I got a thing

JayH

JayH

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No, the 5100 needs to be connected to the internet. How would you connect it to a computer?
 
CoolHandLuke

CoolHandLuke

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it needs to be connected to a LAN, not a computer, although you can make it work to a computer.

on board the computer creates a "virtual" bottle, and subtracts volume from the bottle every time you print, and forces you to scan the bottle each time as a security measure that you arent using 3rd party resin and not buying nextdent products and cheating the system.

the default print parameters may work but its 50um layers.

i've been having a consistent top layer adhesion issue. i.e prints don't always stick to the build tray. i think it may be a bad bottle of material. gonna switch materials monday and hope i get something better.
 
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Farrah Fawcett

Farrah Fawcett

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No, the 5100 needs to be connected to the internet. How would you connect it to a computer?
One options is crossover cable.
Another is virtual network.
or this..
 
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sidesh0wb0b

sidesh0wb0b

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it needs to be connected to a LAN, not a computer, although you can make it work to a computer.

on board the computer creates a "virtual" bottle, and subtracts volume from the bottle every time you print, and forces you to scan the bottle each time as a security measure that you arent using 3rd party resin and not buying nextdent products and cheating the system.

the default print parameters may work but its 50um layers.

i've been having a consistent top layer adhesion issue. i.e prints don't always stick to the build tray. i think it may be a bad bottle of material. gonna switch materials monday and hope i get something better.
will you be running some prints today?
 
CoolHandLuke

CoolHandLuke

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yes, in about an hour i'll start it up, im going to switch from try-in material to Tray material.
 
CoolHandLuke

CoolHandLuke

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these recent prints failed as well. i'm stumped. materials are well mixed. build plate is properly cleaned with alcohol like it said. i've done it all by the book. used standard settings, kept within the lines. you know me i'd love to colour outside the lines but i haven't.

layers adhere to themselves just fine but not to the build tray. supports fall right off.
 
CoolHandLuke

CoolHandLuke

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i'm waiting on news from support, it wouldn't be right to post pics until then.
 
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Farrah Fawcett

Farrah Fawcett

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Build Z position too high and/or build-plate too shiny.

You need the build-plate to almost touch the bottom. It is dangerous to calibrate that position.
Easy to crash.
 
sidesh0wb0b

sidesh0wb0b

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these recent prints failed as well. i'm stumped. materials are well mixed. build plate is properly cleaned with alcohol like it said. i've done it all by the book. used standard settings, kept within the lines. you know me i'd love to colour outside the lines but i haven't.

layers adhere to themselves just fine but not to the build tray. supports fall right off.
this aint a good selling point for the 5100. ive yet to see/hear of anyone having success with it :\
 
CoolHandLuke

CoolHandLuke

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i had been worried the build plate had some residual industrial lubricant leftover from the stamping process but i cleaned the hell out of it. should i abrade the surface with something? is there a setting in the 3dsprint to refocus the first curing layer?
 
CoolHandLuke

CoolHandLuke

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this aint a good selling point for the 5100. ive yet to see/hear of anyone having success with it :\
thats why i want to hold off passing judgement until i'm on the straight and narrow here. all i can do is articulate my situation in hopes i might have screwed up.

i hope the problem is me, i hope it is not a bad unit.

the new touch pad works a dream, though.
 
sidesh0wb0b

sidesh0wb0b

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thats why i want to hold off passing judgement until i'm on the straight and narrow here. all i can do is articulate my situation in hopes i might have screwed up.

i hope the problem is me, i hope it is not a bad unit.

the new touch pad works a dream, though.
not trying to be a negative nellie about it. im in the market for a printer so im watching carefully to see how it works out for you (and others)
 
Farrah Fawcett

Farrah Fawcett

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All these printers are same basic thing.

First layer is so important.

The space between the build-plate and the bottom resin tank plate is most important. Need this as close as possible without damaging the bottom resin plate surface.

Maybe this has a separate parameter section for first layer? The curing time, and the lift speed, and the pause (dwell) speed?

Each time you install build plate, or change bottom resin tank you risk changing this build Z start position offset of plate-to-plate distance.

That will never change and you need to be taught how to measure and adjust. You will do this 10000x during ownership of this type of printer for best success.
 
sidesh0wb0b

sidesh0wb0b

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with my old PJ1200 i roughed up the build plate just a bit with the scrub side of a sink sponge. just remembered that. dont know if its worth noting or not
 
CoolHandLuke

CoolHandLuke

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Staff member
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All these printers are same basic thing.

First layer is so important.

The space between the build-plate and the bottom resin tank plate is most important. Need this as close as possible without damaging the bottom resin plate surface.

Maybe this has a separate parameter section for first layer? The curing time, and the lift speed, and the pause (dwell) speed?

Each time you install build plate, or change bottom resin tank you risk changing this build Z start position offset of plate-to-plate distance.

That will never change and you need to be taught how to measure and adjust. You will do this 10000x during ownership of this type of printer for best success.
well, i'd love to say it was a miscalibrated Z but i don't think so.

in the 3dsprint software the base layer cure depth is adjustable - heres the thing though, with Try-in material i was told to add 10um to the cure depth (150um -> 160um) but it worked one time. not the next time.

when i switched to Tray material the cure depth self-adjusted (according to Tray material preferences) to 200um and the project failed.

so i'm not sure the cure depth really made any difference. anyway I can't play again with it until next week so...
 
Farrah Fawcett

Farrah Fawcett

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So, what did you use to measure?

You are not understanding what I am saying.

Printer thinks it is 200um, but in reality is it??

I am saying probably that space is too large. Beyond .2mm gap.

You need feeler-gauge strips to measure and calibrate the machine to it's software.

Unless this machine has some auto-calibrate thing going on, where machine lowers the Z until it actually build plate touches the bottom plate, and zeros that position each print?

Z-home switch is fully top position? or non-existent?
 
CoolHandLuke

CoolHandLuke

40% titanium
Staff member
Full Member
So, what did you use to measure?

You are not understanding what I am saying.

Printer thinks it is 200um, but in reality is it??

I am saying probably that space is too large. Beyond .2mm gap.

You need feeler-gauge strips to measure and calibrate the machine to it's software.

Unless this machine has some auto-calibrate thing going on, where machine lowers the Z until it actually build plate touches the bottom plate, and zeros that position each print?

Z-home switch is fully top position? or non-existent?
theres no opportunity to place a feeler gauge to calibrate the home position in either the software used for nesting, or the onboard software. even if there was, getting a gauge in there without piercing the plastic of the build tray would be next to impossible.

i thought you said you had one of these? or are you just Scott come back to poke us ?
 
rkm rdt

rkm rdt

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theres no opportunity to place a feeler gauge to calibrate the home position in either the software used for nesting, or the onboard software. even if there was, getting a gauge in there without piercing the plastic of the build tray would be next to impossible.

i thought you said you had one of these? or are you just Scott come back to poke us ?
ya, i picked up on that too.
 
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