Formula 1 + Emax press issue

DMC

DMC

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yup, clear porc. is a great test. It should hold it's shape, but yet be clear. Build a cone shape on something.

Too opaque=too cold.

Too shiny and round (slumping) = too hot

I don't know if you have this option in all pressing ovens. Certianly not a burnout oven, it has no vac. Sintering oven, fugetabout it.
 
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charles007

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this old clear test tip is to know the correct temp to fire your porcelain, not to calibrate your furnace. Most furnaces will fire slightly different..... This is not meant to help with pressing!
 
finnster68

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Well after going through 1/2 a box of the Formula 1 and trying everything suggested here, I have returned back to IPS PressVest.

The reaction layered never really changed from my initial photo i posted up top of this topic, no matter what i tried.

First pressings back with PressVest and they were all clean as a whistle.

Turned out to be a little expensive excersize, but at least i have tried around 6 different investments and it seems its the PressVest that works the best for me.

Thanks for all the input guys :)
 
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Scooter

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I have to jump in here with Charles I do the same with the exception once I get a clear firing I start backing up to figure my 2nd and third bakes at 7' per stage. So once clear Id fire again an add-on, on the tab at 14' lower and look for clarity and texture to make sure you’re in the sweet spot.

Scott
 
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AL1

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Anyone tell me what ingots to press for full posterior e.max for shades A-1 to A-3
 
finnster68

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AL

As a rule of thumb i have been pressing with 1 shade lighter than the required shade.

IE for an A1 I would use probably a bleach 3 or 4. You could probably even use an MO ingot as well

A2 for an A3 and so on

The pressings seem to be a little low on value if you press an A2 for an A2 crown or A3 for A3.

Doesnt hurt even dropping back a couple of shades. Much easier to lower value than it is to try and raise it
 
finnster68

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If you meant what type of ingot ie LT or HT then i would say, if you know for sure the prepped tooth is a nice vital colour with no discloration, go for HT.

If you are unsure go with LT
 
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SSDS

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I am in Australia as well and I use speedvest from Argibond for all my pressing and PFM work and have no problems. Invest and set for 15 min, straight in to furnace at 850 and press 45 min later.
 
finnster68

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Hey SDSS

Whereabouts in Melb are you m8?

Im down on the Mornington Peninsula :)
 
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AL1

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I did 2 e.max molars in A-2 ingot cut back technique. They looked real nice in the lab. The Doc said they looked a little gray in the mouth
I am doing another molar for him, that I am going to full press and shade using a blt-2 ingot I think its called. I dont know if the prep is vital or not so I am going with the lt. Thanks for the input. Also I dont know what he is using to cement. I called Ivoclar and they said it could be the cement.
 
finnster68

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It is possible it is the cement he is using, probably worth checking exactly what he uses to cement them in with.

They can be conventionally cemented, however everything i have read and from info i have gathered from others is that bonding provides a much better result.

Seems they are a lot stronger if they are bonded with a self adhesive resin cement.

I suggest something like 3M Espe's RelyX Unicem to all my clients
 
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AL1

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Of course Ivoclar says you need their cement kit.
 
sixonice

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Anyone tell me what ingots to press for full posterior e.max for shades A-1 to A-3

Always press the LT ingots for full posteriors - always. The HT ingots are for inlays, onlays, veneers and SMALL full crowns such as lower centrals. The HT's are very translucent and will grab color like crazy. Doing large full contour pressings can result in a low-value situation because of their translucent nature. Also stump die shades make or break an all ceramic case. If the prescribing dentist wont purchase the Natural Stump Guide, then at least have them give you a Vita color of the prep so you know what you are dealing with.
 
sixonice

sixonice

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Of course Ivoclar says you need their cement kit.

Dentists can conventionally cement or bond. Of course the company is going to promote their cements. The Multilink Automix has the highest bond strengths out of any, but the Rely X Unicem, Maxcem, Fuji 1 & Ketac cem also work fine. e.max should be etched at the lab before delivery for 20 seconds with a 5% hydrochloric acid etch. If using a higher concentration etch, cut the time in half.
 
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SSDS

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Hey Finnster,
I am in Port Melb, along the coast from you towards the city

ssds
 
finnster68

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Nice to see another Melbournian floating around these corridors :)
 
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