Gingifast not setting?

SmileRX

SmileRX

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Has anybody else ever has a problem with Gingifast not fully setting? I thought it was just a batch problem, but I've had this problem off and on with different batches. It'll set fully on the exposed areas, but will never fully set on the side in contact with the impression. What am I doing wrong?

Thanks
 
Brett Hansen CDT

Brett Hansen CDT

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We had the same issue. We paint a thin layer of vasoline where the soft tissue will touch the impression material.
 
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erykd1

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Found this happening with a few different big brands but TD Dental's gingiva has been the most consistent for us, as far as always setting up on all surfaces.
 
Patrick Coon

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Petroleum Jelly (Vaseline) is likely the issue. Silicone (PVS) does not really like petroleum jelly. You can usually get away with a very, very thin coat, but if if you get it even just a little thicker it will have issues with setting in that area. I would suggest using either a dry silicone spray or a little glycerin gel instead of petroleum jelly.
 
Car 54

Car 54

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It's a reaction with the impression material, causing it not to set.

Are you using their liquid? Zhermack has a separator liquid just for this purpose.

Ron @rc75 of TD Dental Supply has some nice smaller mixing tips for less waste.

20201023_122313.jpg
 
Jenners

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I've had that problem periodically. Running the tissue under hot water usually helps set it up and washes away the thin sticky coating.
 
Car 54

Car 54

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I used a soft tissue in the past that had a hard time in setting up (smear layer) on polyether, but did fine against PVS.
 
JMN

JMN

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My guess is that the material is possibly still off-gassing. Supposedly it takes 12-34 hours sto stop offgassing.
i always used iso-lit as a sep agent for every soft tissue moulage. Works gret on analogs too.
 
Sda36

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My guess is that the material is possibly still off-gassing. Supposedly it takes 12-34 hours sto stop offgassing.
i always used iso-lit as a sep agent for every soft tissue moulage. Works gret on analogs too.
Exactly what JMN said. Use the provided barrier liquid in your kit and you'll be great!
 
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LarryRDC

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I give the impression a shot a with S100 around the transfer post/analog ( which is basically a silicone/polymer spray) and never have any problems with Gingivast curing..
You can get from motorcycle shop or even amazon and it works great! Give it a quick shot , inject your Gingivast, pour the model and you're good to go! Also make sure the holes in the cartridge are clear and not plugged with cured material before attaching the mixing tip, so you get an even mix the white accelerator and pink material.
B5390484-F9A1-4D79-8173-22D9181B57F1.jpeg
 
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rlhhds

rlhhds

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Got lazy and stopped using separator of any kind. The gingivast separates quiet nicely without it. Might stick a little on a rare occasion but still separates in one piece.
 
Sda36

Sda36

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Got lazy and stopped using separator of any kind. The gingivast separates quiet nicely without it. Might stick a little on a rare occasion but still separates in one piece.
Makes sense, PVS out gasses H for about 20-24 hours I think. Maybe if poured to soon with gingifast, more likely to have a chemical response to the PVS and problems. We use the PVS separator supplied regardless of time. Sucks when reaction is is inhibited for any reason.
 
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