No, the 5100 needs to be connected to the internet. How would you connect it to a computer?
will you be running some prints today?it needs to be connected to a LAN, not a computer, although you can make it work to a computer.
on board the computer creates a "virtual" bottle, and subtracts volume from the bottle every time you print, and forces you to scan the bottle each time as a security measure that you arent using 3rd party resin and not buying nextdent products and cheating the system.
the default print parameters may work but its 50um layers.
i've been having a consistent top layer adhesion issue. i.e prints don't always stick to the build tray. i think it may be a bad bottle of material. gonna switch materials monday and hope i get something better.
this aint a good selling point for the 5100. ive yet to see/hear of anyone having success with it :\these recent prints failed as well. i'm stumped. materials are well mixed. build plate is properly cleaned with alcohol like it said. i've done it all by the book. used standard settings, kept within the lines. you know me i'd love to colour outside the lines but i haven't.
layers adhere to themselves just fine but not to the build tray. supports fall right off.
thats why i want to hold off passing judgement until i'm on the straight and narrow here. all i can do is articulate my situation in hopes i might have screwed up.this aint a good selling point for the 5100. ive yet to see/hear of anyone having success with it :\
not trying to be a negative nellie about it. im in the market for a printer so im watching carefully to see how it works out for you (and others)thats why i want to hold off passing judgement until i'm on the straight and narrow here. all i can do is articulate my situation in hopes i might have screwed up.
i hope the problem is me, i hope it is not a bad unit.
the new touch pad works a dream, though.
well, i'd love to say it was a miscalibrated Z but i don't think so.All these printers are same basic thing.
First layer is so important.
The space between the build-plate and the bottom resin tank plate is most important. Need this as close as possible without damaging the bottom resin plate surface.
Maybe this has a separate parameter section for first layer? The curing time, and the lift speed, and the pause (dwell) speed?
Each time you install build plate, or change bottom resin tank you risk changing this build Z start position offset of plate-to-plate distance.
That will never change and you need to be taught how to measure and adjust. You will do this 10000x during ownership of this type of printer for best success.
theres no opportunity to place a feeler gauge to calibrate the home position in either the software used for nesting, or the onboard software. even if there was, getting a gauge in there without piercing the plastic of the build tray would be next to impossible.So, what did you use to measure?
You are not understanding what I am saying.
Printer thinks it is 200um, but in reality is it??
I am saying probably that space is too large. Beyond .2mm gap.
You need feeler-gauge strips to measure and calibrate the machine to it's software.
Unless this machine has some auto-calibrate thing going on, where machine lowers the Z until it actually build plate touches the bottom plate, and zeros that position each print?
Z-home switch is fully top position? or non-existent?
ya, i picked up on that too.theres no opportunity to place a feeler gauge to calibrate the home position in either the software used for nesting, or the onboard software. even if there was, getting a gauge in there without piercing the plastic of the build tray would be next to impossible.
i thought you said you had one of these? or are you just Scott come back to poke us ?