Katana Zirconia

GhostFake

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Howdy everyone, so I have been a dental tech for about 12 years, and am quickly realizing that I don't know as much as I thought I did. The lab I work for has a large amount of zirconia flowing through it, and over the last few years we've had a lot of bridges fracture, and as the main digital guy I fear that a lot of the failures may be my fault. We were using Ceramill Zolid FX for several years before moving over to the Katana STML, and we are now moving into the Katana YML. So (and feel free to speak to me as a child) what are all of your minimum guidelines for doing zirconia? Minimum Thickness, Occlusal room, bridge span (pontics, anterior posterior),connector sizes, etc. I've been under the impression that we have had failures because we have not been playing by the rules as far as contraindications go, but I also think I missed a step going from what zirconia used to be to what it is now, as have our doctors who seem to check every contraindication box when prepping for zirconia. Any information and advice would be greatly appreciated!
 
Contraluz

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There are so many things to consider. Maybe someone else has the time to write it down... Scout the internet or YouTube, many companies have Manuals or guidelines available. Speaking of it, I always thought Ivoclar had very useful user manuals. This one has a lot of info:
 

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sirmorty

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Those are all pretty low MPA Zirconia. High trans. and look great but not very good for long span bridges unless you like doing things over.

Katana is 748mpa , Should be for 3 units at maximum.
Same with the Cermill Zolid FX. 3 units max.
 
AaronW12321

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We use Origin brand Zirc, which I think is closer to the 1100-1250mpa range, with a .33mm min thickness. I know katana has a strong ging base but is super weak incisally. I would aim for milling 6+ unit bridges in something stronger, as long as you think your designs aren't of concern.
We don't see breaks too often, and when we do it's almost always due to the constraints of the case. We don't use connectors, just manually add/smooth between pontic/abt teeth in the final step. It's worth stating that the size of the connection matters much more in the vertical direction than the horizontal direction. Tall connections are better than wide connections. Hope this helps a bit
 
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Howdy everyone, so I have been a dental tech for about 12 years, and am quickly realizing that I don't know as much as I thought I did. The lab I work for has a large amount of zirconia flowing through it, and over the last few years we've had a lot of bridges fracture, and as the main digital guy I fear that a lot of the failures may be my fault. We were using Ceramill Zolid FX for several years before moving over to the Katana STML, and we are now moving into the Katana YML. So (and feel free to speak to me as a child) what are all of your minimum guidelines for doing zirconia? Minimum Thickness, Occlusal room, bridge span (pontics, anterior posterior),connector sizes, etc. I've been under the impression that we have had failures because we have not been playing by the rules as far as contraindications go, but I also think I missed a step going from what zirconia used to be to what it is now, as have our doctors who seem to check every contraindication box when prepping for zirconia. Any information and advice would be greatly appreciated!
Solid for 3 unit bridges max. We use zolid GenX 1100MP for long span bridges. Anything less than 900MP the max is 3 unit bridges.
 
GhostFake

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There are so many things to consider. Maybe someone else has the time to write it down... Scout the internet or YouTube, many companies have Manuals or guidelines available. Speaking of it, I always thought Ivoclar had very useful user manuals. This one has a lot of info:
Awesome, thank you so much! I am going to check those out. We tried using the ZirCAD Prime but we were getting chips in the margins on every mill (new birs and everything) so we ended up sticking with Katana.
 
GhostFake

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Those are all pretty low MPA Zirconia. High trans. and look great but not very good for long span bridges unless you like doing things over.

Katana is 748mpa , Should be for 3 units at maximum.
Same with the Cermill Zolid FX. 3 units max.
Yeah we have been careful about not doing anything too large a span in STML, I should have mentioned that we do use HTML for large span bridges, but have even had some failures from those (our fault I'm sure)
 
GhostFake

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We use Origin brand Zirc, which I think is closer to the 1100-1250mpa range, with a .33mm min thickness. I know katana has a strong ging base but is super weak incisally. I would aim for milling 6+ unit bridges in something stronger, as long as you think your designs aren't of concern.
We don't see breaks too often, and when we do it's almost always due to the constraints of the case. We don't use connectors, just manually add/smooth between pontic/abt teeth in the final step. It's worth stating that the size of the connection matters much more in the vertical direction than the horizontal direction. Tall connections are better than wide connections. Hope this helps a bit
Well, I'm hoping my designs aren't the problem, but it's certainly possible. One of the common denominators in the breaks has been the doctors, as the majority of them have happened with certain docs, whereas others have not had any. But, the other common denominator is me
 
GhostFake

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Solid for 3 unit bridges max. We use zolid GenX 1100MP for long span bridges. Anything less than 900MP the max is 3 unit bridges.
How long of a span are you going with the Zolid GenX?
 
Contraluz

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Awesome, thank you so much! I am going to check those out. We tried using the ZirCAD Prime but we were getting chips in the margins on every mill (new birs and everything) so we ended up sticking with Katana.
While I like and use Multi MT and the new Prime Esthetic (rather expensive, tho),I am not too fond on the ZirCad Prime. I use Argen's HT+ Multilayer, which is, I think, 1100Mpa all the way through and quite good looking. I have not used Katana in years. Maybe someone with more knowledge on the milling side can give you tips on how to prevent chipping.

As for your initial question, handle Zr like you would handle a raw egg, while working with it. Don't overheat it, while retouching it, and use low speed. Use water cooling if using a high speed hand piece and use adequate diamond burs too.
When firing it, do everything slow... like 40 degrees delicious per minute and always slow cool it!!!
Tell your clients to be gentle when adjusting it! The can't just grind on it, like they would on a gold crown!

Anyway, just some bullet pints to consider.
 
JKraver

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We use Origin brand Zirc, which I think is closer to the 1100-1250mpa range, with a .33mm min thickness. I know katana has a strong ging base but is super weak incisally. I would aim for milling 6+ unit bridges in something stronger, as long as you think your designs aren't of concern.
We don't see breaks too often, and when we do it's almost always due to the constraints of the case. We don't use connectors, just manually add/smooth between pontic/abt teeth in the final step. It's worth stating that the size of the connection matters much more in the vertical direction than the horizontal direction. Tall connections are better than wide connections. Hope this helps a bit
How do you like origin? I have been thinking about using them as my zirconia supplier.
 

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