interproximal tearing using vita vm13

CatamountRob

CatamountRob

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no it's off the grid.
To paraphrase Robert Plant , I'm gonna bring it on home, watch out watch out...
Zero built a power plant for his Mexican hideout using nothing more than an old Nordic track, 3 goats and an alternator from a ‘63 Buick, maybe you should get him to visit? Probably should get sum real beer before he gets there tho.
 
rkm rdt

rkm rdt

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Zero built a power plant for his Mexican hideout using nothing more than an old Nordic track, 3 goats and an alternator from a ‘63 Buick, maybe you should get him to visit? Probably should get sum real beer before he gets there tho.
at my age you only rent beer.
 
Contraluz

Contraluz

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This is where I was at with my move back to the lower level of my house at 9:00am on Saturday morning, then where I was at at 9:00am on Tuesday morning.
Thank goodness for the long Memorial weekend, as I was able to get a lot set up and get some of the work out this week that needed to be done.
After I get some the final things hooked up, drawers sorted out and pictures on the wall this weekend, then I'll take that deep breath and sigh of relief :)

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Congratulations! For a one man lab, it looks quite spacious!
 
Car 54

Car 54

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Congratulations! For a one man lab, it looks quite spacious!

Thanks :) A lot more elbow room to move around compared to the other lab which was narrower and smaller, which was the other part of the problem in why the lab heated up so quickly.
 
Sda36

Sda36

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To be totally honest I stopped using VM 13 years ago because at the time I did a lot of bridges and 13 does tear more than some porcelains. Master might tear less and can't remember now. VM13 a nice porcelain but its Vita and you must fire on the wet side. If you want your tearing problems to be MUCH less stressful switch to Shofu, it tears much less and easy to do add-ons. GC is another beautiful porcelain and also tears a little less than 13. Noritake EX- 3 is an easy porcelain to use but needs multi powder to get the more lifelike results like GC or Shofu porcelains.
For PFM's always used Tanaka's One Bake Technique which always condensed inter- proximal porcelain so that it would fire more densely 1st and then main mass fusing around that. You could also add a touch of glaze powder to inter-proximal mix to ensure firing 1st. All part of the "One Bake Technique"

For those who are somewhat reluctant to even want to try condensing, Gerald Ubassy has an Excellent workflow for multi-unit build ups that is also top notch. In his book " Shape and Color" Also covers this with is amazing "Tips and Tricks" Volume. Definitely check them out, less grey hairs and even though working with Zr nowadays as opposed to PFM, with ceramic principles and behaviors everything remains the same. What!!! Now I'm quoting Led Zep, No Surprise!!!🙂
 
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