (For Zirconia)
I currently use milling burs from IDS and WHIPMIX.
Both good but wanted to try something new.

Thanks!
Wendy, i have tried 6 different brands. I am sold on using TD for my diamond and carbide tool needs. (i dont get paid to say this either). contact Ron, its worth it
 
RCKSTR

RCKSTR

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#8
I will second a vote for Ron. Great burs, we usually run em, argen wanted us to test drive their new tools.
 
WENDY INOUE

WENDY INOUE

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#9
I will second a vote for Ron. Great burs, we usually run em, argen wanted us to test drive their new tools.
Wendy, i have tried 6 different brands. I am sold on using TD for my diamond and carbide tool needs. (i dont get paid to say this either). contact Ron, its worth it
TD Dental Supply. I sent you a pm.
I also use the Nano-Di burs. They're good but I haven't tried any others to compare.
Zro2 also has some good tools and also look into toolmak.

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THANK YOU FOR ALL THE SUGGESTIONS! :)
 
rc75

rc75

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#11
All of our burs are made for us through a private manufacturer.
Diamonds are $50 & Carbide $21 for the Roland.
 
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We are trying out Argens diamond zr burs. Price is reasonable and they say 500 units out of a set. We'll see.
From what I hear from rep Argen’s diamonds are only being sold to customers who buy their mills. If anyone knows anything different please pm me.


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#14
All of our burs are made for us through a private manufacturer.
Diamonds are $50 & Carbide $21 for the Roland.
If anyone has any ideas about how to dial in the TD burrs on a Roland 51d please pm me, I’m all ears, still got a set that I haven’t tried more than once because they didn’t give a good result for me. Possibly because my milling strategies are setup by CAP for their burrs. If anyone knows the geometries and the way to enter them into my mill I’d appreciate it! Having said that and based on some research I have done there’s a lot to be said about using high quality “expensive” burrs From Sierra/Zahn/CAP. They put a lot of R&d into their stuff and for good reason. From what I’m told the $ 4-6 difference/unit is well worth it.


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tehnik

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#15
I am using Datron manufactured burs and getting 90h for 2mm bur and 200+h for 1mm bur. 0.6mm has lasted ages :D
 
rc75

rc75

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#16
If anyone has any ideas about how to dial in the TD burrs on a Roland 51d please pm me, I’m all ears, still got a set that I haven’t tried more than once because they didn’t give a good result for me. Possibly because my milling strategies are setup by CAP for their burrs. If anyone knows the geometries and the way to enter them into my mill I’d appreciate it! Having said that and based on some research I have done there’s a lot to be said about using high quality “expensive” burrs From Sierra/Zahn/CAP. They put a lot of R&d into their stuff and for good reason. From what I’m told the $ 4-6 difference/unit is well worth it.


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@sidesh0wb0b would you be so kind and chime in.
 
sidesh0wb0b

sidesh0wb0b

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#17
If anyone has any ideas about how to dial in the TD burrs on a Roland 51d please pm me, I’m all ears, still got a set that I haven’t tried more than once because they didn’t give a good result for me. Possibly because my milling strategies are setup by CAP for their burrs. If anyone knows the geometries and the way to enter them into my mill I’d appreciate it! Having said that and based on some research I have done there’s a lot to be said about using high quality “expensive” burrs From Sierra/Zahn/CAP. They put a lot of R&d into their stuff and for good reason. From what I’m told the $ 4-6 difference/unit is well worth it.


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i am using TD burs with CAP strategies in sum3d. no issues. actually better results than CAP tools. i was running through CAP tools at half their expected life. i can get well more than twice that out of TD tools with a better result.
 
RCKSTR

RCKSTR

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#18
From what I hear from rep Argen’s diamonds are only being sold to customers who buy their mills. If anyone knows anything different please pm me.


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They will sell to anyone. You can go on to argens website and order them if you have an account.
 
CoolHandLuke

CoolHandLuke

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#20
If anyone has any ideas about how to dial in the TD burrs on a Roland 51d please pm me, I’m all ears, still got a set that I haven’t tried more than once because they didn’t give a good result for me. Possibly because my milling strategies are setup by CAP for their burrs. If anyone knows the geometries and the way to enter them into my mill I’d appreciate it! Having said that and based on some research I have done there’s a lot to be said about using high quality “expensive” burrs From Sierra/Zahn/CAP. They put a lot of R&d into their stuff and for good reason. From what I’m told the $ 4-6 difference/unit is well worth it.


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if you are experiencing poor performance from your tools, there are several things to check. 1. tool runout. 2. deflection. 3. vibration. 4. mill overpower.

tool runout means the amount of physical deformity the tool holder has in the chuck. if its not held straight, it wont cut straight!

Deflection is how much the tool turns into banana shape during milling. it could be that the cap tools allow for more flex in the tool than Ron's tools do. though i make no claims to know how banana shaped Ron's tool is. i imagine slight curve to the left...

Vibration can harm your machine long term. if your mill is on a wooden table that seems to wobble when its milling, consider adding leg supports to stop that. you want it to stay as rigid as possible because the vibration is inertia that isn't being absorbed, just deflected. this inertia is likely caused by making the machine go too fast, perfect segue into Mill Overpower; each spindle can be shown to have a certain amount of power at 100RPM, and a different amount of power at 30 000 RPM.and for the most part a linear transition through the power, tapering off the higher you go. beyond a certain point (different for every spindle) the power required to get more rpm starts growing exponentially. this means the curve does have an upper limit, based on input power. no, in zirconia manufacturing this power curve doesnt really mean a lot, other than to say the power of the spindle if it is going too fast will be detrimental to your tools and your crowns. in hard material manufacturing (i.e. if you were using a mill to cut stainless steel crowns, or titanium abutments) this power curve observation is critical for longevity sake. you want to know the machine isn't stable when it draws all 20amps from the wall, and act accordingly. not only limiting the input draw, but the output power as well, because you don't want to calculate that the maximum cutting speed of a Kennametal tool might be 29k RPM, but if your tool holders are only rated for 20k, you'll instantly know you have to back off from maximum or the runout will kill your tools. hence, knowingly and purposefully underpowering your process to preserve the life of the machine.
 
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