GC Optiglaze on denture

[BLUE]

Hello,
Can anyone tell me the result of Gc Optiglaze on the dentures?
Does it really last long time? some people said that it will be come off within couple of days or something.
If anyone used it before on the dentures please let me know.
Also is it work if i layer it after the polish? or is it better to use it after sandblast the denture?

Thank you

 

[2thm8kr]

Since no one with more experience is chiming in I'll give you my thoughts.
I use Optiglaze on long term C&B temps and temp dentures for implant cases.
As long as you cover the stains with a light cured glaze they should be durable. I don't polish my temps I use Dreve nano glaze instead. I have a few temps that have been in the mouth for over a year for various reasons and the Optiglaze stains are still there.

I sand blast the surfaces before applying the stains because if not the stains bead up like water on a freshly waxed car. Use the light cured glaze to seal the surface.

 

[TomZ]

Air abrade, add, cure, seal will clear Optiglaze. Don't over-cure in time duration.

 

[nvarras]

Has anyone cured the optiglaze using the Ivoclar light curing unit? (the Lumamat). Will it work and how long would I need to cure it for?

 

[bigj1972]

I have used PalaSeal on acrylics over the past year, and recently have had a couple come back with stains that are darker in these areas. I also have used OptiGlaze clear, but not enough to see return results. It was my intention to use these products as a sealer, gingival stain barrier. Patients still have to clean their removable, but if it actually stains worse when the top sheen is abraded, it is self defeating. These formulas seem similar, but maybe Mr. Tom Z could respond as I would take his experience as Gospel.

 

[TomZ]

Care should be given to amount of exposure time you subject Optiglaze to. Over exposure will cause product to brown over a period of time. I can recommend the SunUV w/dual optical wavelength (365nm+405nm) L.E.D., it doesn't over heat the acrylic, or overexpose the Optiglaze. I put a small mirror on the bottom of mine for greater reflection and can cure Optiglaze in about a minute. It also cures light cure baseplate materials and UV gels. At 45.99 its a great deal.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XK7Z8V...&pd_rd_r=a89153d4-1844-11e9-b8f7-cf1c3387e484

 

[Chad Gardner]

I saw a video once on “burn in” or something like that when curing resin sealers and can’t find it anywhere. Does anyone know where to find it or more information on how to properly cure sealers like Optiglaze?

 

[jVerroche]

Optiglaze and gradia plus are both great options for denture characterization. Using primer with gradiaplus is essential. But the most essential for both is light exposure. If your serious about using light cure composit invest in a labolight duo. Do not attempt to use an Amazon bought led curing light. Those are for nail salons..

 

[TomZ]

Actually the SunUV light I use is perfectly appropriate for Optiglaze, GC opaque, and Lustre Paints.
Gradia and Gradia Plus indeed should be cured in a Labolight duo or the old Labolight.
Composites and Optiglaze are 2 different products.

 

[jVerroche]

Actually the SunUV light I use is perfectly appropriate for Optiglaze, GC opaque, and Lustre Paints.
Gradia and Gradia Plus indeed should be cured in a Labolight duo or the old Labolight.
Composites and Optiglaze are 2 different products.

I agree that this specific unit may work for optiglaze. However to many times i have heard people buying the cheapest equipment they can find and then being disappointed in the outcome.

 

[Car 54]

Actually the SunUV light I use is perfectly appropriate for Optiglaze, GC opaque, and Lustre Paints.
Gradia and Gradia Plus indeed should be cured in a Labolight duo or the old Labolight.
Composites and Optiglaze are 2 different products.

Thanks for the link to the curing unit. I've been looking for a new light to use in place of my 15+ year old Heliolux GT, for curing Optiglaze on my PMMA.

 

[bigj1972]

Its about the science. All UV activators respond to a specific wavelength of light. Then it becomes about intensity and exposure time. That's why you can take it outside in the sun for a full spectrum blast. So determine the wavelength and start from there. No matter the name brand.

Greasers will still be Greasers, Socs will still be Socs, and Cheap-asses will still be Cheap-asses

 

[Chad Gardner]

Its about the science. All UV activators respond to a specific wavelength of light. Then it becomes about intensity and exposure time. That's why you can take it outside in the sun for a full spectrum blast. So determine the wavelength and start from there. No matter the name brand.

Greasers will still be Greasers, Socs will still be Socs, and Cheap-asses will still be Cheap-asses

What I was referring to was the glaze turning brownish when cured too fast with too much power.
I’m doing a webinar on 3D printed veneers & temps and remember some other sealers that would turn brownish when hit with too much light intensity too fast, and the video explained everything perfectly but I can’t find it anywhere. I have a VALO clinical curing light and it’ll “burn” even Optiglaze if set on the super hi intensity cure.
I really wanted to show why I use Optiglaze, bc it wasn’t so finicky like most other sealers and to steal the guys info to sound smarter

 

[bigj1972]

What I was referring to was the glaze turning brownish when cured too fast with too much power.
I’m doing a webinar on 3D printed veneers & temps and remember some other sealers that would turn brownish when hit with too much light intensity too fast, and the video explained everything perfectly but I can’t find it anywhere. I have a VALO clinical curing light and it’ll “burn” even Optiglaze if set on the super hi intensity cure.
I really wanted to show why I use Optiglaze, bc it wasn’t so finicky like most other sealers and to steal the guys info to sound smarter

TomZ is the resident expert on Optiglaze. Maybe you saw one of his YT vids.

 

[TomZ]

Over duration and intensity both "burn" the product. The Labolight Duo provides a 20 second cure under the VLC stage which is basically a projector type bulb.

 

[jeppe]

I have tried at least palaseal but did not get a good enough bond to PMMA. I figured, better to just do the PMMA wax job and polishing well, and I can do without sealing products...

But I would be very happy to learn something new. So if someone can tell/show me the benefits of these sealing products over a good PMMA polishing, please tell me.

 

[jVerroche]

I have tried at least palaseal but did not get a good enough bond to PMMA. I figured, better to just do the PMMA wax job and polishing well, and I can do without sealing products...

But I would be very happy to learn something new. So if someone can tell/show me the benefits of these sealing products over a good PMMA polishing, please tell me.

I would rather polish my pmma than glaze it. It’s why I chose to use the composit gradia plus and polish the whole case up well without having to glaze. I’m talking more in full arch prosthesis.
The bond is the culprit to a successful or failed glaze or composit. I have found all the GC primers and bonders (metal primer, acrylic primer) even the air barrier seems to work the best. IMO

 

[JKraver]

It works very well to custom shade an acrylic tooth, I do that the most. I use it on the underside of hybrids to give it that super glossy non plaque trap surface. It does not work as a replacement to a good pumice/ diamond paste polish in my opinion. It works great on temps.

 

[Chad Gardner]

I have found acetone or butanone based sealers are doing the best as a sealer. Taub’s Stellar Glaze is looking great so far.
Then I coat with Optiglaze for the nano technology.
The acetone or acetone derivative like butanone should dissolve the outer layer of the prints and create a new bonding layer from what I can gather.
Just trying to make 3D printed dentures, veneers etc to be stain resistant longer.
I can polish like crazy but they still stain w/o a sealer. And I believe glass bead blasting with 50 micron beads is better than AlOx. About 40psi.
Thoughts?