help needed to solder

amadent

amadent

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I am a ceramist and need to learn how to solder both NP and noble metal. Normally I would just laser weld, but my unit is DOWN. Any help, especially on how to adjust the torch, would be greatly appreciated.:confused:
 
dmonwaxa

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Pre solder or post solder? before or after porcelain application.
 
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dmonwaxa

dmonwaxa

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solder

not thinking PRE-SOLDER

since your question is vague i'll answer it like this, if its a bridge and it is distorted/warped; section it, then rubber wheel the contacts. Put back on the model/solid, to where its seated completely, then use resin such as gc pattern, duralay or even sticky wax to reattach. Let set completely then compare it on the sectioned model for accuracy. When satisfied, invest in a high heat soldering investment covering margins but leaving the area to be soldered exposed and let set completely. Use an antiflux to contain the solder, apply it to the area on an area outside of where joint is to be.(Rouge and monomer dipped brush; or graphite pencil works well) Place in burnout oven to dry or carefully and gradually heat up the investment then introduce heat to the framework until cherry red. Add pre-solder and allow it to flow into the area.Use a brushing motion over the area to not melt the framework. Allow to bench cool completely.

NOTE: "DO NOT USE FLUX", not good for porcelain.
If this sounds like a hassle, it is . I would just rewax in this case. Good Luck
 
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amadent

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how would I adjust my torch for noble or np?
 
dmonwaxa

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Small cone, but wide enough to heat both sections at the same time. You are not trying to melt the FMK here, just heat it red hot and remain solid in the area to be soldered.The with of the cut section no wider than the thickness of a business card. Hot enough enough to melt the solder, but not enough to melt framework. Practice on a piece of solder, when hit with heat it should "gradually" heat up and melt forming a ball.
 
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charles007

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On Noble...use a very low setting... not a loud hiss !can't remember the lbs etc....... Use a soldering tip !! and brush, brush, brush like said above........don't hold torch on the solder until its just before flowing. It will flow fast. As you are brushing the flame across the case, and as it gets hotter, you can narrow the width of your brush flame to get the joint area hot. But before you do that, you must heat up slowing the invested patty . Directing the torch just on the joint will create failure for sure. Failure comes from not heating the complete investment-and metal at the same time.
Very important !! make a small invested patty and open up a ditch for the flame to flow into. During the last stages on the investment setting up, and or after the investment sets up. If you don't open up enough, the heat will not enter and you will end up burning up your metal and checking your porcelain.

After you solder, your joint should be very dense , without pits and bubbles. If you see that, you probably used to much heat.......

Actually soldering is very easy. IF YOUR NOT IN A HURRY!!!! whether it be pre or post soldering.

Soldering NP.......I gave up 20 years ago after seeing paste joints........I bet the solders are better now.......But who cares, I would just rewax with NP
 
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Do post soldering in your porcelain oven. Use same technique as above for taking index and burning off resin, then let bench cool. You can use a special flux,designed for post soldering. it used to be made by Degussa called Flubermittl I think. Set oven temp. maybe 100 to 200 degrees above solder melt, we used to use vacuum.
Lay solder in joint and pray.
 
dmonwaxa

dmonwaxa

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If you chose to post solder, cover all ceramic areas with ivory wax or at a mininunm light pink baseplate(denture) wax. after investment set s you can steam off all wax. Other colored wax may leave a resdiue and discolor porcelain. And thats a "B" Also when post soldering, best to keep the investment matrix as small as possilbe, but strong enough; so it does not soak up too much heat.
 
amadent

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thanks alot .I will be giving it a try (No I will solder tomorrow). Had to go to an account's office to see two patients. That is why it took me so long to get back to you.
I really appreciate all the time you gave me.
 
dmonwaxa

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You're very welcome. hope it helps. Pm me if you have further questions.
 
sixonice

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one other important "nugget" that I didnt see on other posts is to make sure very sure that you cut what your are soldering AS THIN AS POSSIBLE - no thicker than a business card.
 
amadent

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Thanks guys- ive been in the field for 40 years and today i did my 1st solder connection

and it fit
 
dmonwaxa

dmonwaxa

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Glad to hear it was a success. Great Job solder rookie.:D
 
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