Katana STML/UTML shading issues

SmartLabJon

SmartLabJon

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Hey all, I wanted to pick your collective brains!

My ceramists are complaining (and have for a while) about hitting shades with anterior zirconia. We are currently using Katana STML and some UTML. We have used Bruxzir Anterior in the past and they have had the same complaints. The complaints are all over the place like too orange, too dark, too grey, too white, you name it. I am waiting for a response back from Zahn but I wanted to see if any of you have issues with it. Is it a stain and glaze technique problem or is there something different I can do during design/nesting/milling to help them out? I've also had CMC mill some and it makes no difference they still complain. I don't do ceramics so I am trying to help them the best I can. We use a Wieland Select Hybrid (but dry mill only) and we have 2 Sintra Plus furnaces if that helps.

Thanks!
 
sidesh0wb0b

sidesh0wb0b

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Hey all, I wanted to pick your collective brains!

My ceramists are complaining (and have for a while) about hitting shades with anterior zirconia. We are currently using Katana STML and some UTML. We have used Bruxzir Anterior in the past and they have had the same complaints. The complaints are all over the place like too orange, too dark, too grey, too white, you name it. I am waiting for a response back from Zahn but I wanted to see if any of you have issues with it. Is it a stain and glaze technique problem or is there something different I can do during design/nesting/milling to help them out? I've also had CMC mill some and it makes no difference they still complain. I don't do ceramics so I am trying to help them the best I can. We use a Wieland Select Hybrid (but dry mill only) and we have 2 Sintra Plus furnaces if that helps.

Thanks!
are these pucks white or precolored? (pardon my ignorance, i dont use katana)
 
SmartLabJon

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No worries, they are preshaded Zirconia, and we stock all 16 vita shades, usually in 2 thicknesses.
 
sidesh0wb0b

sidesh0wb0b

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No worries, they are preshaded Zirconia, and we stock all 16 vita shades, usually in 2 thicknesses.
hmmm, thats a tricky one. might be one sintering oven vs the other? calibrate needed maybe? track what comes from what, see if its all cases or some
 
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sirmorty

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I could never get Noritake UTML or Smtl to look right with my sintering oven. I did the same as you and had another place sinter them in a different furnace and it looked better but still not as advertised.

I had to give up on it. I got a few pucks just sitting around if I ever want to try again.

It's hard to satisfy the porcelain tech. Especially if they are used to layering porcelain.
 
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I only use the STML, and I love it. You must use the long sinter program for it to look good, and even with the same temps, it looks different in my different ovens. Placement in the puck matters. I like the NW for 3D bleach, but if they ask for Ivoclar BL shades, Ill switch to Lava Esthetic.
 
DentalTechTips

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I've always found the UTML (especially the enamel shades) to come out a bit more grey. STML shades typically come out just a bit darker than what I like, so we've resorted to choosing a shade lighter or going with the incisal portion of a shade.

For example: if the shade is A3, we will mill it in an A2 blank.
 
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Make sure youre getting up to 1550 and holding 2 hours. In smaller less efficient ovens, add some hold time at 1000.

Im not an electrician, but a dedicated circuit is all we're plugged into.
 
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grantoz

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enough time and right temp makes all the difference on all the super trans zi 's prettau talladium katana all of them.
 
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I've always found the UTML (especially the enamel shades) to come out a bit more grey. STML shades typically come out just a bit darker than what I like, so we've resorted to choosing a shade lighter or going with the incisal portion of a shade.

For example: if the shade is A3, we will mill it in an A2 blank.

Yup we do the same with the shade choice ...still abit grey trying armann griibach and e.max zircad as possible replacemnet
 
Andrew Priddy

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Some of our ceramists struggle with the shades.. but this is also over ti abutments, or thicker restorations...

I’ve seen some pretty excessive differences between shades ont the same puck, but it’s still a nice product if you are decent at stain/glaze
 
SiKBOY

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I've always found the UTML (especially the enamel shades) to come out a bit more grey. STML shades typically come out just a bit darker than what I like, so we've resorted to choosing a shade lighter or going with the incisal portion of a shade.

For example: if the shade is A3, we will mill it in an A2 blank.

I have found the same with stml shades. I always go one shade lighter for anteriors
 
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skim

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I have started using Katana STML and so far liking the results except for shades A1 and B1. Comes out way too dark. I am using e.max ZirCad for A1 and B1. Much nicer! Incisal translucence is really nice on the Zircad. Boo to Lava Esthetic. Hor-ri-ble.
 
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FASTFNGR

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I've always found the UTML (especially the enamel shades) to come out a bit more grey. STML shades typically come out just a bit darker than what I like, so we've resorted to choosing a shade lighter or going with the incisal portion of a shade.

For example: if the shade is A3, we will mill it in an A2 blank.
There is always a room to play with zirconia temp, about 10 to 25*c. If preshaded comes out too dark start by raising the temp by 5to10*c at a time, also it gets more translucent and the opposite applies too. To calibrate a furnace there are rings that you measure before centering and after and compare to a chart to see if your furnace is under firing or over.
 
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